Progressive Control Question about Lean Condition...
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What's up guys. I've since gone to the darkside and sold the '02 SS for an '05 GTO, and am running a wet 150-shot on it with no other mods.
I just got the FJO Progressive controller installed and programmed it with a 3000rpm 50% to 4500rpm 100% ramp and shutoff at 6250rpm.
My question is (since I haven't made it up to the dyno yet for progressive control - the car IS tuned for the 150-shot): When the FJO is cycling the solenoids for the progressive part, will the car tend to run lean? Thinking about it, it just seems to me that if you cycle the opening and shutting of a small space with gas at 900psi, more will go through than a liquid (fuel) at 60psi... so more N2O than fuel and create a lean condition. But that's just my guess.
I'm just wondering if guys have similar setups that have been on the dyno and know if their a/f was lean during the progressive part. If yes, was it bad? If not, why wasn't it? (your guesstimation)
Thanks!
I just got the FJO Progressive controller installed and programmed it with a 3000rpm 50% to 4500rpm 100% ramp and shutoff at 6250rpm.
My question is (since I haven't made it up to the dyno yet for progressive control - the car IS tuned for the 150-shot): When the FJO is cycling the solenoids for the progressive part, will the car tend to run lean? Thinking about it, it just seems to me that if you cycle the opening and shutting of a small space with gas at 900psi, more will go through than a liquid (fuel) at 60psi... so more N2O than fuel and create a lean condition. But that's just my guess.
I'm just wondering if guys have similar setups that have been on the dyno and know if their a/f was lean during the progressive part. If yes, was it bad? If not, why wasn't it? (your guesstimation)
Thanks!
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I have used my progressor on several occasions when track conditions wouldn't hold spraying out of the hole - my wideband showed no lean conditions during the progression. However, if I were you, I would use the time based ramps instead of the rpm based - reason being, if you lose traction, rpms go up adding more nitrous and compounding the problem. I vary my starting percentage and time ramp depending on what the track will hold. As far as why it doesn't go lean - my theory would be that it is really no different than the ratio of fuel to nitrous that you get with the solenoids open - they will cycle against the pressure without a problem and the jets are what regulates the ratio (i.e. the pressure difference doesn't matter any more with them cycling than when they are full open). Make sense?
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Originally Posted by RealDealCamSS
What's up guys. I've since gone to the darkside and sold the '02 SS for an '05 GTO, and am running a wet 150-shot on it with no other mods.
I just got the FJO Progressive controller installed and programmed it with a 3000rpm 50% to 4500rpm 100% ramp and shutoff at 6250rpm.
My question is (since I haven't made it up to the dyno yet for progressive control - the car IS tuned for the 150-shot): When the FJO is cycling the solenoids for the progressive part, will the car tend to run lean? Thinking about it, it just seems to me that if you cycle the opening and shutting of a small space with gas at 900psi, more will go through than a liquid (fuel) at 60psi... so more N2O than fuel and create a lean condition. But that's just my guess.
I'm just wondering if guys have similar setups that have been on the dyno and know if their a/f was lean during the progressive part. If yes, was it bad? If not, why wasn't it? (your guesstimation)
Thanks!
I just got the FJO Progressive controller installed and programmed it with a 3000rpm 50% to 4500rpm 100% ramp and shutoff at 6250rpm.
My question is (since I haven't made it up to the dyno yet for progressive control - the car IS tuned for the 150-shot): When the FJO is cycling the solenoids for the progressive part, will the car tend to run lean? Thinking about it, it just seems to me that if you cycle the opening and shutting of a small space with gas at 900psi, more will go through than a liquid (fuel) at 60psi... so more N2O than fuel and create a lean condition. But that's just my guess.
I'm just wondering if guys have similar setups that have been on the dyno and know if their a/f was lean during the progressive part. If yes, was it bad? If not, why wasn't it? (your guesstimation)
Thanks!
Ricky
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If anything you will run rich. Since the fuel solenoid usually has a larger orifice and you are pulsing the solenoids at the same rate the fuel side can flow more. Some controlers like the NOS 15835B had a fuel offset switch to help if this became an issue on a paticular tune up.
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Im not sure on this but I dont think that the noid is actually closed and opened when its on the progressive controller i think its held 70% of the way open, not all the way open 70% of the time and all the way closed 30% of the time. I think its like an injector its held open a certain percentage of the way to regualte flow so there isnt a rapid opening and shutting.
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Originally Posted by 98redorangeta
Im not sure on this but I dont think that the noid is actually closed and opened when its on the progressive controller i think its held 70% of the way open, not all the way open 70% of the time and all the way closed 30% of the time. I think its like an injector its held open a certain percentage of the way to regualte flow so there isnt a rapid opening and shutting.
Robert
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dont mean to hijack this thread ,but was just wondering with a progressive controller would the noids wear out quicker cuz its closing and opening(pulsing) is a safety kit a must with them?
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Originally Posted by john563
dont mean to hijack this thread ,but was just wondering with a progressive controller would the noids wear out quicker cuz its closing and opening(pulsing) is a safety kit a must with them?
Robert
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Originally Posted by john563
dont mean to hijack this thread ,but was just wondering with a progressive controller would the noids wear out quicker cuz its closing and opening(pulsing) is a safety kit a must with them?
This is why I suggest using good solenoids. I have set up my pesonal cars and many many many customers cars that have been faithfully using controllers for years on the same solenoids. The key is to just check them every now and then to make sure everything is going ok.
Dave
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Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
Like Robert said anything machanical or electrical has a chance of failure.
This is why I suggest using good solenoids. I have set up my pesonal cars and many many many customers cars that have been faithfully using controllers for years on the same solenoids. The key is to just check them every now and then to make sure everything is going ok.
Dave
This is why I suggest using good solenoids. I have set up my pesonal cars and many many many customers cars that have been faithfully using controllers for years on the same solenoids. The key is to just check them every now and then to make sure everything is going ok.
Dave