so i have the Trick Performance Products window switch. my car is a v6.

http://www.fjoracing.com/products/rp.../downloads.php

and the instructions arent very good/ i dont know what to put in for one of the steps.

it is step 1
(tach setup)
BC is the number of cylinders. this setting is used by the RPMWS to calculate the correct RPM.
00= individual coil per cylinder systems where the tach wire is connected to the coil.
01= coil packs that fire in pairs (waste spark systems) and the tach wire is connected to the coil.
02-12= cylinder combinations from 2 to 12 where the tach wire is connected to the tach from the engine electronic controller or distributor.


we, like some others, put the number of cylinders of the car, which is what we understood from that first instruction. apparently thats not right though.

does anyone have any idea what the right setting would be?


edit: here is the link for the instructions
http://www.fjoracing.com/products/rp...umentation.pdf

 

where do you have the signal wire connected to ?

 

i wired it into the white wire on the pcm, i forget what number it is though.

 

program to "04"

 

thank you, sir!

 

Son of a....I was at the track and couldnt get it to work last night.

If this was the problem I'll be very mad and very happy at the same tiem.

 

When you get the unit programmed, push button 1 and the box will show you the rpm it is seeing.
LS1 cars computers signal looks like a 4 cylinder that is why you put it on 04. If you tie into a coil trigger wire, then it is 00
Ricky

 

I installed one in a V6 Camaro not too long ago. It worked fine.
I used an individual coil to get the signal, but the way you wired it should work as well.

Did you use the tach feature to make sure it read the same as your cars tach? If they match then you know its right.

on a side note, do you have any pics of the nitrous install. I'd like to see how you did it.
Vinny

 

Where did you splice into to get the individual coil?

Putting it on "04" doesnt seem to be helping me.

 

Before you rewire!...

Start the car and hold down the button that displays RPM's. Hold the engine at 1,000 RPMS according to your real (in-car) tach, and see what the window switch reads.
If it reads 1,000 rpms, then your good to go.


If it reads 670RPMs then change it to 6 cyl. Or if it reads 1300RPM's then change it to 3 cyl.

BTW, I believe it was a black wire with a brown stripe off the coil harness. I had to unbolt the coils to get access to the wires.

 

Why would 670 be 6 cylinders?

Sorry if I'm not seeing why you're getting those numbers.

 

ok if you are currently set to 4 cyl and the signal is actally a 6cyl signal, then if you engine is at 1,000 rpms *4/6 =666RPMs

Likewise if you are currently set to 4 cyl and the signal is actally a 3cyl signal, then if you engine is at 1,000 rpms *4/3 =1333RPMs

Its real easy to figure out what the signal is with the tach feature of this window switch.

 

Ah I see I see....thanks

 

i dont know if you meant me, but i'll put some up anyways!

 

It looks like you are spraying a wet kit before the MAF.
Have you tried it yet?

 

yep, i am.

i have tried it, and it feels superb!

i barely ever spray, so im not too worried about the long term effects.

 

The maf isnt going to like that for long.

 

so i've heard. i know people who have put it in the same place as mine, and havent had any problems. its just a PITA drilling into the maf... and if i sell the car, i'll have to replace it, etc.

 

I have a customer that has a nozzle in the same place as yours, but he only sprays thheN20 side of it. (not the fuel) letting the MAF take care of the enrichment. He has been running it like that for a long time, but unfortunetly hasn't dyno'd it to see the A/F. But it sure pulls hard.

 

Yeah, dry kits are fine before the maf.