Hi i am new to nitrous and i want to know everything i need to know about getting into nitrous i have a 2002 SS m6 with full exhaust and i want a pretty safe setup. Thanks

 

Start with the stickys on the nitrous forum since the search is screwed up right now. All the info is out there, just gotta find it.

 

$2000 for a dry 100-150. includes tune or a tuning program.

 

Yep read the stickies at the top of the forum, decide on what type of kit you interested in (wet, Dry, or both), then the specific kit (nozzle, Plate, Direct Port). Then ask questions.

Generally most will agree 125-150 shot no problem.

 

ive read the stickies at things and been looking through random post for awhile now i cant decide on dry, wet, ect or nozzle and things of that nature thats why i was hoping for just random knowledge on everything!

 

first off, with any amount or kind of spray, your clutch probably wont live long.
dry hits softer and imo is better on a street car/street tire it acts like traction control.
i run dry in my vett, but my clutch is alreay hurt wont hold up to the spray anymore.

i am a firm believer in SIMPLE. simple is less things the screw up.

get a kit, heater, and window switch.
im also a big believer in the simple wot switch for under the gas or t-body cable.

i do run the NX controler in my vett and it has been good, but i ran older styles in my race car and went back to old faithful the $3.00 switch.

hope this helps alittle

 

Yeah i plan on a clutch but what are some of the best kits dry or wet any personal recomendations? and what shot size with my mods? thanks alot for the help

 

without injectors or tune or fuel pump i personally would stay 100-125 dry and 100-150 wet, but i live on the nitrous edge.

as for kits, LS1tech has some of the best suport around. any one of the sponsors are A++ or they would not be here.

Nitro dave, HSW,Dyno tune, NX ect ect all great kits. poke around on there sites, see pricing and what kit best fits you.
options are also a good thing. some sponsors offer custom bottles, brackets ect ect.
poke around, pm sponsors, you'll find what you want.

 

I recently purchased from Nitro Dave and Ray was very helpful. I asked for everything I needed to make it "safer" and he gave me this info...

As fas as safety equipment, there are 2 items I feel are almost neccassary.

1) Fuel Pressure Safety Switch: ($49) The fuel pressure safety switch is a safety device that is designed to shut off the nitrous system in the event of fuel pump failure. This switch is pressure controlled and will wire in conjunction to the systems relay. In the event the fuel pump fails it will break the ground source to the system relay.

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...roduct_id=2553

2) Window Safety Switch: ($129) The window safety switch is designed to keep you from spraying under to low of a rpm or over revving your engine. The window switch gives you two settings, an activation rpm and a deactivation rpm. You will set the activation point to at least 3000 RPM. When the system is activated, the TPS or wide-open throttle switch sees wide-open throttle it will complete the positive circuit to the systems relay. The window switch will read the engine RPM. When it rises to the set RPM on the window switch, the switch will supply ground to the systems relay, completing the circuit and firing the solenoids. In the incident the driver misses a gear, transmission slips, rear end or driveshaft breaks causing the engine to over rev the window switch will take away the ground to the solenoids at the set RPM on the switch shutting off the nitrous system. We suggest setting the deactivation RPM for the window switch at the shift point or 200 to 300 RPM before rev limiter.

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...product_id=964

These 2 items will give you the basic safety items.

The rest of the accessories will either increase your kits performance or give it more consistency.

1. Bottle Heater: Bottle pressure is very important to a proper operating nitrous system. We suggest tuning your Nitrous Outlet system with a bottle pressure of 950 to 1050 PSI. A bottle heater will be needed to keep your system at the needed pressure so that the nitrous flows correctly. As it cools off outside creating a chill on the bottle or you start to use your system your bottle pressure will drop causing your engine to bog and lose horsepower.

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...product_id=693

2. Purge: The purge system is needed for more than producing a cool show for your buddies. A purge kit is needed to evacuate the air from the main feed line. This will eliminate the system from bogging the engine due to the fuel hitting before the nitrous, causing the engine to go rich upon the initial hit. By purging the air from the main feed line you will improve 60-foot times and have a harder hitting nitrous system. The purge kit can also be used to purge down excessive bottle pressure.

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...product_id=243

3. Nitrous Pressure Gauge: since knowing your bottle pressure is very important you will need a nitrous pressure gauge in order to watch bottle pressure. Nitrous Outlet offers a nitrous pressure gauge that mounts to the bottle as well as in the cockpit of the vehicle.

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...roduct_id=2132

4. Fuel Pressure Gauge: being aware of the fuel pressure is the best way to know the limits of the fuel system. By monitoring the fuel pressure you will know if the fuel system is being extended. Nitrous Outlet offers mechanical gauges to mount in the engine compartment as well as electrical gauges to go in the cockpit of your vehicle.

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...product_id=249

5. TPS Activation Switch: Most late model fuel injected applications are drive by wire (NO THROTTLE CABLE). These applications require a TPS activation switch in order to activate your nitrous system at wide-open throttle. The activation switch works by reading the throttle position sensors voltage.

(included with the window switch in the link above)

7. NHRA Valve & Blow Down Tube: In order to meet NHRA requirements you must use a blow down tube if the bottle is located in the vehicle. In order to adapt the blow down tube to the bottle you will need a NHRA approved blow off valve. This valve is threaded on both ends creating an external thread for the blow down tube to screw on. The blow down tube is designed to evacuate the nitrous from the bottle outside the vehicle in the case that the safety disc bursts.

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...product_id=252
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...product_id=251

8. Nitrous Filter: The nitrous filter is used to filter any trash or contaminants from entering your nitrous solenoid.

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...product_id=288

9. Remote Bottle Opener: With the remote bottle opener you can open and close the bottle with out ever leaving the comforts of the driver seat.

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...&product_id=70

All of the different accessories serve their purpose, are they required....no. But they will help you get the most out of the system.








Hope this helps too

 

Well i plan on getting injectors fuel pump and tune and all that stuff i want a good size shoot without forging the motor right away does anyone has any list of there old set ups like including blankets heaters and etc? Also is a directport kit worth it>?

 

Thanks for the help guys