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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 09:00 PM
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Default 250 whp shot, need advice

i have an 02 ss making 420 at the wheels n/a, im very knowledgable on nitrous and wanted to know what everyone thought about running a 250 whp on a stock bottem end. anyone doing this? i would be around 675 at the wheels. much past the threshold of the bottem end. i know the 02s are a little stronger and i run a fjo progressive controller. i just wanted to know what you guys thought.

also what is the hp limit on a walbro fuel pump. i have a wideband to check but would just like to know when i would need to add a bigger pump a boosta pump.
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 09:03 PM
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i think terminator ran a 200 shot or something big like that on a stock bottom end....
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by cjg454ss
i have an 02 ss making 420 at the wheels n/a, im very knowledgable on nitrous and wanted to know what everyone thought about running a 250 whp on a stock bottem end. anyone doing this? i would be around 675 at the wheels. much past the threshold of the bottem end. i know the 02s are a little stronger and i run a fjo progressive controller. i just wanted to know what you guys thought.

also what is the hp limit on a walbro fuel pump. i have a wideband to check but would just like to know when i would need to add a bigger pump a boosta pump.

If your serious about running that large of a shot, I'd get a dedicated fuel system and then you wouldn't have to worry about the fuel.

Is the N20 a wet or dry?

I would not spray that much on a stock piston let alone the bottom end
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 10:03 PM
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We had a car with nearly an identical setup. Mild heads and cam making about 415 rwhp NA. On two stages it made 665-675 rwhp. We did a 125 dry and a 125 TNT wet. 104 octane unleaded and NGK BP7EFS plugs gapped at .030 timing was around 22-24 degrees. First stage on at 3200 second stage on at 4900 and shifted at around 6800.

Car died finally when the owner was trying to chase down a vette that had a head start...they went well into 5th gear and he did not have enough octane to cover the extra load in 5th gear. He burnt detonated and burnt a valve and part of the head. Stock Bottom was actually ok.

It can be done...just have to watch the tune and use plenty of octane.
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 10:04 PM
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just get it on film man.
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by oner
just get it on film man.
x2
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by BOTTLEFEDLS1Z
If your serious about running that large of a shot, I'd get a dedicated fuel system and then you wouldn't have to worry about the fuel.

Is the N20 a wet or dry?

I would not spray that much on a stock piston let alone the bottom end
its a went kit. i was thinking about spraying some alky in there to cool valves and the pistons.
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by cjg454ss
its a went kit. i was thinking about spraying some alky in there to cool valves and the pistons.

If you do that, I still think your on borrowed time. Honestly I don't know what to say. Dude, you could be fine and run a 250 for years, you just never know. Do you have the funds to rebuild a shortblock readily available? That should be the question. If you do then spray away and let us know how many bottles the motor took before it let go.....
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by BOTTLEFEDLS1Z
If you do that, I still think your on borrowed time. Honestly I don't know what to say. Dude, you could be fine and run a 250 for years, you just never know. Do you have the funds to rebuild a shortblock readily available? That should be the question. If you do then spray away and let us know how many bottles the motor took before it let go.....

i have the money, i was just wondering how big i could go. i might just swap out the pistons and rods for some forged ones and some arp bolts. whats the most guys are shooting on just swapped forged rods and pistons w apr bolts? 300? 400? shots
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 07:43 PM
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It's not so much the hit size, but overall hp and torque. With torque being more of the killer. Hitting to much at to low of an rpm will introduce cylinder pressures that could cause damage ie: ring land. Then on the top end detonation is the worse enemy, so watch timing, fuel octane, plug heat range and the such. The key is to work your way up watching the tune and parameters. I would run rich and low timing with high octane if ya want it to live. I am doing a 250rwhp but my over all hp is lower, and I break my hit up so as to have a milder torque curve (read: low rpm torque spike). We will be seeing a 300rwhp shot this spring, and I allready have 200 sprayed passes, so it could go anytime.
Robert
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 11:15 PM
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I would just add that a stand alone fuel system is a must high ocatne fuel (Highest possible) with a 300hp shot @ 22 degrees a cold plug definately break up the shot (2 stage)
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Old Feb 21, 2007 | 08:01 PM
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so you guys are opposed to alky injection.
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Old Feb 21, 2007 | 10:01 PM
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I run a 225 shot on stock bottom end, and my buddy sprydncamd ta on here is at 445 n/a and like 280 on the bottle stock bottom end. Would recommend a stand alone.
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Old Feb 22, 2007 | 07:44 AM
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When spraying a large shot it is easier on the engine if you break it up into multiple stages or use a progressive controller.
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Old Feb 22, 2007 | 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by cjg454ss
i have the money, i was just wondering how big i could go. i might just swap out the pistons and rods for some forged ones and some arp bolts. whats the most guys are shooting on just swapped forged rods and pistons w apr bolts? 300? 400? shots
Figure you're shooting an additional 50hp per cylinder with a 400shot. As long as the tune is right it should be no problem with forged pistons and rods. Whats the next weak link at that level? Do the head like to lift on these motors?
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Old Feb 22, 2007 | 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
We had a car with nearly an identical setup. Mild heads and cam making about 415 rwhp NA. On two stages it made 665-675 rwhp. We did a 125 dry and a 125 TNT wet. 104 octane unleaded and NGK BP7EFS plugs gapped at .030 timing was around 22-24 degrees. First stage on at 3200 second stage on at 4900 and shifted at around 6800.

Car died finally when the owner was trying to chase down a vette that had a head start...they went well into 5th gear and he did not have enough octane to cover the extra load in 5th gear. He burnt detonated and burnt a valve and part of the head. Stock Bottom was actually ok.

It can be done...just have to watch the tune and use plenty of octane.
Red SS ls1 Camaro?
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Nasty Hawk
I run a 225 shot on stock bottom end, and my buddy sprydncamd ta on here is at 445 n/a and like 280 on the bottle stock bottom end. Would recommend a stand alone.

considered everything and went standalone thanks
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Bad Habit Bird
When spraying a large shot it is easier on the engine if you break it up into multiple stages or use a progressive controller.
+1
I have a nos digital progressive. My thinking is if you can gradually bring the hit on then it would be like running FI. You see what the FI guys are doing with the stock stuff.
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jester1
+1
I have a nos digital progressive. My thinking is if you can gradually bring the hit on then it would be like running FI. You see what the FI guys are doing with the stock stuff.
Here's an overlay of some dyno runs comparing a dry hit set to come on progressively, without a progresser, and a turbo, pretty close. (click tabs for hp or torque curves)
My dry hit (135rwhp) in dyno overlay was in dual stage, so you get the benifits of not beating the hell out of your noids, and still getting the progressive nature on the hit. Also, my peak tq was 503, same as turbo, and peak HP was 480, however it wasn't transfered that way?
Dyno Overlay N2o Dry vs Turbo vs stock
Robert
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert56@NitrousDirect
Here's an overlay of some dyno runs comparing a dry hit set to come on progressively, without a progresser, and a turbo, pretty close. (click tabs for hp or torque curves)
My dry hit (135rwhp) in dyno overlay was in dual stage, so you get the benifits of not beating the hell out of your noids, and still getting the progressive nature on the hit. Also, my peak tq was 503, same as turbo, and peak HP was 480, however it wasn't transfered that way?
Dyno Overlay N2o Dry vs Turbo vs stock
Robert
Great info. How did you setup your dual stage, what hp at what rpm?
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