Now I believe I have done a sufficient amount of reading to become dangerous to myself and my vehicle concerning nitrous. I've come up with a list and would like to know if something has been missed or requires changing in order to properly run nitrous as safe as possible with as little headache.

1. Dry Nitrous Kit - from one of our sponsors, looking into Nitro Dave's halo so I do not have to put a hole into my airlid

2. Bottle Heater - either thermostatically or pressure controlled

3. FPSS - safety cutout unknown psi

4. TPS/WOT Switch

5. Window Switch - Something with a first gear lockout, rpm in 3000 out 5XXX

6. Bottle Mount - Between rear seats, air tank, compressor, and valves will be taking up space in the trunk.

7. NGK TR6 - Set of 8, stock number 4177

Thats about what I've compiled, this infers that the Dry Nitrous Kit will come with a pressure gauge for the bottle and the bottle itself. Now what I would also like to run by the gurus here is injectors and a wideband. I plan on adding a set of long tube headers in the near future as well, will my stock injectors be compromised on their duty cycle. Also what would be something to look into purchasing to monitor injector duty cycle. Wideband, is it needed for a dry kit jetted to 100, I am aware that it is nice to have even on a stock motor to monitor a crucial function, but is it something that would be required. Granted, I understand that a push button and a kit is all that could be needed, yet I want to have no qualms about what I am planning to do to my vehicle and I wouldn't want to be unsafe if there is a safe option. Also, if there is a sponsor that reads this and they already have what I've listed in a kit I'm sorry that I missed it and I would like to request a link. As embarrassing as that could be, at least the question is asked for someone that could ask it in the future.

 

No one has anything to say?

 

looks like you have all the basics in there

call Nitrous outlet on monday,
they can go over everythign with you,
make sure you have everything.

 

Set the FPSS to around 55 psi (also don't forget a cap to go on the end of the manifold fitting since you will be using it on a dry kit). If you have a stock tune the rev limiter is 6200 rpms I believe. To see injector duty cycle you'll need a scan tool, like Auto Tap, EFI Live and so on.

Matt

 

Thanks Matt I appreciate you reading the post, that answered the questions I had. HSW has the pressure stat for the bottle heaters correct?

 

Most people don't go the whole distance because of cost but a safe as safe can be nitrous system has a nitrous filter and a fuel pressure gauge.

Undetected detonation is the worst thing that can happen after an intake backfire. A way to monitor for detonation would be a scanner or data logging. Reading plugs is very hard to do and only shows detonation after the damage has happened or at best, in the first stages of destruction. Real time knock detection can be done with the Scanmaster but the ultimate testing is with a wideband Air/Fuel ratio gauge. AEM, Innovate and PLX are the most notorious but there are others out there.

There is only so much you can do to assure you will have fuel when the nitrous flows. A plugged fuel jet in the fogger will show plenty of fuel pressure but the last stage will end an engine. If a nitrous solenoid were to stick open, there again is a situation that will end in disaster.

I often purge my gas line (wet system) before using nitrous because I am a pretty nervous guy about it all. These are the other things I have found.

 

Yes, the Revolution Bottle Heater Kits use an adjustable pressure switch for controlling the heater element (it's pre-set @ 950 psi). Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks,
Matt

 

Will do, does HSW happen to have a dry kit with anything similar to the halo that Dave has? I am against tapping into my airbox just because I'm **** about how it looks.

 

No, we don't offer a system like that. On a dry shot you'll want the nitrous discharge pretty close to the MAF sensor for a richer A/F mixture. I know a nozzle sticking out is not the prettiest, but as far a getting A/F adjusted it's pretty hard to beat a nozzle that can be twisted around a little and that is mounted right before the MAF.

Thanks,
Matt

 

So then would a dual nozzle setup be more ideal for the situation? That being said would I need to pull my MAF screen to ensure a better reading?

 

Yes, allways pull the MAF screen on a dry hit, it'll cause condensation to build up cause the nitrous is so cold, then you have a major restriction and poor reading by MAF. Check out our PRO Dry kit, dual SS nozzles, 400hp mega noid, wot sw, NHRA Blow Down kit, 15lb bottle, FPSS and all the other goodies needed for an install, except WS. If your going to stay at a certain hp shot, you can just get it tuned for said hit, and really don't have to have a WB and a logger hooked up all the time. Now if your going to be changing hits all the time, then having a WB becomes very cost effective. Timing, if none has been added, stock setting is fine for most up to 150rwhp shot. When you get tuned at that time you can check inj DC and decide how big you might be able to go in the future. The wet vs dry thread has the math for sizing injectors, and also some good points on placing nozzles. Even if you buy from someone else, if ya need any help setting up or tuning, just pm me and I would be happy to help.
Robert

 

Can I fit a 15lb bottle in between my rear seats, I'm pretty limited as to where I can put this bottle.

 

I believe so, but will revert to those that may have? If it won't work, you can allways spec a 10lb'er and get $$ credit.
Robert

 

How much are you looking to spary? If 150 or less you would be fine on a single nozzle set up, like with our Sudden Impact Single Nozzle Dry Kit:

http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/shop...age=1&featured

If you are looking for a dual nozzle dry:

http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/shop...cat=365&page=1

Let me know if you have any questions.

Matt

 

I'm only looking to spray a 100 shot, no more, no less. I'd like to be able to keep my stock fuel pump and possibly injectors with adding a set of headers to my car.

 

Well here is another question, would I need to pull any timing for this application?

 

Not if your timing is still set to the stock maps. If you advanced it any then maybe, speending on how much you bumped it up. With the dry shot it will pull a degree or two for you automatically.

Matt