Question: Nitrous, the whole nine yards
12-13-2006, 10:06 AM
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Question: Nitrous, the whole nine yards I have read about 30 posts here. The information is overwhelming. It's great to see that I can learn from my mistakes before I make them. I have wanted to run nitrous for years, but always though of it as cheating and dangerous. I installed it on my old iroc, but when I hit the switch, I got nothing. I tore that **** off and sold it the next day. Then I learned that nitrous is a catalyst and not a fuel. I also learned that you can put a great deal of nitrous on a car if done correctly. Now, I just purchased a ZEX dry kit 75-125 with the little fuel managment box. I know the poll of nitrous preferances showed that most don't prefer the Zex kit, but I bought it complete for 300 bucks. That's like 380 off the new price. Here are my questions. I know they may be redundant, but I think this thread may help alot of new nos investors. I just put brand new delco platinum plugs at .50 factory gap in my LT1 about 3 months and 100 miles ago before I decided to purchase nitrous.
-Has anyone had success spraying a 100 or 125 shot on a stock motor, with stock plugs, stock gap, stock timing, stock fuel system?
-Will running colder plugs and/or smaller gap cause any normal daily drivability issues?
-How do I retard timing on an optispark? I guess I need a timing control system of some sort? Do I really need to do so if running a regular 1-125 shot
-How the hell does a dry shot zex system manage fuel if it is a dry shot??!!
-Having fuel managment, can I move the dry nozzle closer to the throttle body or do I still need to install the nozzle before the mass airflow sensor like normal dry shot kits?
-Has anyone had success spraying a 100 or 125 shot on a stock motor, with stock plugs, stock gap, stock timing, stock fuel system?
-Will running colder plugs and/or smaller gap cause any normal daily drivability issues?
-How do I retard timing on an optispark? I guess I need a timing control system of some sort? Do I really need to do so if running a regular 1-125 shot
-How the hell does a dry shot zex system manage fuel if it is a dry shot??!!
-Having fuel managment, can I move the dry nozzle closer to the throttle body or do I still need to install the nozzle before the mass airflow sensor like normal dry shot kits?
12-13-2006, 10:46 AM
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-Has anyone had success spraying a 100 or 125 shot on a stock motor, with stock plugs, stock gap, stock timing, stock fuel system?
yes, many of us however a colder plug is always suggested.
-Will running colder plugs and/or smaller gap cause any normal daily drivability issues?
No. no one has posted any problems with the colder plugs during normal driving.
-How do I retard timing on an optispark? I guess I need a timing control system of some sort? Do I really need to do so if running a regular 1-125 shot
Not really needed on a shot of less than 150. Just don't advance the timing or run a handheld tuner program (which advances the timing).
-How the hell does a dry shot zex system manage fuel if it is a dry shot??!!
you inject AFTER (edited) the MAF. The fuel delivery will be your problem on a LT1. They don't supply a heck of a lot of fuel. Consider getting a walburo 255 pump. Zex also makes one PART #82020
-Having fuel managment, can I move the dry nozzle closer to the throttle body or do I still need to install the nozzle before the mass airflow sensor like normal dry shot kits?
MUST be in front of TB. (edited)
yes, many of us however a colder plug is always suggested.
-Will running colder plugs and/or smaller gap cause any normal daily drivability issues?
No. no one has posted any problems with the colder plugs during normal driving.
-How do I retard timing on an optispark? I guess I need a timing control system of some sort? Do I really need to do so if running a regular 1-125 shot
Not really needed on a shot of less than 150. Just don't advance the timing or run a handheld tuner program (which advances the timing).
-How the hell does a dry shot zex system manage fuel if it is a dry shot??!!
you inject AFTER (edited) the MAF. The fuel delivery will be your problem on a LT1. They don't supply a heck of a lot of fuel. Consider getting a walburo 255 pump. Zex also makes one PART #82020
-Having fuel managment, can I move the dry nozzle closer to the throttle body or do I still need to install the nozzle before the mass airflow sensor like normal dry shot kits?
