Coolant coming out the overflow!!!
Coolant coming out the overflow!!! What causes this? I just got my car tuned for the spray and I noticed that coolant is coming out the overflow and the radiator is half empty. I noticed all this after I was doing a little racing, so the car never got hot and nothing is leaking. It seems to do it on the spray and thats it. I can drive around town with no problems. Head gasket??? Something else? Thoughts, comments??
Same thing Just Happen to me. I didn't smell any coolant, no steam out the exhaust, car drove around just fine too but my radiator would go half full and I could see a very small coolant residue around one of the head bolts.
replace head gaskets. don't push it just replace them befor it cost you more to repair if you gat coolant in one of the cylinders and hydolock the motor and mess up rods and who know's what else so it's sheeper to just replace head gaskets. go with oem mls gaskets and arp head studs wile your at it.
Originally Posted by ls1CANTU
replace head gaskets. don't push it just replace them befor it cost you more to repair if you gat coolant in one of the cylinders and hydolock the motor and mess up rods and who know's what else so it's sheeper to just replace head gaskets. go with oem mls gaskets and arp head studs wile your at it.
Yeah thats the plan. I have GM MLS gaskets and ARP head bolts when they blew. You don't think the cometics are worth it????
i have ran a 250 shot on my car with gm mls gaskets with no problem but now i'm useing cometics because you can up the compression i whent with .040 cometics and that got me 11.74:1 copare to gm mls 11.5:1
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Originally Posted by ls1CANTU
i have ran a 250 shot on my car with gm mls gaskets with no problem but now i'm useing cometics because you can up the compression i whent with .040 cometics and that got me 11.74:1 copare to gm mls 11.5:1
Thats cool. Its a toss up from what I keep hearing. 10 people say MLS and 10 will say cometics, but everybody says head studs.....
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Originally Posted by ls1CANTU
replace head gaskets. don't push it just replace them befor it cost you more to repair if you gat coolant in one of the cylinders and hydolock the motor and mess up rods and who know's what else so it's sheeper to just replace head gaskets. go with oem mls gaskets and arp head studs wile your at it.
Robert
Defiantely OEM. They are basically the same but the OEM is much cheaper. The guys get Cometics generally have to because of non standard bore size.
IMO you probably had a little detonation on juice. Once you comprimise that seal its never than same. The MLS gaskets are great in that they may only bypass on spray after they have been comprimised. They generally will get you home.
However youll have to change them and check the surface of the head and reinstall new gaskets.
You may want to check your tune. Either ruduce the shot size, increase AF ratio, reduce timing or add race gas. Youu have to do something...because if you put new gaskets on you will likley blow them again if you run the exact same setup. Your seal was likley good before...and its detonation that damaged it. If you dont change something....detoantion is likely again...and detanotion will damage ANYTHING!
IMO you probably had a little detonation on juice. Once you comprimise that seal its never than same. The MLS gaskets are great in that they may only bypass on spray after they have been comprimised. They generally will get you home.
However youll have to change them and check the surface of the head and reinstall new gaskets.
You may want to check your tune. Either ruduce the shot size, increase AF ratio, reduce timing or add race gas. Youu have to do something...because if you put new gaskets on you will likley blow them again if you run the exact same setup. Your seal was likley good before...and its detonation that damaged it. If you dont change something....detoantion is likely again...and detanotion will damage ANYTHING!
Last edited by 383LQ4SS; Jun 23, 2007 at 02:53 PM.
Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
Defiantely OEM. They are basically the same but the OEM is much cheaper. The guys get Cometics generally have to because of non standard bore size.
IMO you probably had a little detonation on juice. Once you comprimise that seal its never than same. The MLS gaskets are great in that they may only bypass on spray after they have been comprimised. They generally will get you home.
However youll have to change them and check the surface of the head and reinstall new gaskets.
You may want to check your tune. Either ruduce the shot size, increase AF ratio, reduce timing or add race gas. Youu have to do something...because if you put new gaskets on you will likley blow them again if you run the exact same setup. Your seal was likley good before...and its detonation that damaged it. If you dont change something....detoantion is likely again...and detanotion will damage ANYTHING!
IMO you probably had a little detonation on juice. Once you comprimise that seal its never than same. The MLS gaskets are great in that they may only bypass on spray after they have been comprimised. They generally will get you home.
However youll have to change them and check the surface of the head and reinstall new gaskets.
