Pls critique my wiring diagram - NOS dry system
04-12-2007, 08:13 AM
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Pls critique my wiring diagram - NOS dry system Hi, been doing a lot of reading/research here as I prepare to do my first nitrous install. Figured it was time to stop "lurking" and start posting.
One of the things I have been studying is the wiring. The wiring diagram sticky at the top of this forum was invaluable. I've just finished my own diagram and was hoping you could critique it for me. Let me know whether you see any glaring errors, omissions, or just have some advice. One thing I don't have on the diagram yet for example are inline fuses. Not sure yet where it would be best to put one or more although I am thinking somewhere along the switched 12V + wire.
Thanks a million! -Matt
One of the things I have been studying is the wiring. The wiring diagram sticky at the top of this forum was invaluable. I've just finished my own diagram and was hoping you could critique it for me. Let me know whether you see any glaring errors, omissions, or just have some advice. One thing I don't have on the diagram yet for example are inline fuses. Not sure yet where it would be best to put one or more although I am thinking somewhere along the switched 12V + wire.
Thanks a million! -Matt
04-12-2007, 08:46 AM
#2
I'm not sure why you'd still allow solenoid #1 to open if the fuel pressure's down, and I'd distinguish a little better between the +12V and switched sources. Arming switch and purge button would want their positive singal to come from ignition/switched, whereas all the solenoids should get their positive signal from the battery. The opener should be fine either way.
04-12-2007, 08:58 AM
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Thanks very much for the quick feedback.
Regarding the solenoids. My understanding of the theory of the NOS Dry EFI system is that it uses the two nitrous solenoids "connected in series" as a safety measure. My understanding was that the system was to be wired so that you first open just the first solenoid. This allows nitrous to flow to and pressurize the mechanical regulator (located next in line). The regulator in turn will spike fuel pressure. Once the fuel pressure safety switch sees that the FP is spiked satisfactorily it then grounds the 2nd solenoid causing it to open and allowing nitrous to flow to the engine. In this way the 2nd solenoid will never open unless you have proper fuel pressure. That was the intent of wiring the FPSS just to the 2nd solenoid. I'll have to go back and check but I blelieve that is how NOS recommends it.
What is the benefit to having the power to the nitrous solenoids non-switched? I've always tried to be careful about wiring anything directly to 12V for fear of inadvertantly draining the battery if something shorts, etc., particularly since this car doesn't get used all that often. I just figured if everything is switched (via the ignition) I was protecting the battery.
p.s. Only questioning to better understand! Thanks again!
-Matt
Regarding the solenoids. My understanding of the theory of the NOS Dry EFI system is that it uses the two nitrous solenoids "connected in series" as a safety measure. My understanding was that the system was to be wired so that you first open just the first solenoid. This allows nitrous to flow to and pressurize the mechanical regulator (located next in line). The regulator in turn will spike fuel pressure. Once the fuel pressure safety switch sees that the FP is spiked satisfactorily it then grounds the 2nd solenoid causing it to open and allowing nitrous to flow to the engine. In this way the 2nd solenoid will never open unless you have proper fuel pressure. That was the intent of wiring the FPSS just to the 2nd solenoid. I'll have to go back and check but I blelieve that is how NOS recommends it.
What is the benefit to having the power to the nitrous solenoids non-switched? I've always tried to be careful about wiring anything directly to 12V for fear of inadvertantly draining the battery if something shorts, etc., particularly since this car doesn't get used all that often. I just figured if everything is switched (via the ignition) I was protecting the battery.
p.s. Only questioning to better understand! Thanks again!
-Matt
Last edited by Matt Kennedy; 04-12-2007 at 09:14 AM.
04-12-2007, 09:22 AM
#4
Two things I see Matt. First, you'll need a 10k resistor on the led or you'll toast it. Vary the value for the intensity you want. Secondly, I would suggest you get the FPSS off the current side of the circuit. The solenoid firing can draw a LOT of current. Put it on the low side... even up with your wot/lock out switches, or anywhere on the 85/86 lines.
I also agree with the above. Better watch where you tap for switched 12v. Lots 'o current.
I also agree with the above. Better watch where you tap for switched 12v. Lots 'o current.
Last edited by Todd157k; 04-12-2007 at 09:45 AM.
04-12-2007, 12:19 PM
#5
Ok well I'm not familiar on NOS's setup, so I can't comment on that.
If you wire the solenoids' relay to a switched source you might blow a fuse somewhere else when they activate, 'cause technically those switched sources "belong" to some other device on your car. Another thing to consider is the AWG and length of the wire. While there may exist a really thick, switched, +12V wire for you to power your 'noids with, you could be maxing it (the wire) out, possibly resulting in a fire or melted plastic.
Basically, the way I'd do it is hook up the arming switch to a switched source, and then the arming switch sends it's signal to your WOT switches, which in turn send the final signal to the relay. If your key is out, then obviously no signal will get to the arming switch, or to the WOT switch, or to the relay to pull from the battery.
Does that make sense or did I just confuse you?
If you wire the solenoids' relay to a switched source you might blow a fuse somewhere else when they activate, 'cause technically those switched sources "belong" to some other device on your car. Another thing to consider is the AWG and length of the wire. While there may exist a really thick, switched, +12V wire for you to power your 'noids with, you could be maxing it (the wire) out, possibly resulting in a fire or melted plastic.
