The importance of heating a bottle properly
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From: Alexandria La.
The importance of heating a bottle properly I learned a little about this over the weekend. I would heat up the bottle with my CFN heater to 1100 psi and when I'd crack the bottle valve I'd loose 100 psi through the line. Well at the end of the track on my first nitrous pass ever my bottle pressure would read 800psi. The second time I took a little more time heating it up and got it up to 1200 and let it sit for a while and drop a little to 1150, well at the end of that run it read 900 psi.
That night I asked a friend there with me that was running a 3 stage 350 shot on his car (credibility) about what was happening and he told me that my bottle if heated real quick would loose pressure fast down the track. If it was heated properly (not too fast) it would only drop about 25 psi.
I think I might join the blow torch crowd and use one of those to heat my bottle from now on. I have to run my car to keep the battery good and hot while running my electric bottle heater. Anyone got any words of wisdom?
That night I asked a friend there with me that was running a 3 stage 350 shot on his car (credibility) about what was happening and he told me that my bottle if heated real quick would loose pressure fast down the track. If it was heated properly (not too fast) it would only drop about 25 psi.
I think I might join the blow torch crowd and use one of those to heat my bottle from now on. I have to run my car to keep the battery good and hot while running my electric bottle heater. Anyone got any words of wisdom?
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From: Huntington Beach CA
Do not use a blow torch that can weaken the bottle and lead to a failure. Over 350 degrees the bottle needs to be condemned per 49 CFR 180.205 (i) (viii). The pressure drop isn't caused by heating the bottle too fast it is caused by starting with a higher pressure. The higher the starting pressure the faster the pressure will drop.
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From: Alexandria La.
Originally Posted by srsnow
Do not use a blow torch that can weaken the bottle and lead to a failure. Over 350 degrees the bottle needs to be condemned per 49 CFR 180.205 (i) (viii). The pressure drop isn't caused by heating the bottle too fast it is caused by starting with a higher pressure. The higher the starting pressure the faster the pressure will drop.
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From: Illinois, RT 66 dragway area
We use a 120V heater, than you can just plug into generator. I have a battery and inverter in the golf cart for long delays. I just saw a dual system (110V & 12V) this week, haven't looked into it yet, but that might be something I buy next if it works with 16V. The air or water heater box's are cool also, I don't have one, but friends do, and they love them.
I agree on the heated boxes being good to invest in if you spend time at the track.
There are a few people around here with them. I know theirs can fit 2 bottles in the box & they can either be 10 or 15lbs in size. They seem to be very effictive at keeping the bottles nice & warm while waiting between races.
Then while in stageing lanes you could just use the regular bottle heater in the car to maintain the pressure w/o it having to be on constantly.
There are a few people around here with them. I know theirs can fit 2 bottles in the box & they can either be 10 or 15lbs in size. They seem to be very effictive at keeping the bottles nice & warm while waiting between races.
Then while in stageing lanes you could just use the regular bottle heater in the car to maintain the pressure w/o it having to be on constantly.
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From: Alexandria La.
Originally Posted by Robert56@NitrousDirect
I allways open my bottles before I turn on the heaters, then no pressure lose from main line filling.
Robert
Robert
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From: Alexandria La.
Originally Posted by BIG_MIKE2005
I agree on the heated boxes being good to invest in if you spend time at the track.
There are a few people around here with them. I know theirs can fit 2 bottles in the box & they can either be 10 or 15lbs in size. They seem to be very effictive at keeping the bottles nice & warm while waiting between races.
Then while in stageing lanes you could just use the regular bottle heater in the car to maintain the pressure w/o it having to be on constantly.
There are a few people around here with them. I know theirs can fit 2 bottles in the box & they can either be 10 or 15lbs in size. They seem to be very effictive at keeping the bottles nice & warm while waiting between races.
Then while in stageing lanes you could just use the regular bottle heater in the car to maintain the pressure w/o it having to be on constantly.
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From: Alexandria La.
Originally Posted by mrdragster1970
We use a 120V heater, than you can just plug into generator. I have a battery and inverter in the golf cart for long delays. I just saw a dual system (110V & 12V) this week, haven't looked into it yet, but that might be something I buy next if it works with 16V. The air or water heater box's are cool also, I don't have one, but friends do, and they love them.
Originally Posted by WS6HUMMER
I think I might join the blow torch crowd and use one of those to heat my bottle from now on.
Originally Posted by WS6HUMMER
I've used a big aluminum pot on my stove with water when testing my stuff close to my house. This made the nitrous hit harder on my car than I ever have experienced. Might bring my propane fish cooker and my Crawfish boiling pot to the track next time!
Small Thermal Nucular Device takes out Neighborhood in Alexandria, LA.
And makes Tasty Dinner
Originally Posted by WS6HUMMER
Is'nt that dangerous for your nitrous line? Wouldnt the heat from the engine raise the pressure in that part of the line and risk blowing the line? I have to run my car to keep the battery up, remember,
The key is to get the bottle warm throughout. Take you a bottle and heat it up a bit. Then turn it upside down a few times an the pressure will drop. The heat takes a while to transfer throughout the contents.
get a bottle blanket, or be cheap like me and wrap a jacket around the bottle/heater. 1/2 hour and i see 1000 psi (unless it is really cold out) and it stays up pretty good during a run. doesn't drop below 900. you gotta keep it insulated, and the blanket/ jacket (haha) keeps the heat in so the ambient air doesn't affect it.
Originally Posted by WS6HUMMER
Is'nt that dangerous for your nitrous line? Wouldnt the heat from the engine raise the pressure in that part of the line and risk blowing the line? I have to run my car to keep the battery up, remember,
Originally Posted by terry s
Any pressure increase from engine heat on the nitrous line will be minimal as long as the bottle valve is open because the puessure will equalize back to the bottle.
Robert
Originally Posted by Robert56@NitrousDirect
Actually the engine heat can cause the nitrous to turn to vapor. That's what happens when it get's to hot. One of the reasons for a purge. At 95* a bottle will be about 1050/1100psi, if you check the heat in the engine bay you'll see it's a much higher temp, and only causes a local problem concerning the line. I have mine wrapped to help with the heat issue.
Robert
Robert