You may want to check your tune. Either ruduce the shot size, increase AF ratio, reduce timing or add race gas. Youu have to do something...because if you put new gaskets on you will likley blow them again if you run the exact same setup. Your seal was likley good before...and its detonation that damaged it. If you dont change something....detoantion is likely again...and detanotion will damage ANYTHING!
Thanks for your reply..
Right now the A/F on the spray is 11.2 all the way to 6700rpms. I'm running 116 in a dedicated fuel cell that supplies the fuel noid. The car has 26* of timing on the spray. Is that too much for a 150 shot? The car has NO KR when it was on the dyno, so I don't think it lies in the tune, could be though.
I'm running a 4.030 bore, but like I said before, its a stock GM MLS gasket....
Last edited by BOTTLEFEDLS1Z; Jun 23, 2007 at 07:35 PM.
Originally Posted by BOTTLEFEDLS1Z
Thanks for your reply..
Right now the A/F on the spray is 11.2 all the way to 6700rpms. I'm running 116 in a dedicated fuel cell that supplies the fuel noid. The car has 26* of timing on the spray. Is that too much for a 150 shot? The car has NO KR when it was on the dyno, so I don't think it lies in the tune, could be though.
I'm running a 4.030 bore, but like I said before, its a stock GM MLS gasket....
Right now the A/F on the spray is 11.2 all the way to 6700rpms. I'm running 116 in a dedicated fuel cell that supplies the fuel noid. The car has 26* of timing on the spray. Is that too much for a 150 shot? The car has NO KR when it was on the dyno, so I don't think it lies in the tune, could be though.
I'm running a 4.030 bore, but like I said before, its a stock GM MLS gasket....
Robert
Originally Posted by Robert56
This was with no KR, race gas, 10.8:1 all the way and race gas, oh and 26* of timing, however a little bigger hit. Just shows that you can't allways see the issue on a log, plug reading would be better.
Robert
Robert
Would going to a TR7 help from detonating????
Originally Posted by BOTTLEFEDLS1Z
Thanks for your reply..
Right now the A/F on the spray is 11.2 all the way to 6700rpms. I'm running 116 in a dedicated fuel cell that supplies the fuel noid. The car has 26* of timing on the spray. Is that too much for a 150 shot? The car has NO KR when it was on the dyno, so I don't think it lies in the tune, could be though.
I'm running a 4.030 bore, but like I said before, its a stock GM MLS gasket....
Right now the A/F on the spray is 11.2 all the way to 6700rpms. I'm running 116 in a dedicated fuel cell that supplies the fuel noid. The car has 26* of timing on the spray. Is that too much for a 150 shot? The car has NO KR when it was on the dyno, so I don't think it lies in the tune, could be though.
I'm running a 4.030 bore, but like I said before, its a stock GM MLS gasket....
Is it an actual measured 150 shot? What is your total HP? It seems with the octane you are running and the timing you have you should be covered. However...that doesnt mean everything is ok. Obviously something happened because even though it appears you SHOULD have been ok with that setup...you werent. Well sealing stock GM MLS head gaskets also dont bypass with a 150 shot if all is working as it should.
You hear about people saying they are lifting heads....but lifting heads due to too much cylinder pressure during detonation and lifting heads due to too much cylinder pressure with everything perfect are way different. If you arent in the 800+ rwhp range and 800+ ft lbs tq there is no reason you should be comprimising head gaskets.
So it either has to be an issue with the head/deck surface when it went togehter...or a tune issue.
Let me ask...did you run the 150 shot a bunch of times without incedent and then all of a sudden start losing coolant?
What plugs? Have a dyno graph at all? Any unusual mishaps that you recall?? All it takes is one.
Last edited by 383LQ4SS; Jun 24, 2007 at 12:38 AM.
Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
Is it an actual measured 150 shot? What is your total HP? It seems with the octane you are running and the timing you have you should be covered. However...that doesnt mean everything is ok. Obviously something happened because even though it appears you SHOULD have been ok with that setup...you werent. Well sealing stock GM MLS head gaskets also dont bypass with a 150 shot if all is working as it should.
You hear about people saying they are lifting heads....but lifting heads due to too much cylinder pressure during detonation and lifting heads due to too much cylinder pressure with everything perfect are way different. If you arent in the 800+ rwhp range and 800+ ft lbs tq there is no reason you should be comprimising head gaskets.
So it either has to be an issue with the head/deck surface when it went togehter...or a tune issue.
Let me ask...did you run the 150 shot a bunch of times without incedent and then all of a sudden start losing coolant?
