100 shot....1 second slower???...WTF
first get the car tuned... and when you start with the nitrous tuning, put the smallest jets you have in the kit, and aim the nozzle away from the maf. this will give the nitrous a chance to mix in the lid and then enter the engine, I'm gonna guess you are freezing the maf by the sounds of it and that's killing the engine. Make usre all the plugs are good too before you start tuning too just to be safe, and once it's tuned, get a new set of plugs the first run, make a 1/8 mile pass and shut the car down and off as fast as possible and read the plug, make sure the tune is o.k. and then proceed.
also, have the timing and a/f set for the biggest shot you will ever run.. that way if you have the smaller jets in you are definately safe, and if you do go up on the shot, the tune will still be o.k. All too often I have seen people tune for a 100 shot, then want to up it to a 150 when they are at the track.... definate way to hurt something.
also, have the timing and a/f set for the biggest shot you will ever run.. that way if you have the smaller jets in you are definately safe, and if you do go up on the shot, the tune will still be o.k. All too often I have seen people tune for a 100 shot, then want to up it to a 150 when they are at the track.... definate way to hurt something.
Sounds to me like you're runnin WAY lean. If it's boggin, and you're on a dry shot, you can't be running THAT rich. Specially since you said a 75 worked better. That would be why.
How do I know... hehehe.. I went through this. Car "bogged down" after I had moved my dual dry nozzles.. I looked at the wideband.. 18
Where is your nozzle (pics?). What injectors? fuel pump?
How do I know... hehehe.. I went through this. Car "bogged down" after I had moved my dual dry nozzles.. I looked at the wideband.. 18
Where is your nozzle (pics?). What injectors? fuel pump?
ewww I just looked at your sig I see the problem...ported mass air...you are running lean as ****...I done that to my 98...It leaned it out terribly....I ended up buying a stock one to go back on the car....If the maf tables were re tuned it would be fine....
get a stock untouched maf I got mine off ebay for like 50 bucks that will fix it....ive been through the whole MAF deal....98s dont like it for some reason.....
and on a stock tuned car a 75 shot should be fine without a tune....
get a stock untouched maf I got mine off ebay for like 50 bucks that will fix it....ive been through the whole MAF deal....98s dont like it for some reason.....
and on a stock tuned car a 75 shot should be fine without a tune....
Here's my take, and this can be varified with a WB, often when locating nozzles from below, the air dynamics can cause the spray to miss the MAF wire all together, even when varified hitting wire static. Furthermore, the 75 may be working, at least in the beginning rpms cause it's being added to your n/a commanded a/f and lean, but not enough till ya get moving to cause a problem, then the 100 is way too lean from the get go. I have seen this numerous times when coming from below with nozzle(s). Standard known locations are better to start with. Don't listen to the spray away from the MAF, not what you want to start with until you have a WB and know it's too rich, otherwise you may make matters worse. Now with all that said, there's no gaurantee on getting the diagnosis correct on the web, just too many things known/unkown that can sway an opinion. Good luck and let us know what it was/is.
Robert
Robert
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I ran the HSW dry kit and put it on the dyno first. I am glad I did, the A/F ratio was 17/1. I took New Era Performances advice and went with a wet conversion kit from Dave's Outlet and have no regret's. (A/F 11.5) I would go that route. Helped me reach the 11's with 2.73 rear end!!! a trip to New Era Performances is also well worth it. They are located in Rochester NY and have saved me money and alot of hassle.
Originally Posted by bcbosley
Bottle is ON. No black smoke, and no pop or backfire. Wiring is fine, I can feel it spray when wide open swith triggers because car boggs and falls on its face, it just feels like it lost half its power, if I let the accelerator pedal up slightly to come off WOT switch, car runs fine. I have tested my nozzle spraying and it is spraying DIRECTLY dead smack at MAF wires, that why I'm thinking I'm running too rich, but my car does't smoke. I do have a ported and polished MAF could that be the problem. Car runs great not spraying though. Guess my car don't like the juice. 
