ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

I went to the track last night and it looks as if my nitrous may be blowing through my Fuddle 3400 TC My times N/A and on the 100 shot were pretty much the same. I verified that the nitrous was spraying correctly all the way to the airlid. (HSW single nozzle dry shot)

I made 5 runs total and they were all pretty consistent. Traction was pretty good on each run. I was only trapping between 103 and 105 and my times were between 13.08 and 13.48. The best and worst times were both nitrous runs and the N/A run was 13.39. The bottle had 1100 PSI and was over 1/2 full so that was not an issue.

Last year before the nitrous I ran the exact same setup N/A and I ran 12.9 at 105. This was before I had my car tuned. I had my car tuned because it was running way lean on the nitrous. I had it richened up. The tuner did not use a dyno to tune. It was done with EFILive and a wideband AF gauge.

I am thinking of locking my converter so that the nitrous will not blow through. Is that a good idea? What is the best way to do that?

I do not want to swap out my converter. I am hoping to find a way to get my current converter and my dry kit to work together so that I get maximum results with the two. Any ideas??? THANKS.

ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

Also what are the symptoms of spraying through the converter? My car flashes at 3400 N/A and around 4300 on the nitrous. It shifts around 6200 N/A and on the nitrous.

ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

I should also mention that I am using a window switch set to spray from 3,000 to 6,000 in all gears.

1320FEVER

iTrader: (9)

I would get on a dyno, lock the converter, then make a couple of pulls.
One NA and one N2O. That should tell you something.

ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

Is there a way to lock the converter easily on the dyno? I don't have any tuning software. I think that I read somewhere that you can hook a toggle switch up to the TCC wire on the PCM.

LostCauseZ06

iTrader: (4)

whats the chances your nitrous wasnt spraying? you checked it electrically... your times being the exact same makes no sense.. if its REALLY bad they should be slower and if its just slipping a little you should still see MPH gains and faster ET's

ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

There is no chance that it wasn't spraying. I checked it by removing the nitrous line from the airlid and then sticking it under the wiper. Then I brought the car into the window range > 3,000 RPM and then pushed on the WOT switch. It sprayed fine for several seconds until I pulled my finger off of the switch. This was done before racing and then right after the last run. I also had my wife push on the gas pedal all the way to the floor to make sure the WOT switch is indeed being pushed down (activated) by the throttle when it is floored.

Here are my nitrous times:
RUN#1 - 13.08 @ 103.21 (1.85 60')
RUN#2 - 13.33 @ 103.43 (1.93 60')
RUN#3 - 13.48 @ 105.16 (2.29 60')
RUN#4 - 13.24 @ 103.47 (2.06 60')

Here is my N/A run:
13.39 @ 102.74 (1.97 60')

TwistedSS

iTrader: (3)

I thought a bolton car with a 3200 stall should easily be mid 12's NA with some decent tires.

daniel6718

iTrader: (36)

maybe your not gettin fuel?

ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

I was running high 12's N/A last year. That was before my "nitrous tune".

ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

I don't think that is the case because it was reading 12.2:1 AFR on a wideband sensor when I had it tuned a few weeks ago.

daniel6718

iTrader: (36)

do you have a fpss???

sounds like maybe the n20 is hitting then cutting off...put that thing on the dyno and see whats going on, a 3400 stall is small, ive got e 3600 with 125 shot on it and it pulls gret...bout to put another 75 on top

or clogged noids? or bad ground/power cutting it on/off

ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

I do not have a FPSS.

ultraz

iTrader: (4)

Those numbers definitely dont sound right. I have Lt's and a 3700 Fuddle TC w/ some 255 DR's and im pulling 12.6 at 107-109.

beardWS6

iTrader: (1)

Had the same issue when I sprayed at the track. What was happing was I hit the window switch spraying and it would pull back out. Then go back in as I was going. Pull the top pill out and then spray on the dyno. It will spray all the way threw.You need to raise the window switch pill to a higher setting to help with it. My 3600 stall did this everytime!

ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

I have a Dynotune electronic window switch. Are you saying that I need to spray through the shifts instead of having a 3,000 - 6,000 RPM window? What should I set my window to with my 3400 stall? I am a little confused as to what you are recommending. Thanks for the help.

RDTA

iTrader: (1)

I have a buddy that tried to spray his fuddle. His acted the same way. I guess they just dont like the nitrous. I actually believe he had the samething as you.

ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

I know that there must be some members that are spraying and have Fuddles. Anyone???

daniel6718

iTrader: (36)

i sprayed with afuddle 3200 3.73 gears out back...went 12.0 on motor and 10.8 on 125 shot

beardWS6

iTrader: (1)

No, what I meant is. I had to raise my top pill to get everything to work. Just means when your flashing you converter it is hitting the top pill and pulling the spray out. Once the rpms fall it comes back in. ON the dyno we we sprayed with the top pill and out she did fine. This told me we where hitting the pill. We put a higher pill. Like 6200 or a 6400 to help you, and everything was fixed for me. Some converters just flash really high on spray. Raise your shift points ands raise your top pill and try it. Should fix the problem. Did mine!