I went to the dyno and found a problem. Help!
I went to the dyno and found a problem. Help! Hey guys, please check out my dyno thread and see if you can help me with this nitrous problem.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/606151-ls2-402-w-afr-225-s-w-w-o-spray.html
Thanks!!!!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/606151-ls2-402-w-afr-225-s-w-w-o-spray.html
Thanks!!!!
NA:
So I finally got everything to where I felt comfortable getting some dyno pulls made. We played with fuel and spark and the numbers only varied by about 5 horse NA. I was pleased with the NA results. Got it into the 500rwhp club finally.
150 NX Wet Shot:
So my buddy with the dyno shop says, "Let's see what it will do on the spray." I was not crazy about the idea of spraying on the dyno but since it is only a 150 shot, and I had 200 and 250 jets that I was planning on putting in soon, I figured what the hell! Boy am I glad that I did. I had no idea of the problems that I was having on the spray. You will see that on the bottle, my power peaks at about 5K RPM and by the time I get to 6K RPM, it's almost like I'm not spraying anymore. The bottle is full. The A/F is not really jumping around too much. It's like the solonoids are closing together gradually. Steve (the dyno guy) told me that he thinks that it could be an ignition problem (maybe plugs) but I don't think so. It is too uniform on it's downward curve. I did notice while driving home in the dark that at WOT (no juice) right at about 5K RPM, my headlights dime and the voltage gauge drops a bit all the way to redline. I don't think that this is normal. If this is the case, could the lower voltage be causing my solonoids to slowly close? The kit is very simple in it's current state. It consists of the bottle, the line, 2 solonoids (n2o and fuel), one nozzle, and a manual WOT switch. That's it. No window switch, no fuel pressure switch no electronic controllers of any kind. PLEASE HELP.
__________________
So I finally got everything to where I felt comfortable getting some dyno pulls made. We played with fuel and spark and the numbers only varied by about 5 horse NA. I was pleased with the NA results. Got it into the 500rwhp club finally.
150 NX Wet Shot:
So my buddy with the dyno shop says, "Let's see what it will do on the spray." I was not crazy about the idea of spraying on the dyno but since it is only a 150 shot, and I had 200 and 250 jets that I was planning on putting in soon, I figured what the hell! Boy am I glad that I did. I had no idea of the problems that I was having on the spray. You will see that on the bottle, my power peaks at about 5K RPM and by the time I get to 6K RPM, it's almost like I'm not spraying anymore. The bottle is full. The A/F is not really jumping around too much. It's like the solonoids are closing together gradually. Steve (the dyno guy) told me that he thinks that it could be an ignition problem (maybe plugs) but I don't think so. It is too uniform on it's downward curve. I did notice while driving home in the dark that at WOT (no juice) right at about 5K RPM, my headlights dime and the voltage gauge drops a bit all the way to redline. I don't think that this is normal. If this is the case, could the lower voltage be causing my solonoids to slowly close? The kit is very simple in it's current state. It consists of the bottle, the line, 2 solonoids (n2o and fuel), one nozzle, and a manual WOT switch. That's it. No window switch, no fuel pressure switch no electronic controllers of any kind. PLEASE HELP.
__________________
It looks to me like you started spraying at about 3500rpm and it takes a bit for power to come on rather that an instant torque spike (like it was progressed). You were also lean is this area which should/would normally give additionaly to the intial torque spike. So whats wrong, hmmm... I would get that voltage issue figured out. I know i was having some voltage drop from my bottle heaters, but otherwise it seemed fine, until battery started going dead, it was a bad battery, so you may have an issue like that and/or charging system. Check your noids with good voltage and just make sure they are opening correctly, make sure you have correct jets, correct fuel pressure and supply, check plugs, bottle weight/pressure. Then give it another go. Keep us informed.
Robert
Robert
Originally Posted by Robert56@NitrousDirect
It looks to me like you started spraying at about 3500rpm and it takes a bit for power to come on rather that an instant torque spike (like it was progressed). You were also lean is this area which should/would normally give additionaly to the intial torque spike. So whats wrong, hmmm... I would get that voltage issue figured out. I know i was having some voltage drop from my bottle heaters, but otherwise it seemed fine, until battery started going dead, it was a bad battery, so you may have an issue like that and/or charging system. Check your noids with good voltage and just make sure they are opening correctly, make sure you have correct jets, correct fuel pressure and supply, check plugs, bottle weight/pressure. Then give it another go. Keep us informed.
Robert
Robert
Trending Topics
If you have a volt meter you can check the voltage output right off the alternator and see what it is doing, at idle and at increased RPMS . You should be geting something in the nieghborhood of around 13.4 volts. My guess is your charging system is not performing as it should , which in turn is causing your problems.Good luck!
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Originally Posted by Zitty'sZ
If you have a volt meter you can check the voltage output right off the alternator and see what it is doing, at idle and at increased RPMS . You should be geting something in the nieghborhood of around 13.4 volts. My guess is your charging system is not performing as it should , which in turn is causing your problems.Good luck!
Robert
Originally Posted by Robert56@NitrousDirect
Here was my problem. the charging system was working fine. However, with a bad battery trying to get it's charge at all times, the alt couldn't put out enough to supply needed batt charge and run all the acc. Once I put the new red top in, batt voltage stays stable even when both heaters and the fans are on, no more voltage drop like before. Volt gauge now reads mid 13's rather than low 11's.
Robert
Robert
Well, I been trying to figure out my problem still. I was convinced that it was a voltage problem after doing some scanning. I bought a yellow top Optima (Deep Cycle) and a brand new (not rebuilt) alternator and I still have the same voltage drop under full throttle and it is worse with the nitrous. I took off all of my grounds except the ones that are attached to the back of the heads and cleaned them and the contact surfaces with a wire brush. I checked the ones of the back of the heads and they are tight. The surface is clean as I just installed them in January. Would belt slip cause this problem? I don't have an underdrive pulley so stuff is spinning at full speed. Not sure what else it could possibly be. 
There are grounds all over. There is a write up on this at vette forum, Bill Curlee did it. You would not believe how bad these grounds can become, and the problems they cause. Did you check the ground trminals on top of frame just foward of alt, actully one on each side. it's a grouping of grounds and gets corroded. you really need a manual to find all these ground junctions.
Robert
Robert
try a tensioner man..its a great piece to have and its cured alot of funky stuff on several cars I have done. No garuntee...but its not too expensive....or rig up a strap real quick to put extra tension on the tensioner.
Got it worked out. I think that it is normal for the voltage to drop under the heavy load. I have not verified it on another car. Perhaps someone could. Anyway, it was something very obvious. It was my plugs. When I originally put the motor together I had a different cam in there. That cam was installed a tooth out and I had some pretty severe detonation. I could have sworn that when I switched the cam I switched the plugs from the TR55i's to the TR6's. Well, apparently, I didnt. Soooooo we pulled a plug and saw a 57 gap with a severly pitted plug. It seems that I was blowing out the spark at 5300RPM on the nitrous and the reason that the fuel was leaning out rather than getting richer is that I wasn't burning the fuel, It was coming out raw thru the tail pipes and thus not reading on the wideband.
Thanks for the help guys.
Thanks for the help guys.