what to expect to pay for a nitrous system
11-21-2006, 04:35 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by Robert56@NitrousDirect
Nope, I was actually talking about our base kits, compared to the PRO Dry kit/PRO Wet kit. Checking the base kits, then it really is a bargain at $525 (Pro Dry). As for the 15lb bottle, yes as a generic kit it won't fit a lot of cars, however, the PRO Dry is speced for the LSX platform and the f-bods and Y-bods (15 fits both and offers 1/2 again as many refills and more runs that are consistant). Furthermore, you can replace the 15 with a 10lb and get credit towards other goodies. As for the dual nozzle, what we have been finding as a tuning aid the dual nozzles offer a much better distribution thus tuning in your a/f is a breeze. Dual nozzle also offers an easy upgrade to dual stage. The safety items are also included and needed imo. Lets not forget the mondo 400hp noid in the PRO Dry kit, whereas the base kits use the smaller weaker noids. Why guys think that scrimping on their nitrous kits is ok, is behond me. But, it seems these days that the cheaper the kit the happier the buyer? Like I said, You get what you pay for, and there is reasons why kits like NX are a little more $$. Like I said before, I have never once pushed our cheap kits (that I can remember), as I believe they are incomplete and a lesser quality of combined parts. Would they get the job done, yes they would, but so would the honda civic.
Robert
Robert
The main reason the NX kits are more money is they cost more to distribute. When you add a single level distributor and in some cases 2 levels. Who pays for that? The customer does. Customers are not looking for cheap, so we do not offer cheap. With the help of boards like this and individuals like yourself the customer is a lot more educated and is looking for the best value for the dollar. We do not include a 400HP solonoid in our kits as most of the kits we sell are typically 250HP and less. For every 100 kits we sell 99 of them are 250HP and less. So why charge the customer for something most dont need?
Just voicing my opinion - must be the holiday season!
Dean
11-21-2006, 04:53 PM
#22
Originally Posted by DynotuneN2O
Robert,
The main reason the NX kits are more money is they cost more to distribute. When you add a single level distributor and in some cases 2 levels. Who pays for that? The customer does. Customers are not looking for cheap, so we do not offer cheap. With the help of boards like this and individuals like yourself the customer is a lot more educated and is looking for the best value for the dollar. We do not include a 400HP solonoid in our kits as most of the kits we sell are typically 250HP and less. For every 100 kits we sell 99 of them are 250HP and less. So why charge the customer for something most dont need?
Just voicing my opinion - must be the holiday season!
Dean
The main reason the NX kits are more money is they cost more to distribute. When you add a single level distributor and in some cases 2 levels. Who pays for that? The customer does. Customers are not looking for cheap, so we do not offer cheap. With the help of boards like this and individuals like yourself the customer is a lot more educated and is looking for the best value for the dollar. We do not include a 400HP solonoid in our kits as most of the kits we sell are typically 250HP and less. For every 100 kits we sell 99 of them are 250HP and less. So why charge the customer for something most dont need?
Just voicing my opinion - must be the holiday season!
Dean
The reason we offer the 400hp noid is not so much because everyone is going to run a 400hp hit, but rather for the amp rating and coil build. What this means is a less chance of failure. The main reason a noid fails is contaminate based, and a higher amperage stronger noid has a less chance of sticking open or closed. I have had many of the smaller noids fail when two things happen, heat of engine bay, and excessive bottle pressure form rising interior temps. The reason they failed is because they are low amp weak noids that are built on the border line and any time you go past the set parameters, bingo-no workie. I have had this myself and seen this with a few brands of noids, actually 3 different brands come to mind in my own experiance. I now choose to run the NX Stage 6 Lightning noids for these very reasons. The PRo Noids are going on my 3rd stage wet. By the way, the NX research and development is one the best in the industry and a main reason for their higher cost.
Nothing personal against your kits, by the way. Just putting some of my opinions out there like I normally do, and let the buyers be the judge on what they want to purchase. I do know that for a certain amount of guys, that cost is a factor, and a base kit can be a great way to get introduced to n2o. But, if we all do our home work, often times a base kit ends up costing more when you consider what it's missing and what you really want/need. So buying a mid priced kit can sometimes be a center ground for needs.
