Finally found a new project car
Finally found a new project car Its a 2000 Z28 stripper with 89K miles
Hardtop
manual cloth seats
manual windows (aftermarket power installed, that will come out)
Manual mirrors
manual rear hatch release
no cruise control
No foglights
Auto with 2.73 gears
only option is the rear defogger
Originally this car was at Autoway Toyota taken as a trade. They wanted $8900 for it originally. I went and looked at it and it was rough. Front bumper has paint issues (not a big deal to me) and the motor had very very low oil pressure. So they lowered the price..but still wanted nearly $7000 for it. So i passed.
Three weeks later I see it at Auto America advertised in the autotrader. They wanted $6900 for it. So I went and looked at it....they got it from the auction and had no clue of the oil pressure. I showed up to the dealer just as they were discovering the oil issue...it was on the lift at the dealer. So I talk to one ******** sales guy who tells me thats not the same car that was at Autoway Toyota and was asking how the hell I know it has issues? Guy was a real jerk. So I gave him my number and told him to call me when they figured out the motor needed work. Of course he never called. So then I call back tuesday. They still have it and said it was going to wholsale auction. So I went down there again and talked to a guy who was the owners right hand man. A Non salesman. He calls the owner and they talk for a bit and he then tells me I can have it for what they bought it for and no dealer fees. $4600. So I went and picked up my bank draft today at Macdill and picked up the new race car
Drove it home just fine. Oil pressure gets VERY low when its hot. But the motor should be just fine for a rebuild. It will just get some forged pistons and new bearings for now. Stock rods and stock crank with rod bolts. Probably go with a TH350 from Fernando. Or mybe have him do the 4l60.
It will also be lightened quite a bit the interior will stay stock appearing.
Ill shoot for around 700-750 crank HP on spray and take up where I left off with my old car. The old car was running 10.2 with a stock cam only motor, el cheapo stuff ( LS1 intake mild cam, pacesetter headers, single stage 150 dry shot, etc) It dynoed around 460-470 rwhp with the Th400.
I want this one to go deep in the nines with a large cam and two stages of juice. This one will be lighter as well.
I want to start this project taking into account everything I learned from all the previous mistakes from the black car.
Hardtop
manual cloth seats
manual windows (aftermarket power installed, that will come out)
Manual mirrors
manual rear hatch release
no cruise control
No foglights
Auto with 2.73 gears
only option is the rear defogger
Originally this car was at Autoway Toyota taken as a trade. They wanted $8900 for it originally. I went and looked at it and it was rough. Front bumper has paint issues (not a big deal to me) and the motor had very very low oil pressure. So they lowered the price..but still wanted nearly $7000 for it. So i passed.
Three weeks later I see it at Auto America advertised in the autotrader. They wanted $6900 for it. So I went and looked at it....they got it from the auction and had no clue of the oil pressure. I showed up to the dealer just as they were discovering the oil issue...it was on the lift at the dealer. So I talk to one ******** sales guy who tells me thats not the same car that was at Autoway Toyota and was asking how the hell I know it has issues? Guy was a real jerk. So I gave him my number and told him to call me when they figured out the motor needed work. Of course he never called. So then I call back tuesday. They still have it and said it was going to wholsale auction. So I went down there again and talked to a guy who was the owners right hand man. A Non salesman. He calls the owner and they talk for a bit and he then tells me I can have it for what they bought it for and no dealer fees. $4600. So I went and picked up my bank draft today at Macdill and picked up the new race car
Drove it home just fine. Oil pressure gets VERY low when its hot. But the motor should be just fine for a rebuild. It will just get some forged pistons and new bearings for now. Stock rods and stock crank with rod bolts. Probably go with a TH350 from Fernando. Or mybe have him do the 4l60.
It will also be lightened quite a bit the interior will stay stock appearing.
Ill shoot for around 700-750 crank HP on spray and take up where I left off with my old car. The old car was running 10.2 with a stock cam only motor, el cheapo stuff ( LS1 intake mild cam, pacesetter headers, single stage 150 dry shot, etc) It dynoed around 460-470 rwhp with the Th400.
I want this one to go deep in the nines with a large cam and two stages of juice. This one will be lighter as well.
I want to start this project taking into account everything I learned from all the previous mistakes from the black car.
Good find! With all that money you saved your plans should happen rather quickly. The best part is not having a car note to pay every month. Good luck with your new car.
AWESOME!!!!
Did exactly what you should do in that situation, talk to someone in "the know" that has decision making abilities! We have a 70k 02 Z28 6speed we took in with the same problems that I've been trying to buy, hahaha. And I'm an employee, haha.
How light was the other car? You doing a two stage dry setup? or would you do a dry/wet dual?
Did exactly what you should do in that situation, talk to someone in "the know" that has decision making abilities! We have a 70k 02 Z28 6speed we took in with the same problems that I've been trying to buy, hahaha. And I'm an employee, haha.
How light was the other car? You doing a two stage dry setup? or would you do a dry/wet dual?
The other car was probably 3100 without me. I want this one to be sub 3000. I made some mistakes with the other one...like a steel cage instead of moly, etc etc.
It will be a dual stage dry. I have done the ole simple formula of a Walbro intank with volt blaster, 42 lb injectors, and two stages of dry with dry retard tuning several times. its a gaurenteed simple and reliable setup. Good for about 750-780 crank hp.
Both stages dry..probably 130/130 or so.
It will be a dual stage dry. I have done the ole simple formula of a Walbro intank with volt blaster, 42 lb injectors, and two stages of dry with dry retard tuning several times. its a gaurenteed simple and reliable setup. Good for about 750-780 crank hp.
Both stages dry..probably 130/130 or so.
That's great Al, we needed ya back into the loop. How long do you think before it will be ready for some strip testing? Why was steel over moly such a big deal, weight?
Robert
Robert
yes weight. That mild steel is HEAVY!!!!!!!
It will take a few months Im sure. First up is pull the motor to get it rebuilt with forged pistons with rod bolts and a tranny/converter. During that time the gutting witll begin.
It will take a few months Im sure. First up is pull the motor to get it rebuilt with forged pistons with rod bolts and a tranny/converter. During that time the gutting witll begin.
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Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
yes weight. That mild steel is HEAVY!!!!!!!
It will take a few months Im sure. First up is pull the motor to get it rebuilt with forged pistons with rod bolts and a tranny/converter. During that time the gutting witll begin.
It will take a few months Im sure. First up is pull the motor to get it rebuilt with forged pistons with rod bolts and a tranny/converter. During that time the gutting witll begin.
Robert
Al,
Thats great. I guess you found the deal you were waiting for. Let me know if I can help with anything on those two stages. lol
By the way the auto and 273s are great.lol
Dave
Thats great. I guess you found the deal you were waiting for. Let me know if I can help with anything on those two stages. lol
By the way the auto and 273s are great.lol
Dave
Originally Posted by gator's 99TA
i have a feeling al will dump that silly 2.73 gear
Dave