What plugs? Have a dyno graph at all? Any unusual mishaps that you recall?? All it takes is one.
You hear about people saying they are lifting heads....but lifting heads due to too much cylinder pressure during detonation and lifting heads due to too much cylinder pressure with everything perfect are way different. If you arent in the 800+ rwhp range and 800+ ft lbs tq there is no reason you should be comprimising head gaskets.
So it either has to be an issue with the head/deck surface when it went togehter...or a tune issue.
Let me ask...did you run the 150 shot a bunch of times without incedent and then all of a sudden start losing coolant?
What plugs? Have a dyno graph at all? Any unusual mishaps that you recall?? All it takes is one.
I have 7-9 dyno pulls and 3 passes on the street when I started noticing the coolant a day later after the dyno tune.
Plugs are TR6's right now gapped at .032
The only mishap is I kept blowing spark out on th dyno. Plugs were gapped at .035 before and I had the stock wires on them. Since then I closed the gap to .032 and put MSD wires on it and its fine now
I'm not gonna mention any names, but a well,well known person did my heads..
I do have a dyno graph but no scanner to post it
Window switch is set from 3000-6500 for the spray also...
Originally Posted by Robert56
Yes they could, and I also forgot I was running Tr6's and should have had a colder plug. They looked like this after the melt down.
Robert
Robert
I hope I never ever see that when pulling my plugs...lol
Wow...so your making some good power NA already and ontop of that spraying a solid 150 shot. Thats good power!
I think you should retard 3-4 more degrees and put your window switch at a 3200 rpm activation if thats possible for the way you launch. In other words if you dont need that nitrous at 3000 exactly to launch...bump up the spray point a few hundred rpm.
I would also go to heat range 7 plugs. I think you are probably just on the cusp and probably had a lean splike or high bottle pressure on one or two of your runs maybe that caused some detoantion and the initial bypassing of those gaskets. And like I said...once the seal is comprimised....its never the same and must be redone.
You may take the heads down to the machine shop just to recheck them.
Good luck...sounds like you have a stout combo. Your defiantely making some good power now...so you have to get that tune down to a science.
I think you should retard 3-4 more degrees and put your window switch at a 3200 rpm activation if thats possible for the way you launch. In other words if you dont need that nitrous at 3000 exactly to launch...bump up the spray point a few hundred rpm.
I would also go to heat range 7 plugs. I think you are probably just on the cusp and probably had a lean splike or high bottle pressure on one or two of your runs maybe that caused some detoantion and the initial bypassing of those gaskets. And like I said...once the seal is comprimised....its never the same and must be redone.
You may take the heads down to the machine shop just to recheck them.
Good luck...sounds like you have a stout combo. Your defiantely making some good power now...so you have to get that tune down to a science.
Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
Wow...so your making some good power NA already and ontop of that spraying a solid 150 shot. Thats good power!
I think you should retard 3-4 more degrees and put your window switch at a 3200 rpm activation if thats possible for the way you launch. In other words if you dont need that nitrous at 3000 exactly to launch...bump up the spray point a few hundred rpm.
I would also go to heat range 7 plugs. I think you are probably just on the cusp and probably had a lean splike or high bottle pressure on one or two of your runs maybe that caused some detoantion and the initial bypassing of those gaskets. And like I said...once the seal is comprimised....its never the same and must be redone.
You may take the heads down to the machine shop just to recheck them.
Good luck...sounds like you have a stout combo. Your defiantely making some good power now...so you have to get that tune down to a science.
I think you should retard 3-4 more degrees and put your window switch at a 3200 rpm activation if thats possible for the way you launch. In other words if you dont need that nitrous at 3000 exactly to launch...bump up the spray point a few hundred rpm.
I would also go to heat range 7 plugs. I think you are probably just on the cusp and probably had a lean splike or high bottle pressure on one or two of your runs maybe that caused some detoantion and the initial bypassing of those gaskets. And like I said...once the seal is comprimised....its never the same and must be redone.
You may take the heads down to the machine shop just to recheck them.
Good luck...sounds like you have a stout combo. Your defiantely making some good power now...so you have to get that tune down to a science.
I'm having the heads checked out before they go back on the car just to be safe.
Im assuming that by bumping the activation point up some from 3000rpms, thats going to help with cylinder pressure?
The guy who tuned my car is VERY good. He tuned Tosto's 421ci motor, so he knows his stuff.
Thanks to all who replied for the help!!!!