MUST be in front of TB. (edited)
Last edited by Todd157k; 12-13-2006 at 03:58 PM.
12-13-2006, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by WONCAMARO
I have read about 30 posts here. The information is overwhelming. It's great to see that I can learn from my mistakes before I make them. I have wanted to run nitrous for years, but always though of it as cheating and dangerous. I installed it on my old iroc, but when I hit the switch, I got nothing. I tore that **** off and sold it the next day. Then I learned that nitrous is a catalyst and not a fuel. I also learned that you can put a great deal of nitrous on a car if done correctly. Now, I just purchased a ZEX dry kit 75-125 with the little fuel managment box. I know the poll of nitrous preferances showed that most don't prefer the Zex kit, but I bought it complete for 300 bucks. That's like 380 off the new price. Here are my questions. I know they may be redundant, but I think this thread may help alot of new nos investors. I just put brand new delco platinum plugs at .50 factory gap in my LT1 about 3 months and 100 miles ago before I decided to purchase nitrous.
Originally Posted by WONCAMARO
-Has anyone had success spraying a 100 or 125 shot on a stock motor, with stock plugs, stock gap, stock timing, stock fuel system?
Originally Posted by WONCAMARO
-Will running colder plugs and/or smaller gap cause any normal daily drivability issues?
Originally Posted by WONCAMARO
-How do I retard timing on an optispark? I guess I need a timing control system of some sort? Do I really need to do so if running a regular 1-125 shot?
Originally Posted by WONCAMARO
-How the hell does a dry shot zex system manage fuel if it is a dry shot??!!
Originally Posted by WONCAMARO
-Having fuel managment, can I move the dry nozzle closer to the throttle body or do I still need to install the nozzle before the mass airflow sensor like normal dry shot kits?
12-13-2006, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Ray@Nitrous Outlet
On the LT1 platform the dry nozzle will be placed in front of the TB, AFTER the MAF. LS1 cars spray before the MAF. The LT1 dry kits bump the fuel pressure and the MAF is not involved.
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12-16-2006, 07:57 PM
#11
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I really appreciate all those who responded. I have everything installed now, but am curious as to where I can get my tank filled. I saw a site a long while back which listed all the refill stations in texas. Does anyone know if there are any stations in san marcos or austin texas.
05-10-2011, 10:45 PM
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Alot of you guys are running LS1's with a larger shot than the OP is suggesting.
From this thread then, I would guess that the ngk tr6's are a good spark plug for a 125 shot, bolt on Lt1? anything else i should think of?
From this thread then, I would guess that the ngk tr6's are a good spark plug for a 125 shot, bolt on Lt1? anything else i should think of?
05-11-2011, 02:12 AM
#15
I'm running TR6s on a 150 0.38 gap, N2O tuned on a dyno. I have a LS1 timing tuner for a window switch.
Important advice to OP; it seems you did some research but I don t think you read enough on the subject.
1st, I would never run a 125 pill dry without new injectors,
2nd retarding timing,
3rd colder plugs
4th a FPSS or a better than stock fuel pump.
Finally without monitoring your A/F ratio.
I would add that nitrous filter is a very good idea too..but not essential. And watch you nitrous pressure too.. I always warm my bottle with the heater to 950-1000psi(a bit on the high side because I know my nitrous tune is very rich and safe).
But thats just my 02.
Important advice to OP; it seems you did some research but I don t think you read enough on the subject.
1st, I would never run a 125 pill dry without new injectors,
2nd retarding timing,
3rd colder plugs
4th a FPSS or a better than stock fuel pump.
Finally without monitoring your A/F ratio.
I would add that nitrous filter is a very good idea too..but not essential. And watch you nitrous pressure too.. I always warm my bottle with the heater to 950-1000psi(a bit on the high side because I know my nitrous tune is very rich and safe).
But thats just my 02.
