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The importance of heating a bottle properly

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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by red91z
The key is to get the bottle warm throughout. Take you a bottle and heat it up a bit. Then turn it upside down a few times an the pressure will drop. The heat takes a while to transfer throughout the contents.
Thanks! Very useful infso!! Sure beats opening the line to get a true pressure reading.
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Todd157k
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And makes Tasty Dinner
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Johnny5
The way I have my heater rigged to a pressure switch it won't heat anything until you open the valve. It seems to work OK.
Yeah I need to empty my bottle and do this. The guy I got my nitrous kit from (used) had the pressure switch for the heater tapped in after the valve. So the valve has to be open for the heater to shut off. On my list of things to correct.
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by sleeperstyle
get a bottle blanket, or be cheap like me and wrap a jacket around the bottle/heater. 1/2 hour and i see 1000 psi (unless it is really cold out) and it stays up pretty good during a run. doesn't drop below 900. you gotta keep it insulated, and the blanket/ jacket (haha) keeps the heat in so the ambient air doesn't affect it.
Got a bottle blanket, but I might get something to put under the bottle brackets to help insulate it where the blanket dosent cover. And yep I used an old jacket too before I got my embroidered bottle blanket.
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by WS6HUMMER
Thanks! Very useful infso!! Sure beats opening the line to get a true pressure reading.
You should have your bottle open when heating, otherwise, the minute you open it you are loosing pressure, and then your allready down a tad from optimum pressure.
Robert
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Robert56@NitrousDirect
You should have your bottle open when heating, otherwise, the minute you open it you are loosing pressure, and then your allready down a tad from optimum pressure.
Robert
OK, I appreciate the advice. I'll try it your way next time I'm at the track, thanks Robert!
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 12:09 PM
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I really don't think filling a standard feed line is going to cause that much pressure drop. A standard feed line a 14' -4 line would have about 5.27 cu/in of capacity, and a 10lb bottle is 410 cu/in. That is a very small overall percent of the bottles volume. So I don't think there would be any significant pressure drop.
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by srsnow
I really don't think filling a standard feed line is going to cause that much pressure drop. A standard feed line a 14' -4 line would have about 5.27 cu/in of capacity, and a 10lb bottle is 410 cu/in. That is a very small overall percent of the bottles volume. So I don't think there would be any significant pressure drop.
This may be true. However, try purging your line at the end of the day after you close your bottle. You'll see quite a bit of spray. Now when purging my b/press down and see a drop on my gauge, I often do not release the amount that clearing the line does. So I see it as one more small item in the quest to run consistant in the bracket racing world. If your just messing around with t/t then it prob doesn't matter, but hey, I am the **** type.
Robert
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by srsnow
I really don't think filling a standard feed line is going to cause that much pressure drop. A standard feed line a 14' -4 line would have about 5.27 cu/in of capacity, and a 10lb bottle is 410 cu/in. That is a very small overall percent of the bottles volume. So I don't think there would be any significant pressure drop.
I loose 100 PSI when I crack open the bottle.
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by WS6HUMMER
I learned a little about this over the weekend. I would heat up the bottle with my CFN heater to 1100 psi and when I'd crack the bottle valve I'd loose 100 psi through the line. Well at the end of the track on my first nitrous pass ever my bottle pressure would read 800psi. The second time I took a little more time heating it up and got it up to 1200 and let it sit for a while and drop a little to 1150, well at the end of that run it read 900 psi.

That night I asked a friend there with me that was running a 3 stage 350 shot on his car (credibility) about what was happening and he told me that my bottle if heated real quick would loose pressure fast down the track. If it was heated properly (not too fast) it would only drop about 25 psi.

