LS2 402 w/ AFR 225's w/ & w/o Spray
11-09-2006, 06:19 PM
#1
LS2 402 w/ AFR 225's w/ & w/o Spray NA:
So I finally got everything to where I felt comfortable getting some dyno pulls made. We played with fuel and spark and the numbers only varied by about 5 horse NA. I was pleased with the NA results. Got it into the 500rwhp club finally.
150 NX Wet Shot:
So my buddy with the dyno shop says, "Let's see what it will do on the spray." I was not crazy about the idea of spraying on the dyno but since it is only a 150 shot, and I had 200 and 250 jets that I was planning on putting in soon, I figured what the hell! Boy am I glad that I did. I had no idea of the problems that I was having on the spray. You will see that on the bottle, my power peaks at about 5K RPM and by the time I get to 6K RPM, it's almost like I'm not spraying anymore. The bottle is full. The A/F is not really jumping around too much. It's like the solonoids are closing together gradually. Steve (the dyno guy) told me that he thinks that it could be an ignition problem (maybe plugs) but I don't think so. It is too uniform on it's downward curve. I did notice while driving home in the dark that at WOT (no juice) right at about 5K RPM, my headlights dime and the voltage gauge drops a bit all the way to redline. I don't think that this is normal. If this is the case, could the lower voltage be causing my solonoids to slowly close? The kit is very simple in it's current state. It consists of the bottle, the line, 2 solonoids (n2o and fuel), one nozzle, and a manual WOT switch. That's it. No window switch, no fuel pressure switch no electronic controllers of any kind. PLEASE HELP.
So I finally got everything to where I felt comfortable getting some dyno pulls made. We played with fuel and spark and the numbers only varied by about 5 horse NA. I was pleased with the NA results. Got it into the 500rwhp club finally.
150 NX Wet Shot:
So my buddy with the dyno shop says, "Let's see what it will do on the spray." I was not crazy about the idea of spraying on the dyno but since it is only a 150 shot, and I had 200 and 250 jets that I was planning on putting in soon, I figured what the hell! Boy am I glad that I did. I had no idea of the problems that I was having on the spray. You will see that on the bottle, my power peaks at about 5K RPM and by the time I get to 6K RPM, it's almost like I'm not spraying anymore. The bottle is full. The A/F is not really jumping around too much. It's like the solonoids are closing together gradually. Steve (the dyno guy) told me that he thinks that it could be an ignition problem (maybe plugs) but I don't think so. It is too uniform on it's downward curve. I did notice while driving home in the dark that at WOT (no juice) right at about 5K RPM, my headlights dime and the voltage gauge drops a bit all the way to redline. I don't think that this is normal. If this is the case, could the lower voltage be causing my solonoids to slowly close? The kit is very simple in it's current state. It consists of the bottle, the line, 2 solonoids (n2o and fuel), one nozzle, and a manual WOT switch. That's it. No window switch, no fuel pressure switch no electronic controllers of any kind. PLEASE HELP.
11-09-2006, 09:42 PM
#5
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Sounds like a short somewhere in the system....and yes, low votage could certainly close the solenoids not to mention compromise your ignition system.... You have to get to the bottom of that problem....
11-10-2006, 02:41 AM
#7
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check your belts...and tensioner. See if you have black belt dust everywhere. I have seen several cars freak out on spray when belt slippage occcurs. If you dont have a Katech tensioner you really need one.
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11-10-2006, 06:50 AM
#8
Originally Posted by oange ss
try another ground
11-10-2006, 06:53 AM
#9
Originally Posted by 1BADAIR
what was the bottle pressure like before and after?
how full?
my bottle was over filled once. the warmer only took about 2 minutes to get to the pressure but everything was still very cold so when I sprayed it the pressure would drop very fast
how full?
my bottle was over filled once. the warmer only took about 2 minutes to get to the pressure but everything was still very cold so when I sprayed it the pressure would drop very fast
11-10-2006, 06:59 AM
#11
Originally Posted by cantdrv65
Sounds like a short somewhere in the system....and yes, low votage could certainly close the solenoids not to mention compromise your ignition system.... You have to get to the bottom of that problem....
System? You mean nitrous system or electrical system? Is there some otrher way to check for a short besides scanning voltage? I will setup a histogram to show voltage vs rpm.
11-10-2006, 07:01 AM
#12
Originally Posted by daniel6718
didnt get rich so dont think the bottle is empty...or losing too much psi
any check engine codes? the problem isnt with the n20, because it did the exact same thing on motor...maybe rockers springs...tune...
any check engine codes? the problem isnt with the n20, because it did the exact same thing on motor...maybe rockers springs...tune...
It didn't do the same thing on motor from what I saw. Could you explain the motor theory? The curve looks good to me.
11-10-2006, 07:05 AM
#13
Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
check your belts...and tensioner. See if you have black belt dust everywhere. I have seen several cars freak out on spray when belt slippage occcurs. If you dont have a Katech tensioner you really need one.
11-10-2006, 07:37 AM
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well when you get it ironed out it looks like it will be a beast on the bottle.i was hoping your tq would be alittle higher but with 500 rw i'm sure it feels great.congratulations.
11-10-2006, 08:47 AM
#17
Originally Posted by 860 Performance
Not related to your voltage issue, but do you have a fuel pressure safety switch? That would make a graph look like that.
11-10-2006, 10:05 AM
#19
Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
... I suppose that the belt slipping on the alternator could drop voltage but shouldn't the battery be able to hold up the voltage for a few seconds. Hmmmm. Now that I think about it, when I key on the ignition without turning it over, my voltage gauge only see about 11 volts on the (stock) guage.
Low voltage is one of two things...
1) battery is dieing
2) current draw.
As for keeping up while running.. it should but 13.2v charging and 11v static is a 20% difference.
11-10-2006, 10:48 AM
#20
Originally Posted by Todd157k
What does it read while running? (measure it with a DVM)
Low voltage is one of two things...
1) battery is dieing
2) current draw.
As for keeping up while running.. it should but 13.2v charging and 11v static is a 20% difference.
Low voltage is one of two things...
1) battery is dieing
2) current draw.
As for keeping up while running.. it should but 13.2v charging and 11v static is a 20% difference.