FPSS wiring?
FPSS digram shows the white wire from relay #85 to the FPSS then to ground.
The main diagram shows the yellow first stage wire from the window switch to #85 on the relay.
What are my options, I have the fuel noid mounted next to the fuel rail and grounded thru an intake bolt right next to it and the window switch is in the glove box.
TIA
The main diagram shows the yellow first stage wire from the window switch to #85 on the relay.
What are my options, I have the fuel noid mounted next to the fuel rail and grounded thru an intake bolt right next to it and the window switch is in the glove box.
TIA
Originally Posted by SY732
Thanks
What PSI you setting it at?
I have mine as well but have not installed it. I was reading 63PSI on my guage on the fuel rails, so what should you dial it in at?
Can I use an air fitting and adjustable air regulator to dial it in? Thanks
Trending Topics
pressure directly effects flow rate. Most posts have said 35psi (and I think that's where mfg set them at) as a minimum. I used 45psi because if my pressure is dropping at all, I want the damn thing off. Lean is not your friend. And yes, use the air pres. to dial it in.
I understand that portion... I just dont know how much of a fuel pressure drop will result in a lean status then a potential melt down.
I see 63psi at idle. So, would it be safe to set it at 55psi?
I see 63psi at idle. So, would it be safe to set it at 55psi?
OK... I finally dialed the switch to ~50psi.. A question on the wiring. Since the FPSS will be mounted right next to the N20 soleniod, can I just run the FPSS in series with one of the N20 wires?
If the FPSS runs below the dialed in pressure it will just cut the curcuit and no more juice. Will this work?
If the FPSS runs below the dialed in pressure it will just cut the curcuit and no more juice. Will this work?
I think 50psi is a little high, but up to you. You can use the fpss on the noid line however noids draw a lot of current. If you're using some of the new "big" noids, it may not be able to handle that much current. If you MUST put it there, use another relay. I would suggest just running lines and stay off the noids.
Originally Posted by waterbug1999
OK... I finally dialed the switch to ~50psi.. A question on the wiring. Since the FPSS will be mounted right next to the N20 soleniod, can I just run the FPSS in series with one of the N20 wires?
If the FPSS runs below the dialed in pressure it will just cut the curcuit and no more juice. Will this work?
If the FPSS runs below the dialed in pressure it will just cut the curcuit and no more juice. Will this work?
Originally Posted by Todd157k
I think 50psi is a little high, but up to you. You can use the fpss on the noid line however noids draw a lot of current. If you're using some of the new "big" noids, it may not be able to handle that much current. If you MUST put it there, use another relay. I would suggest just running lines and stay off the noids.
Originally Posted by waterbug1999
I guess ill just put it in series with #85 then.. I am running at 63PSI at idle off the rail. So, does the fuel pressure drop ~13psi under WOT?
Put a fp gauge on the fuel rail and test the drop.
I assume if it is too close (high) it will hit stumble (shut off) and hit again is this bad? what if it happens once then you adjust it?
Guest
Posts: n/a
the thing is...the FPSS is designed to shut the kit off in case of fuel pump failure, not fuel pump hp limitations. Not saying it won't shut it down because the pump can't keep up....but you can create more headaches by setting the FPSS to high.
There is not a set psi that it needs to be set, each car is a little different...that is why we tell people to set it on the car with the kit activated...this is setting it to the flowing fuel pressure, not the static pressure.
There is not a set psi that it needs to be set, each car is a little different...that is why we tell people to set it on the car with the kit activated...this is setting it to the flowing fuel pressure, not the static pressure.


