The importance of heating a bottle properly

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Nov 3, 2006 | 02:05 PM

#41

Robert56

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From: Tacoma, WA

Quote:

Originally Posted by skinnies

This helps with the problem.

http://www.nanonitrous.com/

Yes that will work but $$. Also, it's not NHRA approved, so most tracks if they catch on will not allow it.
Robert

Nov 3, 2006 | 02:11 PM

#42

Robert56

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From: Tacoma, WA

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisUlrich

I tried to PM this but it's filled... :-/

"So the bottle warmer has a timer on it almost? Or a threshold? Once it gets to a certain temp or pressure it won't turn on until a certain point?

I am thinking about getting a nitrous system within the next 3-4 months so I am trying to get all my research done now. Thanks in advance"

Not a timer but a pressure transducer (there are also temp transducers). Meaning bottle will start to heat once under the bottom thresh hold. So, say your heater is set for a 1000psi bottle pressure. You activate your heater, pressure is low so heater starts, then shuts off automatically when you reach 1050psi. After this, it will only come back on after hitting the low turn psi which is usually about 150psi. So, now you need to have pressure below 900psi to have heater turn back on. So the point that trying to be made is heating tank then opening valve allows some pressure to fall, but not enough for heater to come back on.
Robert

Nov 3, 2006 | 02:19 PM

#43

Robert56

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From: Tacoma, WA

Quote:

Originally Posted by srsnow

I disagree with this statement. I just don't see a feed line being able to hold enough volume to be able to cause a significant pressure drop. You may see the needle on the gauge fluctuate and then recover as soon as the line is filled. But I don't believe there will be a permanent drop in pressure. People don't drop 100psi when they make a full pass and that is going to consume a lot more nitrous than filling a line. A very common practice in many classes of racing where nitrous is used is to heat the bottle out side the car and then put the bottle in the car. And these guys are filling a -6 line which will have about twice the volume of a -4. Sometimes even two -6 lines and they are not seeing enough of a pressure drop to warrant changing the way they do things. I just don't feel that there is going to be a measurable difference in heating the bottle open or closed.

I am not making my claims on speculation, but rather real world use. I see a drop in my pressure when I open my line after heating, not sure if it is 100psi (used the claim by WS6HUMMER) but a drop for sure. Furthermore, I absolutely with out a shadow of doubt loose 100psi or more on each run. I have over 200 passes on this car. This is the reason I chose not to use any transducer (press based or temp based) because after each run I would often be caught between the on/off of the transducer and then next pass I would be at disadvantage (bracket racing) because of lower bottle pressure (remember I run dry hits, so i don't end up with more power from being lean, but rather less power from less nitrous, either way your runs will not be consistant the wet may be tad faster and the dry a tad slower). You are entitled to your opinions for sure, but I base my info on real world facts, any way not a problem.

Robert

Nov 3, 2006 | 02:32 PM

#44

V6 Bird

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From: Grand Prairie, TX

Quote:

Originally Posted by WS6HUMMER

Is'nt that dangerous for your nitrous line? Wouldnt the heat from the engine raise the pressure in that part of the line and risk blowing the line? I have to run my car to keep the battery up, remember,

LMFAO...Where do you guys come up with these out of this world ideas and issues?

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