Oh, one more thing, for those reading along, I run some of the Dyno Tune products on my car.
Robert
11-21-2006, 05:38 PM
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The trick to getting the right kit is research and planning. Know what you want to do. If you don't know what you want to do, give the vendor an idea of where you want to go with the install and they will readily offer up ideas and products that will get you where you want to be.
Things that may bite ya are if your going to put your noids by the airlid you need to know you a base kit 14'-16 feet of mainline may leave you short(likely 18-20' may be better). If your going to hid the noids under fuel rail covers the brackets that come with the solenoids are suffiecient, but if your gonna hang you noids out you may want something a little more custom like intake mounts (HSW) or passenger side head mount (Nitrous Outlet). Other things are how many bottle ports do you need? How many accessories are you going to run off the bottle? Does the bottle come with a gauge?
The big four i.e. DynoTune, Nitrous Outlet, HSW, and Nitrous Direct will spec a kit out based on what you want. Call them tell them what you want and see what they will do for you. I found the more you buy the better the deal, and things like the window switch and heater are essential add ons for a base kit.
The big four all have websites and the instruction sets are readily available for Download (if they are not downloadable, they will send them to you if you ask in a PM or an email). Look at the similiar installs for your vehicle to get your ideas.
Bottom line on the price is what your interested in for "Your specific kit".
Things that may bite ya are if your going to put your noids by the airlid you need to know you a base kit 14'-16 feet of mainline may leave you short(likely 18-20' may be better). If your going to hid the noids under fuel rail covers the brackets that come with the solenoids are suffiecient, but if your gonna hang you noids out you may want something a little more custom like intake mounts (HSW) or passenger side head mount (Nitrous Outlet). Other things are how many bottle ports do you need? How many accessories are you going to run off the bottle? Does the bottle come with a gauge?
The big four i.e. DynoTune, Nitrous Outlet, HSW, and Nitrous Direct will spec a kit out based on what you want. Call them tell them what you want and see what they will do for you. I found the more you buy the better the deal, and things like the window switch and heater are essential add ons for a base kit.
The big four all have websites and the instruction sets are readily available for Download (if they are not downloadable, they will send them to you if you ask in a PM or an email). Look at the similiar installs for your vehicle to get your ideas.
Bottom line on the price is what your interested in for "Your specific kit".
11-21-2006, 05:58 PM
#24
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Oh, one more thing, for those reading along, I run some of the Dyno Tune products on my car.
Robert[/QUOTE]
I knew I always liked you
Need to fix the problem with the noid instead of super sizing it to make up for its flaws. Sorry just getting into the holiday spirit and need to unwind a bit. Actually you are correct with most noids debris is almost always the cause of solonoid failure - get those filters guys!
I have the utmost respect for NX and their design team. I feel they are right at the tops in the industry. We are constantly keeping an eye on NX and NOS as they our are main competitors controlling the majority of the market. But we are gaining fast! You dont see what I have to pay Dan - so I am not sure their costs are higher! I will have to talk to him when he gets back from his 10 day boondoggle in Aruba.
Happy holidays to you and your family - You are an asset to the LS1 community for sure!
Dean
Robert[/QUOTE]
I knew I always liked you
Need to fix the problem with the noid instead of super sizing it to make up for its flaws. Sorry just getting into the holiday spirit and need to unwind a bit. Actually you are correct with most noids debris is almost always the cause of solonoid failure - get those filters guys!
I have the utmost respect for NX and their design team. I feel they are right at the tops in the industry. We are constantly keeping an eye on NX and NOS as they our are main competitors controlling the majority of the market. But we are gaining fast! You dont see what I have to pay Dan - so I am not sure their costs are higher! I will have to talk to him when he gets back from his 10 day boondoggle in Aruba.
Happy holidays to you and your family - You are an asset to the LS1 community for sure!
Dean
11-21-2006, 08:48 PM
#26
These sound like some expensive nitrous kits. I thought I'de be paying less than 500$ if all I wanted was a 50-150 shot, and I saw some of the sponsors selling dual nozzle kits capable of up to 300hp for around 650$.