Basically, the way I'd do it is hook up the arming switch to a switched source, and then the arming switch sends it's signal to your WOT switches, which in turn send the final signal to the relay. If your key is out, then obviously no signal will get to the arming switch, or to the WOT switch, or to the relay to pull from the battery.
Does that make sense or did I just confuse you?
04-12-2007, 02:31 PM
#6
If you are doing dual redundant noids, you'll want to wired them up in series. They're in parallel on your schematic. One will fire without regard for the other. Since they have seperate grounds.
What I think you should do, is leave them wired as is, and move the FPSS to either the window switch ground, or in the middle of the white wire between 85 and the window switch. This way 1) the FPSS will affect both N2O noids, and 2) as mentioned you shouldn't use an FPSS to ground high amp loads (like the noids), its better to keep it on low amp loads (like the window switch) because it doesn't have a high current capacity.
Also I'm confused as to how you have your arm switch wired up, since the bottle heater schematic isn't shown. Or is it just sharing the +12V wire from the switched source?
What I think you should do, is leave them wired as is, and move the FPSS to either the window switch ground, or in the middle of the white wire between 85 and the window switch. This way 1) the FPSS will affect both N2O noids, and 2) as mentioned you shouldn't use an FPSS to ground high amp loads (like the noids), its better to keep it on low amp loads (like the window switch) because it doesn't have a high current capacity.
Also I'm confused as to how you have your arm switch wired up, since the bottle heater schematic isn't shown. Or is it just sharing the +12V wire from the switched source?
04-12-2007, 03:37 PM
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I might have two instruction sheets confused. Have a bit more homework to do. Thanks for all the comments. Need to do some more reading here.
Last edited by Matt Kennedy; 04-12-2007 at 03:52 PM.
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04-12-2007, 09:36 PM
#9
A few things I see. First, if this is a ls1 or a lt1? Your trying to wire your noids for an lt1 setup.
Second, your trying to power everything from your 12v switch source witch is tied in with your window switch 12v source? Where is the logic here? Your supplying voltage to everything once the key is on? Where is the battery supplied voltage (non switched) going into the WS? Just think of the WS as another relay or sw, it will only supply power to the noids in your selected rpm range. You see now haow having the switched 12v on the out side is trying to supply everything once key is on? Not good.
You need a main 12v battery supply to each circuit ie: purge, main noids, opener, heater. You will fry your system this way, guranteed. So, you need a 12 volt switched source to each activation sw, this is the low amp side of the relays. All your relays together on the low amp side will not equal 1 amp so don't worry about over loading the low amp switched 12v source. Then on the high amp side of the relays, this is where you need a good battery 12v source, with proper sized/gauge wire, and a fuse. This way each item has it's own circuit and fuse on the high amp side.
The small NOS noids can be grounded through the fpss, but imo not ideal. Also, like was suggested, grounds together on the main noids. The redundant noids on the lsx platform is a safety thing in case one fails you have back up.
If you can post the schematic of your WS that would be good. We want to make sure it's the style that can handle the high amp load of directly powering your noids. Not all WS's are created equal.
Sorry if I confused you, and/or myself
. We are trying to cover a lot of ground here. Don't run it the way you have it. We will walk you through it. Just take each item as a seperate circuit and you'll be fine.
Robert
Second, your trying to power everything from your 12v switch source witch is tied in with your window switch 12v source? Where is the logic here? Your supplying voltage to everything once the key is on? Where is the battery supplied voltage (non switched) going into the WS? Just think of the WS as another relay or sw, it will only supply power to the noids in your selected rpm range. You see now haow having the switched 12v on the out side is trying to supply everything once key is on? Not good.
You need a main 12v battery supply to each circuit ie: purge, main noids, opener, heater. You will fry your system this way, guranteed. So, you need a 12 volt switched source to each activation sw, this is the low amp side of the relays. All your relays together on the low amp side will not equal 1 amp so don't worry about over loading the low amp switched 12v source. Then on the high amp side of the relays, this is where you need a good battery 12v source, with proper sized/gauge wire, and a fuse. This way each item has it's own circuit and fuse on the high amp side.
The small NOS noids can be grounded through the fpss, but imo not ideal. Also, like was suggested, grounds together on the main noids. The redundant noids on the lsx platform is a safety thing in case one fails you have back up.
If you can post the schematic of your WS that would be good. We want to make sure it's the style that can handle the high amp load of directly powering your noids. Not all WS's are created equal.
Sorry if I confused you, and/or myself
. We are trying to cover a lot of ground here. Don't run it the way you have it. We will walk you through it. Just take each item as a seperate circuit and you'll be fine.Robert
04-12-2007, 10:18 PM
#10
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Like already said, put a resistor on your LED. At least 500 ohm. Put all your safety switches on the same run. Run your switches off your 12 v switched, but run them to relays. Put pin # 30 right to the batteries, fused of course with # 10 or 12 wire. The switches wont last long under high amp loads. 2 nos noids 15-20 amps, bottle opener 5 - 10 amps and the heater could draw more than 10. Remember, these relays are normally down. Protect the wires and dont worry about false activation.
