I was wonderign if these are worth it or if I should get a remote bottle opener? Could someone explain to me how hte automatic heater switches work? I can't find any info on them.

Thanks in advance,
Craig

 

i have a brand new dynotune adjustable one for sale...

they keep your bottle between a specific pressure like 950-1000
this is very helpful because some kits are rated at 950 psi some at 900 some at 1000...and to get the right a/f you need the kit at the right pressure...that is if its a wet kit

 

it is indeed the wet kit, a tnt f1, So I wouldn't need a pressure gauge then or a remote bottle opener? How coem you can keep it open all hte time? Then when you are WOT it is activated and sprays right? How much do you want for your auto heater and what is the reason for selling?

 

http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...p?idproduct=17
link to heater info

I run the same one it is great and worth it cuts on and off at pressure not temp and you just turn it on and never have to worry about it. the remote bottle opener depends on if you want to use it on the street "IMO" I wish i had one every time a C6 pulls up next to me on the interstate.

 

so you can leave the bottle open all the time or you haev to turn it off? I put my bottle in hte spare tire well, I want to be able to have it activated when a viper or something comes beside me. I am just confused about the "keeping it open all the time" part

 

ok, the heater will be on all the time but I will still haev toopen the bottle by hand unless I have a bottle opener?

 

The DynoTune automatic heater works great, it is adjustable and has a set screw so you can adjust it to what you want for a pressure to shut off. When the pressure is below what you set, the heater kicks on, when the pressure is above what you set it shuts off.

 

I have the nitrous kit plumbing hooked up just not any electrical yet. How do you hook up the mechanical remote pressure gauge to the tank? Do I need a T connector or something? It is a phantom 1 series. I also have one more question, to hook up the air fuel gauge where do you connect it to? I read on the autometer website to hook it to pin #69 on hte pcm but I have no idea which one that is. I am so confused with this stuff right now..

 

also one more question, with the auto bottle heater is it on all the time of your car is not running if you forget to turn it off or do you want it on all the time and also, how long does it take to get it to about 1000psi?

 

The heater is turned on witha switch but will heat the bottle to a good pressure and the cut off so it will not reach to much pressure.

BUT to spray you have to have the bottle open, and it is not a good idea to just leave it open all the the nitrouse will slowly leak out what you want is the remote bottle opener so you push that butten and it opens the bottle up

best one on the market right here http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...p?idproduct=16

 

what is the second best bottle opener? that one says it doesn't work with the tnt valves

 

For the PCM wire find your PCM



Picture above is for a PCM for a 99 Vette.

Under the cover of the grey caps shows how they are numbered. One of the connectors is red, the other is blue so be sure to get the right connector.



Red connector shown above. I do not know which one (red or Blue) you need for your application.

 

beer99, is the pcm behind the glove box? disregard this question. its on the passenger side under the hood

 

can anyone tell me where the fuel sending unit is?

 

You should have the relay wired so it is switched. No power to the heater with the ignition off.

A full bottle, 40-50° F day about twenty minutes to heat up to 950-1000 PSI.

A full bottle is about 600 PSI give a take a little on a 50° Day

A heater is critical IMHO to get the most out of the system.

Not sure if the new opener for DynoTune will support TNT, but I can vouch for the opener working great too.

 

Heaters & blankets are very important. Can't be consistant without proper pressure.

I personally don't like remote opener, but than again, it is illegal in my class,
and I don't fly around the streets.

 

Ours works with the TNT bottle valves:

http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/shop...age=1&featured

Thanks,
Matt

 

Craig,
Here is a small list to help you understand what the fuctions and purpos of each accsessory is.

1. Bottle Heater: Bottle pressure is very important to a proper operating nitrous system. We suggest tuning your Nitrous Outlet system with a bottle pressure of 950 to 1050 PSI. A bottle heater will be needed to keep your system at the needed pressure so that the nitrous flows correctly. As it cools off outside creating a chill on the bottle or you start to use your system your bottle pressure will drop causing your engine to bog and lose horsepower.

2. Purge: The purge system is needed for more than producing a cool show for your buddies. A purge kit is needed to evacuate the air from the main feed line. This will eliminate the system from bogging the engine due to the fuel hitting before the nitrous, causing the engine to go rich upon the initial hit. By purging the air from the main feed line you will improve 60-foot times and have a harder hitting nitrous system. The purge kit can also be used to purge down excessive bottle pressure.


3. Nitrous Pressure Gauge: since knowing your bottle pressure is very important you will need a nitrous pressure gauge in order to watch bottle pressure. Nitrous Outlet offers a nitrous pressure gauge that mounts to the bottle as well as in the cockpit of the vehicle.

4. Fuel Pressure Gauge: being aware of the fuel pressure is the best way to know the limits of the fuel system. By monitoring the fuel pressure you will know if the fuel system is being extended. Nitrous Outlet offers mechanical gauges to mount in the engine compartment as well as gauges to go in the cockpit of your vehicle.

5. Fuel Pressure Safety Switch: The fuel pressure safety switch is a safety device that is designed to shut off the nitrous system in the event of fuel pump failure. This switch is pressure controlled and will wire in conjunction to the systems relay. In the event the fuel pump fails it will break the ground source to the system relay.

6. TPS Activation Switch: Most late model fuel injected applications are drive by wire (NO THROTTLE CABLE). These applications require a TPS activation switch in order to activate your nitrous system at wide-open throttle. The activation switch works by reading the throttle position sensors voltage.

7. Window Safety Switch: The window safety switch is designed to keep you from spraying under to low of a rpm or over revving your engine. The window switch gives you two settings, an activation rpm and a deactivation rpm. You will set the activation point to at least 3000 RPM. When the system is activated, the TPS or wide-open throttle switch sees wide-open throttle it will complete the positive circuit to the systems relay. The window switch will read the engine RPM. When it rises to the set RPM on the window switch, the switch will supply ground to the systems relay, completing the circuit and firing the solenoids. In the incident the driver misses a gear, transmission slips, rear end or driveshaft breaks causing the engine to over rev the window switch will take away the ground to the solenoids at the set RPM on the switch shutting off the nitrous system. We suggest setting the deactivation RPM for the window switch at the shift point or 200 to 300 RPM before rev limiter.

8. NHRA Valve & Blow Down Tube: In order to meet NHRA requirements you must use a blow down tube if the bottle is located in the vehicle. In order to adapt the blow down tube to the bottle you will need a NHRA approved blow off valve. This valve is threaded on both ends creating an external thread for the blow down tube to screw on. The blow down tube is designed to evacuate the nitrous from the bottle outside the vehicle in the case that the safety disc burst.

9. Nitrous Filter: The nitrous filter is used to filter any trash or contaminants from entering your nitrous solenoid.

10. Remote Bottle Opener: With the remote bottle opener you can open and close the bottle with out ever leaving the comforts of the driver seat.

 

Great list Dave!

I am only missing one thing The FPSS

Mods should add this list to the FAQs.

rez, its worth your time to call and talk with the Vendors to see what works with what. I talked with Dave, Matt and Dean/Dan while trying to decide on what I wanted and ended up with a little bit from all of them (Nitrous Outlet, HSW, and DynoTune). They all have great products, and are willing to answer questions, they know what will work with their products and what won't. Not one of them was pushy or tried to force a sale. I learned a bunch for the calls as well as lurking the around here.

 

thanks for everything everybody who posted.