lt1 crank
Going to be using a nitrous outlet 58mm plate system and a FJO progressive.
I'm wondering if on a 200 shot, would I need to be worrying about the factory crank?? And if not, is there something else I should be sweating? This will be dyno tuned.
Just had racetronix/walbro 255lph pump put in last Friday. This will supply enough fuel? I am trying to get some independent fuel rails built out of a extra fuel rail I have laying around.
I'm told compression is 11:1.

How much base power are you making?
This motor isn't in the car yet, its sitting on a engine stand in my garage, and I'm in no hurry to get it in the car. Just thinking of things to worry about before its in the car......
Thanks for the reply. -Corey
When mine was at 600rwhp or so, I ran it for a while then noticed my oil pressure was getting lower. It was at the end of the race season here so I decided to try to run it out, and it ended up breaking 3 caps, smeared the main bearings, and threw chunks of metal all over including out the oil pan. It wiped outy the entire motor.
But if I had stopped when I noticed that the pressure was getting lower, I could have gone to billet caps, and better crank, then instead of needing a new motor.

How much base power are you making?
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What crank would be recommended for what I want then? Do the crank and the caps? What about bolts, ARP? Its getting more expensive all the time, but I guess I better do it right the first time.
SIR I-beam rods are forged from 5140 steel. Good for engines producing up to 500 horsepower. SB-Chevy features 2.100” crank pin. 8/pkg.
Can anyone confirm this? Is that number accurate, or does eagle print a number that is lower than what it can really hack??? Oh man.....
Would I be ok if I ran used H beam rods? I really want to get the motor in the car, but don't know about spending $430 for new rods....... If anyone has a good used forged crank and h beam rods let me know. -Corey
I say if you want to keep the stock crank, keep the rpm's down on the spray!




