First pass I had the limiters at 3" travel, but have no adjustment in between (I think i'm gonna get the cable style, cuz these ****** chain ones don't give any adjustability or i'm just not doin something right, cuz even with the bottom mount moved out close to the ball joint and longer chain I have almost no adjustability). She spun, but went a new best 1/8th mph, so I figured the limiters caused me to spin, so I took 'em off and put the 2nd stage delay at .9 instead of .1, still spun and went slower, so I brought the second stage in a little sooner (.3) since I wasn't hookin and still spun, but got some mph back and ran that pass out and got my best ever mph! (I knew it too, cuz I have never had my shift light come on before the traps and it did this time, so I was like freakin out in the car, hahaha) (first two I hit the brakes hard after the 1/8th to not get kicked out since I haven't gotten the license yet, although I did get the chassis cert last week).

Here's the rundown on the passes:

First Pass:

1.425
3.990
6.122
115.01 - New Best

Second Pass:

1.463
4.050
6.199
114.38

Third Pass:

1.439
3.986
6.129
114.85
7.980
9.550
143.74 - New Best

I don't know what was up with not hookin, but it was humid as a ************ and I think that was the problem, cuz I heard quite a few others complaining about lack of traction as well. I'm also still running way rich, dippin 9's a/f ratio, gotta play with some stuff to get it leaned out some, cuz I know with that a/f i'm leavin some on the table!

I'll have some vids to add to this thread as soon as my buddy gets them up!

 

Congrats man! I always love watchin your car fly!

 

Thanks dude!

By the way, here is the video, gotta see if I can get the raw footage and make a vid out of it, my three runs are intertwined with a bunch of other guys:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ICmDTnXbODo

 

good job bud, looks like sheis rippin!!

from that last run looks like i would say go 1 click loose on the rear shocks

also, how old are your tires? and what psi are they at?

 

Thanks dude, I don't usually have an issue hooking, it's usually the opposite, hooks too hard, last night a bunch of people were complaining, so I think the track just wasn't there, but if it happens again i'll keep it in mind to try and loosen the rear shocks to work the car around the track conditions. The tires have maybe 10 passes on 'em tops and are at 12 psi cold where I always have 'em.

 

yhea, all depends on the track, a good track hooksto good, 1 click does alot, a track hooking like ****, 1 click does alot.

i remember last year, everyone saying, man, the track sucks, the track sucks. so right away, bing bang to my car, bing bang to the other car with me, and both of us where hooking 1.3x

adjustment need to be maid when the track goes away.
great runs either way!!!

 

good stuff...at first i thought i had the wrong video. lol.

 

Cool man, i'll definately keep it in mind to try next time, thanks dude!

 

Hahaha, yeah, I gotta get the raw footage from my buddy!

 

Anytime you want to race your slow car against my 13 second FAST car let me know...... hahahhahahah


Good Job!!!!! I'll probably never know what it's like to be in a 9 second car.

 

Nice, congrats on the new best in a couple areas. It is just a matter of time before everything comes together and ya knock a couple tenths off that ET. All your hard work is paying off.
Robert

 

congrats on your new times and you have a bad *** car and set up .

 

Thanks Robert!!!

I actually have a question for you guys. On the spray I run 20 degrees of timing instead of 27 and #8 plugs instead of #6's. I am running pig rich on the spray, but it's weird, I get a nasty lean spike which goes away fairly quick, then it holds where I want it, around high 10's a/f ratio, then a little after I hit 2nd gear it gets super fat, mid 9's a/f ratio. But the 02 readings aren't changing, seein like 950's - 970's on the 02's. Which should I trust more, the wideband or the 02's? And if i'm dipping that rich, why and how much am I leaving on the table and where exactly do I want to shoot for on the 300 shot? Also, should I make a motor pass with the #8 plugs and 20 degrees of timing and see where it's at on motor, cuz i'm assuming it's probably gonna be richer, maybe it needs to be leaned out more on the motor too begin with, what do you guys think? If any of you have efilive, I can post up my logs from the 3 runs for you to take a look at.

 

Thanks man!

 

are you still on your dry kit? or are you wet?

if its a wet kit. you may need a jetted return line from your fuel noids.

 

The entire kit is wet now, it's an nx dual stage maf kit. I'm not really worried about the lean spike, i'm more worried about gettin it leaned out a little to stay around high 10's - low 11's a/f ratio throughout the run cuz i'm sure i'm leavin quite a bit on the table when the a/f dips low 9's after I hit second gear. But how would I set up a jetted return line from the noids, I have the HSW standalone, would be nice to get rid of the spike and probably make it easier to tune the pressure and everything on the big end if I didn't have to worry about it goin lean in the beginning!

 

you have to tap a line right befor your fuel noids.
you do some quick math, and put a jet inline. just enoph to get rid of the air, bubles ect. then run it back to your fuel cell.
this way when you hit the spray no air is intrduced to the motor. its kind of like a purge for fuel.

as for air fuel ect. read your plugs. that it the ONLY true way to know how the car is running.
its like my sled. i have an egt gauge on both cylenders, but just because my egt is in the right range doesnt mean its the right range for the motor.
are you sure it is rich? did you check the plugs?
if so, try taking a little fuel from your stand alone. if your running say 7 psi on the stand alone, flow it to 6.5, then go from there.
it may not be the motor tune, it might be when you spray, you may be fat

 

looking good

 

Yeah, i'm sure it's the spray, on motor it is dialed in perfect, but i've never dialed it in with #8 plugs and 20 degrees of timing. I need to read my plugs, i'm just scared to cut the motor goin thru the traps over 140 and have no power brakes, i'll give it a try next time though. My standalone runs on high pressure to match the maf kit ratings, so it's at like 60 psi, I could run it low pressure, but dunno what size jets to run for the shot if I do that. I didn't realize the return was for air, thought it was to help the pressure stabilize to get rid of the lean spike, I motor purge the car, so that purges the fuel too, so I doubt there is any air in the line, right?

 

well, it still could need to jet change to lean it out a little. maybe step 1 jet leaner on the fuel side.
i never had an issue cutting power. just dont turn it all the way back and lock the wheel. i did that once i almost pee'd. lol

as for the motor purge, the fuel flowing can still make bubles, and yes, it does regulate it.
i like low pressure much better. its much easier to tune.
but your plug reading is going to be more accurate then any gauges will be.
like i said, ive seen guys melt pistions at 1100* on sleds, and mine runs its best around 1150-1200! its all in the plug reading.
gauges are good for a dial in, but plugs are the true test