I am not fancy so I dont need remote bottle openers, a purge valve or even a bottle warmer. I see many guys on the street and even the big boys at the track using a propane torch..
I am looking to make big numbers and keep the engine safe on the shortest budget possible.. so am I crazy or can nitrous be done for cheeper than the prices listed thus far?
I am not fancy so I dont need remote bottle openers, a purge valve or even a bottle warmer. I see many guys on the street and even the big boys at the track using a propane torch..
I am looking to make big numbers and keep the engine safe on the shortest budget possible.. so am I crazy or can nitrous be done for cheeper than the prices listed thus far?
11-21-2006, 10:54 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by sciff5
These sound like some expensive nitrous kits. I thought I'de be paying less than 500$ if all I wanted was a 50-150 shot, and I saw some of the sponsors selling dual nozzle kits capable of up to 300hp for around 650$.
I am not fancy so I dont need remote bottle openers, a purge valve or even a bottle warmer. I see many guys on the street and even the big boys at the track using a propane torch..
I am looking to make big numbers and keep the engine safe on the shortest budget possible.. so am I crazy or can nitrous be done for cheeper than the prices listed thus far?
I am not fancy so I dont need remote bottle openers, a purge valve or even a bottle warmer. I see many guys on the street and even the big boys at the track using a propane torch..
I am looking to make big numbers and keep the engine safe on the shortest budget possible.. so am I crazy or can nitrous be done for cheeper than the prices listed thus far?
Nitrous isn't as cheap as people make it out to be. Especially after you start filling bottles.Having a purge and heater isn't being fancy. A purge will make sure you're only spraying the nitrous into the engine and a heater is critical for proper gains. In order to gain 125hp from a certain jet the bottle needs to be at the proper temp. A propane torch is just stupid. Most shops won't even refill a bottle if it has signs of being heated with a torch. A lot of tracks won't let you run either. I guess if you refill your own bottles and only street race, no one can stop you but its still stupid.
If you don't want to spend more than $500 you have three options.
1. Buy a base kit and don't bother with anything else. You're asking for trouble at this point IMO. I do not suggest this method but many people do it anyway.
2. Buy used. Theres nothing wrong with used kits. Just make sure everything is working right before spraying.
3. Don't even bother buying nitrous.
Last edited by ~RedLineLs1~; 11-21-2006 at 11:02 PM.
11-22-2006, 02:12 AM
#28
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Heater kits IMO are useless for back to back runs. Good when it is cold and your bottle is always in car.
At the track I use hot water and a bucket to heat my bottles. With quick release setup it is a matter of a couple of minutes. The bottles heat up in less than 30 seconds and it is completely safe.
FPSS is good but you guys are forgetting a major item which is nitrous filter (to prevent undesired particles that could cause the noid to stick open.). Personaly I run 2 noids in series because one of them is gonna shut. The chance of both of hem sticking at same time is very remote.
Wet kits complete is more expensive. The most complete dry kit i've yet to see is the NOS 5177 (only the filter/heater are needed) all else is there.
At the track I use hot water and a bucket to heat my bottles. With quick release setup it is a matter of a couple of minutes. The bottles heat up in less than 30 seconds and it is completely safe.
FPSS is good but you guys are forgetting a major item which is nitrous filter (to prevent undesired particles that could cause the noid to stick open.). Personaly I run 2 noids in series because one of them is gonna shut. The chance of both of hem sticking at same time is very remote.
Wet kits complete is more expensive. The most complete dry kit i've yet to see is the NOS 5177 (only the filter/heater are needed) all else is there.
11-22-2006, 07:46 AM
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Same here on the heater, it's not needed. I heat mine up in the kitchen sink with hot water and put a blanket over it while it's installed and I run. Pressures never go below 900psi after the night is over. Purging is more for regulating bottle pressure when spraying large amounts, a 150hp shot doesn't need a nitrous purge.
One other thing, Nitrous is supposed to cheap because that's what it's been labeled as, cheap and easy horsepower!!
One other thing, Nitrous is supposed to cheap because that's what it's been labeled as, cheap and easy horsepower!!
11-22-2006, 08:28 AM
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I spent around a 1000 on my complete kit as well.
