Bottle Heater?
Bottle pressure is the key to a well operating nitrous system.
My favorite is the 860 heater.
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...product_id=693
Dave
My favorite is the 860 heater.
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...product_id=693
Dave
My Fav and the best performing we are told!
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...p?idproduct=17
Currently on sale for $99 for LS1 tech - check out this link for more info!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-oxide/498149-dynotune-fully-automatic-adjustable-nitrous-bottle-warmer-kit-o-99-a.html
Dean
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...p?idproduct=17
Currently on sale for $99 for LS1 tech - check out this link for more info!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-oxide/498149-dynotune-fully-automatic-adjustable-nitrous-bottle-warmer-kit-o-99-a.html
Dean
Last edited by DynotuneN2O; Oct 25, 2006 at 12:25 PM.
DynoTune black heater here, used it a bunch this week in 40-50 degree weather here in New England, working great 
.
I like the 860 Performance one also, I may put one of those in my 73 Charger, I like the heater/bracket idea, one less thing to hook up when you put the bottle in.
. I like the 860 Performance one also, I may put one of those in my 73 Charger, I like the heater/bracket idea, one less thing to hook up when you put the bottle in.
Our Revolution Bottle Heater wraps all the way around the bottle leaving no open voids. More info:
http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/shop...cat=269&page=1
Thanks,
Matt
http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/shop...cat=269&page=1
Thanks,
Matt
Zex automatic. I've only had it for about 3 weeks and so far it's worked fine. I didn't have to put more sensors on the line either. I wanted to be able to heat the bottle without the valve being open (for the pressure sensor). I have a remote bottle opener and a bottle opener noid. When it's off, it's off. If one of my noids fail, there's a second noid AND the valve opener. I like backup systems.
Over the last 3 weeks, the car has been in temps from 53 deg. F. to 93 deg F and the bottle has stayed at 900. It's currently about 2/3 full.
Over the last 3 weeks, the car has been in temps from 53 deg. F. to 93 deg F and the bottle has stayed at 900. It's currently about 2/3 full.
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Originally Posted by kumar75150
I ordered a 860
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...p?idproduct=99
Dean
Originally Posted by DynotuneN2O
Currently on sale for $99 for LS1 tech - check out this link for more info!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=498149
Dean
mmhmmm got that one!
I chose the NX standard heater for it's amp draw, running two heaters to heat up two 15lb bottles, and this takes some amperage. The NX is 240watts, and the other wrap arounds are 300watts. IIRC, the 860 is 280watt? Something to keep in mind, as a dead battery at the drags is no fun. Say, you want your motor to cool down, and your fan is running then you need to turn your b/heater, well it can take no time to drain a questionable battery, and even a good one. I also choose to heat mine manually, as the automatic transducers never keep pressure where I want it, and have used several of them. Just some things to think about.
Robert
Robert
I have the 860 heater/bracket and I really like it because All I have to do is hook the bottle to the bracket and the bracket is already the heater so I'm good to go!
Its really easy to deal with. I put the bottle on like a normal bracket and turn on the heater. It heats the bottle pretty fast too! I went from 700 psi to 1200psi in like 30 minutes. Not to bad if you ask me.
Its really easy to deal with. I put the bottle on like a normal bracket and turn on the heater. It heats the bottle pretty fast too! I went from 700 psi to 1200psi in like 30 minutes. Not to bad if you ask me.
Originally Posted by Robert56@NitrousDirect
I chose the NX standard heater for it's amp draw, running two heaters to heat up two 15lb bottles, and this takes some amperage. The NX is 240watts, and the other wrap arounds are 300watts. IIRC, the 860 is 280watt? Something to keep in mind, as a dead battery at the drags is no fun. Say, you want your motor to cool down, and your fan is running then you need to turn your b/heater, well it can take no time to drain a questionable battery, and even a good one. I also choose to heat mine manually, as the automatic transducers never keep pressure where I want it, and have used several of them. Just some things to think about.
Robert
Robert
The higher wattage means the bottle warms that much faster. Yes the draw is higher but for a shorter period of time. You need to try a Dynotune pressure transducer - set it to the pressure you like when it drops approx 50 psi it kicks on - back to temp - it shuts off. The NX one, correct me if I am wrong has no adjustment, when it gets to 1050 it shuts off, then it waits till it drops 150PSI before it kicks back on. Just my thoughts..Dean
Originally Posted by DynotuneN2O
Robert time to purchase some more Dynotune products The higher wattage means the bottle warms that much faster. Yes the draw is higher but for a shorter period of time. You need to try a Dynotune pressure transducer - set it to the pressure you like when it drops approx 50 psi it kicks on - back to temp - it shuts off. The NX one, correct me if I am wrong has no adjustment, when it gets to 1050 it shuts off, then it waits till it drops 150PSI before it kicks back on. Just my thoughts..
Dean
The higher wattage means the bottle warms that much faster. Yes the draw is higher but for a shorter period of time. You need to try a Dynotune pressure transducer - set it to the pressure you like when it drops approx 50 psi it kicks on - back to temp - it shuts off. The NX one, correct me if I am wrong has no adjustment, when it gets to 1050 it shuts off, then it waits till it drops 150PSI before it kicks back on. Just my thoughts..Dean
Robert