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 179
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From: East Palestine, OH
Robert and others, why does a nozzle coming in from the bottom matter? Instead of being on the side of the lid neck, my nozzles just comes in from the bottom so it is hidden. I wanted everything hidden thats why I put it in the bottom. I had a 70 degree nozzle and it was spraying down missing the MAF wires completely. I bought a NOS 90 degree fan spray nozzle and it wasn't spraying right so I ground the end (modified) it a little and now it sprays directly at MAF wires. I do have a ported and polished MAF, but my car runs strong as hell when I'm not spraying. I'm going to get a stock MAF before I do anything. I will try and get pics of my setup posted ASAP. I no O2 sensors aren't for **** but would it help to watch my O2 sensor voltage. I have access to a scanner, so I can watch my o2's and injector duty cycle. I have a 98 with 28 lb injectors and my car has 50,xxx miles, so my fuel system should be okay right? What it comes down to is my nozzle placement?
strope's speed shop washington pa
Strope's Speed
Washington, PA
(724) 228-1166
some have had bad luck there, some good, I know erin, and he is a very good tuner, call and familarize your self with him, and make your own decision. other than that Rapid motorsports is around, but they sent a rough tune for a blower car we were working on, and it was no way decent, we were trying to get it there to dynotune but,the car was not driveable, so after a trailer trip to erin he made it run great, 579 hp on 8lbs of boost, so. Again they are not a sponcer, so I say this as a member here try to go to a sponcer first.
Strope's Speed
Washington, PA
(724) 228-1166
some have had bad luck there, some good, I know erin, and he is a very good tuner, call and familarize your self with him, and make your own decision. other than that Rapid motorsports is around, but they sent a rough tune for a blower car we were working on, and it was no way decent, we were trying to get it there to dynotune but,the car was not driveable, so after a trailer trip to erin he made it run great, 579 hp on 8lbs of boost, so. Again they are not a sponcer, so I say this as a member here try to go to a sponcer first.
Originally Posted by jp74
I ran the HSW dry kit and put it on the dyno first. I am glad I did, the A/F ratio was 17/1. I took New Era Performances advice and went with a wet conversion kit from Dave's Outlet and have no regret's. (A/F 11.5) I would go that route. Helped me reach the 11's with 2.73 rear end!!! a trip to New Era Performances is also well worth it. They are located in Rochester NY and have saved me money and alot of hassle.
Robert
Originally Posted by bcbosley
Robert and others, why does a nozzle coming in from the bottom matter? Instead of being on the side of the lid neck, my nozzles just comes in from the bottom so it is hidden. I wanted everything hidden thats why I put it in the bottom. I had a 70 degree nozzle and it was spraying down missing the MAF wires completely. I bought a NOS 90 degree fan spray nozzle and it wasn't spraying right so I ground the end (modified) it a little and now it sprays directly at MAF wires. I do have a ported and polished MAF, but my car runs strong as hell when I'm not spraying. I'm going to get a stock MAF before I do anything. I will try and get pics of my setup posted ASAP. I no O2 sensors aren't for **** but would it help to watch my O2 sensor voltage. I have access to a scanner, so I can watch my o2's and injector duty cycle. I have a 98 with 28 lb injectors and my car has 50,xxx miles, so my fuel system should be okay right? What it comes down to is my nozzle placement?
Robert
[QUOTE=bcbosley]I bought a NOS 90 degree fan spray nozzle and it wasn't spraying right so I ground the end (modified) it a little and now it sprays directly at MAF wires.QUOTE]
it's placement of the nozzle and how the nitrous actually sprays out of the nozzle. a straight nozzle will not spray nitrous out like a 90,70,ect. i do not recomend spraying a straight nozzle directly at the maf since the nitrous will have a very strong pressure and most possibly blow past the maf if 4" or less away from the maf.
with a 70,90,ect, i would suggest testing the spray pattern off of the car to get an idea of how it actually riches the maf destination. angled nozzles will fan out. you'll have to then try to place the nitrous fan out relative to the maf wires where the nitrous does not have too much pressure to blow past the maf and where the nitrous will not be too weak to not be read by the maf.
it's placement of the nozzle and how the nitrous actually sprays out of the nozzle. a straight nozzle will not spray nitrous out like a 90,70,ect. i do not recomend spraying a straight nozzle directly at the maf since the nitrous will have a very strong pressure and most possibly blow past the maf if 4" or less away from the maf.
with a 70,90,ect, i would suggest testing the spray pattern off of the car to get an idea of how it actually riches the maf destination. angled nozzles will fan out. you'll have to then try to place the nitrous fan out relative to the maf wires where the nitrous does not have too much pressure to blow past the maf and where the nitrous will not be too weak to not be read by the maf.