TnT F1 kit
Msd Window Switch
TnT purge kit
860 Bottle\Bracket heater
Nitrous Outlet switch panel
The Tnt kit is awesome!! Easy install and threw me into the 11s with the 100shot...installing the walbro 255 this wkend though so I can bump it up to a 150shot!!
TnT F1 kit
Msd Window Switch
TnT purge kit
860 Bottle\Bracket heater
Nitrous Outlet switch panel
The Tnt kit is awesome!! Easy install and threw me into the 11s with the 100shot...installing the walbro 255 this wkend though so I can bump it up to a 150shot!!
11-22-2006, 10:12 AM
#33
A nitrous system can be as cheap or expensive as you make it.
There are alot of budget systems or higher quality systems on the market today. I have noticed alot of new guys fading into the nitrous area these days. Some of these new faces start off with a budget system. Then they have to replace solenoids etc or upgrade to fit there needs in the future. By the time it is all said and done they have spent more than if they would have done it right the first time. Then you have the guys that bought the system that best fit there needs with the best quality they could get for there money. These guys normally come out better in the long run.
So my advice would be to look at all the systems and explore your needs now and in the future.
There is more to a nitrous system than a sales pitch and a picture on a web site.
Here are somne things to consider.
1. Bottle Valve- What will it flow, Does the handwheel offer any valve stem support, Are there any provisions in the sides to run a N20 pressure gauge and a pressure switch for the heater.
2. Solenoids- Do they have a warrenty, What size are they, What will they flow, Are they a quality built solenoid, Amp Draw, Port design etc
3. Nozzle desighn or plate desighn- How does the discharge flow, Machining quality,
4. Main feed hose- Is it long enough
5. Hoses from solenoids to nozzle- Are they long enough to offer different mounting choices.
6. Hardware- Is everything there
7. Bottle Brackets. Are they a solid unit, Not to big
8. Jetting- What hp levels does the system come with
Once you expolre the systems you need to look alittl;e further into accessories.
What will you need..
Safety--
The most needed safety device will be the window switch and fuel pressure safety switch.
Window switch- This unit is desighned to keep you from spraying under to low of a RPM or hitting rev limiter while on the spray. This unit is needed for a auto or manual transmission..
Fuel pressure safety switch- This unit is designed to shut the nitrous off incase of fuel pump failure.
Accessories-
Purge- The purge kit is used to purge the air out of the main feed line. This will improve your 60 foot times by the nitrous having a more instant and solid hit. It can also be used to purge down bottle pressure in the isntance that bottle pressure is to high. And ofcourse it makes for a cool show when showing off for your buddies.
Bottle Heater- All nitrous systems are designed to fuction at a certain bottle pressure. Low bottle pressure will cause inconsistent runs and a tuning nitemare. Your bottle pressure should always be 900 to 1050 psi.
Nitrous Pressure gauge- The nitrous pressure gauge is very important to know your bottle pressure..
Nitrous Filter- A nitrous filter will keep you from getting trash and debrees in the nitrous solenoid. Getting trash or debrees in the solenoid can cause it to hang open.
Remote bottle opener- The remote bottle opner is not something you have to have. However it is nice to have. This will keep you from having to go to the back of the car to open the bottle. You can do it from the driver seat..
Passing tech...
NHRA Blow off Valve- This blow off valve is desighned to take the place of the stock blow off valve that comes in the bottle valve. It is threaded with a 8 an thread to adapt a blow down tube onto the bottle.
Blow Down tube- The blow down tube is required in any application where the bottle is mounted inside the car. The blow down tube is desighned to evacuate the nitrous out of the car in the case that your bottle pressure raised unsafe pressures causing the blow off disk to rupture.
This should give you the basic idea on common used parts and accessories. This list can go on to progressive controllers, timming boxes, wideband controllers etc..
I am the type of person that is really big on wanting the best my money can buy. I do not focus on who is the cheapest on the block because that always seem to get me in trouble and cost me more in the long run. Now when I look at a product I look at intire package, what my plans are, quality, customer service, and then evaulate cost..
Now on CUSTOMER SERVICE..
1. Does the company offer technical help before, during and after the purchase.
2. Is the tech department easy to get in touch with? Can you pick up a phone and get a actual human being during the day?
