Hey guys, I've been planning on staying stock internal for a while, but I've decided that whether or not I get on the list this year, I would like to spray the car with a *conservative* 100 shot next March or April.

I don't want to go over a 100 dry shot ( NOS 5177 kit ), and I don't want to spray off the line or through the shifts, because I don't want to over-stress the trans or the diff.

Questions:

Would I be okay with my tune? I'm running a 12.8 AFR and 30* of timing. I was thinking that I could just run a timing tricker, and dial it back about 4*. I was also going to run a good octane booster ( 30 points ) during times that I spray. As far as I know, my fuel pump is just fine, and I was going to clean the injectors/replace the filter as well as check the pressure before I put the kit on the car.

To not spray through the shifts, I could just run an rpm switch, correct? I would use 5900 rpm for the upper setting, but what about the lower setting, considering that I have a 4000 stall?

I want to start the spray in second, so I would just hit the arming switch then, right?

What about purging? Would I need to purge with that small of a dry shot? I would be interested in purging for the intimidation factor if not.

Lastly, what gains do you guys think that I would honestly get if I sprayed as described?

Any help you nitrous gurus could provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for helping a nitrous n00b.

Allen

 

Thats my Take, with my limited experience.

You need to add TR-6's for plugs for your Nitrous Wish list.

 

Very informative, thank you. Thank you as well for not saying "Well why in the hell don't you just get a wet kit?" - I get that from everyone else around here.

My next question was going to be about the plugs. There is a local dyno where I can make a few pulls to see the AFR on the spray.

 

My opinion varies from some of those around but I just wanna through it out there...I dont have a window switch I am running a 100 wet shot and have ran close to 20 bottles at 114K nothing touched as far as the motor trans rear etc...so the window switch at a 100hp level in my eyes is optional...however anything above 100hp its a must have...also as was stated tr-6s I gap mine at about .32-.34. I would also skip the idea of not spraying till second with your gears and a good set of rear tires that thing will be a 60ft monster on the bottle. Also my opinion octane booster wouldn't be needed and to me if your nervous about it run a race gas/ pump gas mix personally I am more leary about octane boosters than I probably should be but I know race gas is safer than a mix

 

I'm not wanting to spray in first to not overstress my STOCK transmission and STOCK rear-end. Not saying that they wouldn't hold, but that's a risk I don't want to take. The car already gets out of the hole just fine. I'm really just looking to boost up my trap speed.

It's harder to get the non-leaded race gas around here, I'd rather just get some good octane booster at a discount, it would add 3 octane points, that'd be just fine with me.

 

What do you guys think about a small wet shot versus a small dry shot, say
75 dry vs 75 wet.

Which is "safer", and what are the pros/cons of both.

After browsing around this forum and the Dynotune website, I'm thinking that their price on the basic wet kit is really nice, and about $100 less than I could get the 5177 kit for.

Opinions, please.

 

I did both on my car in May.

Out of the box, Wet was easier to set up and tune. I told you about my Dry troubles and finding out that I did not have have the injectors to go beyond a 50 shot dry.

I think dry is safer but, you need to make sure that everything is up to speed (injectors, fuel pump), no worries of a stuck fuel noid with dry, but nozzle position relative to the MAF is fairly important.

Wet out of the box is easier to tune (Nitro Dave's Plate worked out of the box up to a 150 shot, where I was struggling to get more than 50 out of my dry...), change the fuel jet up or down to get the desired AFR and your done. The down side to wet is "puddling" in the intake or the possibility of a stuck fuel noid. The up side to wet is should you want to go to 150 its just a jetting change (fuel pump permitting), were with dry, you will likely need bigger injectors.

With the wet (and the dry), use a window switch and don't spray below 3000 RPM, use colder plugs, adjust timing as needed (if you have a tune that adv the timing, you may need to take it out), use a bottle heater to keep the bottle pressure within limits (950-1050) there should be no issues.

Dean and Dan @ DynoTune were a great help (I started with their base Dry Kit), I also got my Nitrous and WB gauges, Bottle Heater, Bottle opener, LC-1 Wideband from them.

 

By the way, on your octane boost question, 1 can (32oz) of Torco with a tank (17.75 gallon) of gas raises 91 octane to 94.13 octane. If you used 2 cans of Torco the octane would be 97.26 octane. I buy it 5 gallons at a time and it figures out to be $9 per can (can is a quart, by the way).