I think I might join the blow torch crowd and use one of those to heat my bottle from now on. I have to run my car to keep the battery good and hot while running my electric bottle heater. Anyone got any words of wisdom?
The Nitrous itself needs to heat soak. I tend to place the whole bottle under some hot water from the bath tub or kitchen sink, then wrap it in a towle and the turn it up side down to distibute the heat over the intire bottle.
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Oatmeal
The Nitrous itself needs to heat soak. I tend to place the whole bottle under some hot water from the bath tub or kitchen sink, then wrap it in a towle and the turn it up side down to distibute the heat over the intire bottle.
Good method! There's so much about these little things I didnt know.
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Old Nov 2, 2006 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by WS6HUMMER
Good method! There's so much about these little things I didnt know.
Wow... ahahaha I always thought it was as easy as... Turn the bottle warmer on, wait 30 minutes, and you're on your way. haha

I see conflcting opinions about having the Bottle open while heating as to heating while bottle is closed. What's the difference actually? If the pressure is there before or after...?
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Old Nov 2, 2006 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by WS6HUMMER
Is'nt that dangerous for your nitrous line? Wouldnt the heat from the engine raise the pressure in that part of the line and risk blowing the line? I have to run my car to keep the battery up, remember,
No, those lines are made to handle high pressure.
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Old Nov 2, 2006 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert56@NitrousDirect
I allways open my bottles before I turn on the heaters, then no pressure lose from main line filling.
Robert
I just leave the bottle open all the time.
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Old Nov 2, 2006 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ChrisUlrich
Wow... ahahaha I always thought it was as easy as... Turn the bottle warmer on, wait 30 minutes, and you're on your way. haha

I see conflcting opinions about having the Bottle open while heating as to heating while bottle is closed. What's the difference actually? If the pressure is there before or after...?
The difference is the fact that heating with bottle closed, after heating the transducer shuts the heater off. Then you open your bottle and fill the line, bingo, you just lost 100psi of pressure, but not enough to turn heater back on. Whereas, if you would have opened your line before heating, then when heater turns off your entire system is up to optimum pressure, just the way you want it. This can help you run more consistant times.
Robert
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Old Nov 2, 2006 | 10:39 PM
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I thaught it was bad to heat your bottle without the valve open? Also, what is the advantage of a bottle jacket if you have a bottle heater? Does it make a difference? Thanks.
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Old Nov 2, 2006 | 10:46 PM
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The bottle jacket will help stabilize the temp. Won't cool down as fast. I've noticed that it also doesn't heat up as much when the car is left sitting in the sun all day.
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Old Nov 3, 2006 | 01:49 AM
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This helps with the problem.

http://www.nanonitrous.com/
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Old Nov 3, 2006 | 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Robert56@NitrousDirect
The difference is the fact that heating with bottle closed, after heating the transducer shuts the heater off. Then you open your bottle and fill the line, bingo, you just lost 100psi of pressure, but not enough to turn heater back on. Whereas, if you would have opened your line before heating, then when heater turns off your entire system is up to optimum pressure, just the way you want it. This can help you run more consistant times.
Robert
I tried to PM this but it's filled... :-/

"So the bottle warmer has a timer on it almost? Or a threshold? Once it gets to a certain temp or pressure it won't turn on until a certain point?

I am thinking about getting a nitrous system within the next 3-4 months so I am trying to get all my research done now. Thanks in advance"
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Old Nov 3, 2006 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Robert56@NitrousDirect
The difference is the fact that heating with bottle closed, after heating the transducer shuts the heater off. Then you open your bottle and fill the line, bingo, you just lost 100psi of pressure, but not enough to turn heater back on. Whereas, if you would have opened your line before heating, then when heater turns off your entire system is up to optimum pressure, just the way you want it. This can help you run more consistant times.
Robert
I disagree with this statement. I just don't see a feed line being able to hold enough volume to be able to cause a significant pressure drop. You may see the needle on the gauge fluctuate and then recover as soon as the line is filled. But I don't believe there will be a permanent drop in pressure. People don't drop 100psi when they make a full pass and that is going to consume a lot more nitrous than filling a line. A very common practice in many classes of racing where nitrous is used is to heat the bottle out side the car and then put the bottle in the car. And these guys are filling a -6 line which will have about twice the volume of a -4. Sometimes even two -6 lines and they are not seeing enough of a pressure drop to warrant changing the way they do things. I just don't feel that there is going to be a measurable difference in heating the bottle open or closed.
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