3. If you have faulty product will they take care of you?
4. What is the companies actual Knowledge in order to guide you in the right direction.
I hope this may have helped in some way. I am sure there are alot of misspelled words so please dont be to hard on me.lol
Dave
There are alot of budget systems or higher quality systems on the market today. I have noticed alot of new guys fading into the nitrous area these days. Some of these new faces start off with a budget system. Then they have to replace solenoids etc or upgrade to fit there needs in the future. By the time it is all said and done they have spent more than if they would have done it right the first time. Then you have the guys that bought the system that best fit there needs with the best quality they could get for there money. These guys normally come out better in the long run.
So my advice would be to look at all the systems and explore your needs now and in the future.
There is more to a nitrous system than a sales pitch and a picture on a web site.
Here are somne things to consider.
1. Bottle Valve- What will it flow, Does the handwheel offer any valve stem support, Are there any provisions in the sides to run a N20 pressure gauge and a pressure switch for the heater.
2. Solenoids- Do they have a warrenty, What size are they, What will they flow, Are they a quality built solenoid, Amp Draw, Port design etc
3. Nozzle desighn or plate desighn- How does the discharge flow, Machining quality,
4. Main feed hose- Is it long enough
5. Hoses from solenoids to nozzle- Are they long enough to offer different mounting choices.
6. Hardware- Is everything there
7. Bottle Brackets. Are they a solid unit, Not to big
8. Jetting- What hp levels does the system come with
Once you expolre the systems you need to look alittl;e further into accessories.
What will you need..
Safety--
The most needed safety device will be the window switch and fuel pressure safety switch.
Window switch- This unit is desighned to keep you from spraying under to low of a RPM or hitting rev limiter while on the spray. This unit is needed for a auto or manual transmission..
Fuel pressure safety switch- This unit is designed to shut the nitrous off incase of fuel pump failure.
Accessories-
Purge- The purge kit is used to purge the air out of the main feed line. This will improve your 60 foot times by the nitrous having a more instant and solid hit. It can also be used to purge down bottle pressure in the isntance that bottle pressure is to high. And ofcourse it makes for a cool show when showing off for your buddies.
Bottle Heater- All nitrous systems are designed to fuction at a certain bottle pressure. Low bottle pressure will cause inconsistent runs and a tuning nitemare. Your bottle pressure should always be 900 to 1050 psi.
Nitrous Pressure gauge- The nitrous pressure gauge is very important to know your bottle pressure..
Nitrous Filter- A nitrous filter will keep you from getting trash and debrees in the nitrous solenoid. Getting trash or debrees in the solenoid can cause it to hang open.
Remote bottle opener- The remote bottle opner is not something you have to have. However it is nice to have. This will keep you from having to go to the back of the car to open the bottle. You can do it from the driver seat..
Passing tech...
NHRA Blow off Valve- This blow off valve is desighned to take the place of the stock blow off valve that comes in the bottle valve. It is threaded with a 8 an thread to adapt a blow down tube onto the bottle.
Blow Down tube- The blow down tube is required in any application where the bottle is mounted inside the car. The blow down tube is desighned to evacuate the nitrous out of the car in the case that your bottle pressure raised unsafe pressures causing the blow off disk to rupture.
This should give you the basic idea on common used parts and accessories. This list can go on to progressive controllers, timming boxes, wideband controllers etc..
I am the type of person that is really big on wanting the best my money can buy. I do not focus on who is the cheapest on the block because that always seem to get me in trouble and cost me more in the long run. Now when I look at a product I look at intire package, what my plans are, quality, customer service, and then evaulate cost..
Now on CUSTOMER SERVICE..
1. Does the company offer technical help before, during and after the purchase.
2. Is the tech department easy to get in touch with? Can you pick up a phone and get a actual human being during the day?
3. If you have faulty product will they take care of you?
4. What is the companies actual Knowledge in order to guide you in the right direction.
I hope this may have helped in some way. I am sure there are alot of misspelled words so please dont be to hard on me.lol
Dave
11-22-2006, 11:35 AM
#34
Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
A nitrous system can be as cheap or expensive as you make it.
