selinoid problem, why?
selinoid problem, why? my buddy did a rev. purge and then it started revvin all on its own and smellin all weird and i shut down everything and the solenoid was still sprayin. So something went wrong with wiring or the selinoid stuck?? The internals of a selinoid are pretty simple. There also Compucar selinoids. Good/bad? So later on that night we were messin around with it later and it was working fine. Where should i go from here?
Although it may have been fixed by "divine intervention", it's highly doubtful. I wouldn't run it that way. You need to find the problem. Check:
1. is the IN and OUT on the solenoid correct?
2. do you have good, 12-14 awg, wires going to the solenoid?
3. good... no... GREAT GROUNDS? (If you're switching (wot/fpss) on the ground side, make sure they're all permanent connections... using crimp connectors or solder.. NO "VAMPIRE" connectors)
1. is the IN and OUT on the solenoid correct?
2. do you have good, 12-14 awg, wires going to the solenoid?
3. good... no... GREAT GROUNDS? (If you're switching (wot/fpss) on the ground side, make sure they're all permanent connections... using crimp connectors or solder.. NO "VAMPIRE" connectors)
were gonna check the selenoid and hes not using a FPSS and the activation switch is a ground switch. Its 12 ga. wire. They are crimp connectors on the switch and the wire connectind to the selenoids are soldered. Like i said, it did it that once then it was fine. So its eaither a bad connection somewhere or a stuck selenoid. And when you say is the IN and OUT on the selenoid correct, what exactely are you talking about?
One thing that can happen on small noids, or noids that are old, is engine bay heat and/or excessive bottle pressure. Either of these senerios can pop up at any given time, but later the noids will work once again. Ask me how I know. Many of the weaker small noids are border line, meaning, if you exceed their parameters they no workie. Your noids may be old and in need of a rebuild? or one of the above happened, or both. I take it that this is a dry hit?
Robert
Robert
no, its a wet kit and only the nitrous noid stuck open. And yes, i know theres a in/out specific on them too and thats fine. As for rebuilding them, which they are fairly new, do you just put a stronger/new spring in it? I had them apart before and theres nothing to it besides a steel shaft and a spring. You think something might be inside it, a little burr or something making it stick? Im 99% the wiring is perfect. I deff. take time on it. So im guessing its the noid.
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Verdad Gallardo yea, it works fine all the time. The motor was only running for like 3 min. before it happened. He had it at the track last sat. and it worked fine, and it got REAL hot then doin a lot od passes. And when it happened, he shut off every switch he had and it was still spraying. The only way it stopped is when he ran and shut the bottle off. So we narrowed it down to the selenoid, somewhere making it stick open. Stupid question but you cant greese the piston inside the selenoid can you? To make it not so easy to stick? Or will it mess up the flow and cause more problems with greese in there.
Last edited by Taubr Unit; Nov 27, 2006 at 05:57 PM.
well we took everything apart tonight and everything looked fine. Then we hooked the line back up and turned the bottle on and nitrous was spraying through the selenoid when it didnt have power to it. To tech. speeking, its not sticking open, its opening up by its self. Im guessing the only fix for this is a new selenoid, correct. And why did it do it after 10 runs on a new selenoid??!!
I guess COMPUCAR has the WORST! selenoids in the world!!
I guess COMPUCAR has the WORST! selenoids in the world!!
