Can I see who's on your Top 10 list. Just like to keep track of the competition.
Robert

 

Robert if you were a fly on the wall at the BBQ on Sunday, you'd be certain I was eating less hog and more crow. I have all but agreed to run a 2 stage system. There is a huge caveat here as well: All year long I've been running dead mid 10s without really pushing the car or myself. After I parked next to the guys (and ladies) from RPM in North Carolina when Pinks All Out was at Rockingham, I was completely overwhealmed with the need to go much faster. My car is now at our shop being gutted and no longer will be a "street car". Hell it wasn't much fun this past spring anyway as far as streetability goes anyway considering the TH400 and fuel $$ etc. Anyway I bought a Honda Civic 3 weeks ago and parked the car at our shop. Back on point, my old Camaro is being morphed into a trailor queen, which will utilize a dual stage system. My immediate plans are to fire it off with the FJO mini at any rate. (Unless Dave can talk me into something else).
I'm so misunderstood!!

 

The sink is full of water now lets drain it.

 

Cool, my goal is to hit a 9.xx and still be able to drive across country with the a/c on, and will be trying with a triple stage dry. This will also be done with two handi-caps: independent rear, and M12. Maybe FJO will produce a nice 3 stage controller, and that would help the massive wiring nest. Time to step the game up, I agree.
Robert

 

Sounds like your making a good choice.

Those guys at RPM know whats up !

 

I'm a BIG fan of Dry kits but after seeing the HP difference between that and a TRUE plate kit (carb style) I want my N20 spraying as close to the valve as possible. My direct port should be done SOON.

Good luck, 9's aint that hard

 

Yes, a true carb plate type set-up is hard to beat. However, the vettes just don't have the room to go this route, and I want to see how far the dry can go. You know we have a thread over at vetteforum, looking for the quickest stock longblock ls6 with any power adder. Well the dry rules the roost, beating out the wet kits, dp kits, the turbo(s) and blowers. This tells a pretty good story in and of itself because there are so many more turbos/wet kits/blowers compared to dry hits, so...
Keep us updated on your DP, I am sure you'll do great running one. One day I would like to try a DP dry, and use the tune and big injectors... Working on a stand alone fuel system right now for the dry guys.
Robert

 

You impell me Rick.

 

Good bye thread...but we need something like a badcassfast Bigstuff 3 that has a built in programmable 5 or 12 vdc outputs for stage firing etc. programmable to pull time a WOT. That would be sweet.

 

If I had BS3 I would do a dry DP

My 1st stage will still be dry, prolly 100 shot to get it out of the hole and loosen the converter up some. Then another 200 on the DP

 

I just bought a FJO mini from Ricky. My decision to go with it was based on the features, it took care of the window and wot switches, and potential traction issues I might encounter. If it beats up my noids once I get home and install everything fine. Noids arnt that expensive. The controll over the system that I gain is worth the possible cost.

 

true noids aren't to much money, however, the real point here is if the wrong noid fails you could be paying for a motor, or an entire car if the intake blows apart and you get one of the burn down scenerios. That's why most don't run progressives, we have enough problems with noids anyway, and adding to this is just one more thing to cause problems. Do a search for nitrous problems/destruction threads, more times than not it's a noid failure that leads to all the other problems, check it out. So if you want to run a progressive, it's really important to stay on top of rebuilding/inspecting noids before an issue arises.
Robert

 

I think i'll start a new thread on this -

 

Robert where is this thread where you set up your system to be "progressive" without progressive controller?