There are alot of budget systems or higher quality systems on the market today. I have noticed alot of new guys fading into the nitrous area these days. Some of these new faces start off with a budget system. Then they have to replace solenoids etc or upgrade to fit there needs in the future. By the time it is all said and done they have spent more than if they would have done it right the first time. Then you have the guys that bought the system that best fit there needs with the best quality they could get for there money. These guys normally come out better in the long run.
So my advice would be to look at all the systems and explore your needs now and in the future.
There is more to a nitrous system than a sales pitch and a picture on a web site.
Here are somne things to consider.
1. Bottle Valve- What will it flow, Does the handwheel offer any valve stem support, Are there any provisions in the sides to run a N20 pressure gauge and a pressure switch for the heater.
2. Solenoids- Do they have a warrenty, What size are they, What will they flow, Are they a quality built solenoid, Amp Draw, Port design etc
3. Nozzle desighn or plate desighn- How does the discharge flow, Machining quality,
4. Main feed hose- Is it long enough
5. Hoses from solenoids to nozzle- Are they long enough to offer different mounting choices.
6. Hardware- Is everything there
7. Bottle Brackets. Are they a solid unit, Not to big
8. Jetting- What hp levels does the system come with
Once you expolre the systems you need to look alittl;e further into accessories.
What will you need..
Safety--
The most needed safety device will be the window switch and fuel pressure safety switch.
Window switch- This unit is desighned to keep you from spraying under to low of a RPM or hitting rev limiter while on the spray. This unit is needed for a auto or manual transmission..
Fuel pressure safety switch- This unit is designed to shut the nitrous off incase of fuel pump failure.
Accessories-
Purge- The purge kit is used to purge the air out of the main feed line. This will improve your 60 foot times by the nitrous having a more instant and solid hit. It can also be used to purge down bottle pressure in the isntance that bottle pressure is to high. And ofcourse it makes for a cool show when showing off for your buddies.
Bottle Heater- All nitrous systems are designed to fuction at a certain bottle pressure. Low bottle pressure will cause inconsistent runs and a tuning nitemare. Your bottle pressure should always be 900 to 1050 psi.
Nitrous Pressure gauge- The nitrous pressure gauge is very important to know your bottle pressure..
Nitrous Filter- A nitrous filter will keep you from getting trash and debrees in the nitrous solenoid. Getting trash or debrees in the solenoid can cause it to hang open.
Remote bottle opener- The remote bottle opner is not something you have to have. However it is nice to have. This will keep you from having to go to the back of the car to open the bottle. You can do it from the driver seat..
Passing tech...
NHRA Blow off Valve- This blow off valve is desighned to take the place of the stock blow off valve that comes in the bottle valve. It is threaded with a 8 an thread to adapt a blow down tube onto the bottle.
Blow Down tube- The blow down tube is required in any application where the bottle is mounted inside the car. The blow down tube is desighned to evacuate the nitrous out of the car in the case that your bottle pressure raised unsafe pressures causing the blow off disk to rupture.
This should give you the basic idea on common used parts and accessories. This list can go on to progressive controllers, timming boxes, wideband controllers etc..
I am the type of person that is really big on wanting the best my money can buy. I do not focus on who is the cheapest on the block because that always seem to get me in trouble and cost me more in the long run. Now when I look at a product I look at intire package, what my plans are, quality, customer service, and then evaulate cost..
Now on CUSTOMER SERVICE..
1. Does the company offer technical help before, during and after the purchase.
2. Is the tech department easy to get in touch with? Can you pick up a phone and get a actual human being during the day?
3. If you have faulty product will they take care of you?
4. What is the companies actual Knowledge in order to guide you in the right direction.
I hope this may have helped in some way. I am sure there are alot of misspelled words so please dont be to hard on me.lol
Dave
There are alot of budget systems or higher quality systems on the market today. I have noticed alot of new guys fading into the nitrous area these days. Some of these new faces start off with a budget system. Then they have to replace solenoids etc or upgrade to fit there needs in the future. By the time it is all said and done they have spent more than if they would have done it right the first time. Then you have the guys that bought the system that best fit there needs with the best quality they could get for there money. These guys normally come out better in the long run.
So my advice would be to look at all the systems and explore your needs now and in the future.
There is more to a nitrous system than a sales pitch and a picture on a web site.
Here are somne things to consider.
1. Bottle Valve- What will it flow, Does the handwheel offer any valve stem support, Are there any provisions in the sides to run a N20 pressure gauge and a pressure switch for the heater.
2. Solenoids- Do they have a warrenty, What size are they, What will they flow, Are they a quality built solenoid, Amp Draw, Port design etc
3. Nozzle desighn or plate desighn- How does the discharge flow, Machining quality,
4. Main feed hose- Is it long enough
5. Hoses from solenoids to nozzle- Are they long enough to offer different mounting choices.
6. Hardware- Is everything there
7. Bottle Brackets. Are they a solid unit, Not to big
8. Jetting- What hp levels does the system come with
Once you expolre the systems you need to look alittl;e further into accessories.
What will you need..
Safety--
The most needed safety device will be the window switch and fuel pressure safety switch.
Window switch- This unit is desighned to keep you from spraying under to low of a RPM or hitting rev limiter while on the spray. This unit is needed for a auto or manual transmission..
Fuel pressure safety switch- This unit is designed to shut the nitrous off incase of fuel pump failure.
Accessories-
Purge- The purge kit is used to purge the air out of the main feed line. This will improve your 60 foot times by the nitrous having a more instant and solid hit. It can also be used to purge down bottle pressure in the isntance that bottle pressure is to high. And ofcourse it makes for a cool show when showing off for your buddies.
Bottle Heater- All nitrous systems are designed to fuction at a certain bottle pressure. Low bottle pressure will cause inconsistent runs and a tuning nitemare. Your bottle pressure should always be 900 to 1050 psi.
Nitrous Pressure gauge- The nitrous pressure gauge is very important to know your bottle pressure..
Nitrous Filter- A nitrous filter will keep you from getting trash and debrees in the nitrous solenoid. Getting trash or debrees in the solenoid can cause it to hang open.
Remote bottle opener- The remote bottle opner is not something you have to have. However it is nice to have. This will keep you from having to go to the back of the car to open the bottle. You can do it from the driver seat..
Passing tech...
NHRA Blow off Valve- This blow off valve is desighned to take the place of the stock blow off valve that comes in the bottle valve. It is threaded with a 8 an thread to adapt a blow down tube onto the bottle.
Blow Down tube- The blow down tube is required in any application where the bottle is mounted inside the car. The blow down tube is desighned to evacuate the nitrous out of the car in the case that your bottle pressure raised unsafe pressures causing the blow off disk to rupture.
This should give you the basic idea on common used parts and accessories. This list can go on to progressive controllers, timming boxes, wideband controllers etc..
I am the type of person that is really big on wanting the best my money can buy. I do not focus on who is the cheapest on the block because that always seem to get me in trouble and cost me more in the long run. Now when I look at a product I look at intire package, what my plans are, quality, customer service, and then evaulate cost..
Now on CUSTOMER SERVICE..
1. Does the company offer technical help before, during and after the purchase.
2. Is the tech department easy to get in touch with? Can you pick up a phone and get a actual human being during the day?
3. If you have faulty product will they take care of you?
4. What is the companies actual Knowledge in order to guide you in the right direction.
I hope this may have helped in some way. I am sure there are alot of misspelled words so please dont be to hard on me.lol
Dave
On the heater, this is allmost a must if you really want to win races. You'll never run consistant times using other methods, it just doesn't happen. What I do is bypass the transducer so I have better control of heater. Make a run, and on the return lane I turn heater back on so pressure is exactly where I want it for my next back to back. Also, running a 15lb bottle can minimize pressure drop.
A purge is also needed for consistant runs. You purge before your run, not for show, but to get the gases out of the line and have pure nitrous right at the noid (and through the noid on bottom discharge type noids ie: NX Lighting). The heat of the engine bay will turn your nitrous to gas.
A FPSS is a must for safety, imo.
A NHRA blow down kit is a must if you run at the strip.
A WS is a must for safety and for running consistant.
All of our site sponsors are great to deal with and will treat you fair. Most will work with you on a package deal, if that's what you want/need.
Robert
