Motor has 4 bolt mains(stock vette block), forged rods/pistons. Rods are from Eagle, not sure on manufacturer of pistons.

Going to be using a nitrous outlet 58mm plate system and a FJO progressive.

I'm wondering if on a 200 shot, would I need to be worrying about the factory crank?? And if not, is there something else I should be sweating? This will be dyno tuned.

Just had racetronix/walbro 255lph pump put in last Friday. This will supply enough fuel? I am trying to get some independent fuel rails built out of a extra fuel rail I have laying around.

I'm told compression is 11:1.

 

Your probably ok with the stock crank, but close for sure. The biggest problem with the stockers is they will wobble under high load and cause premature main bearing wear. It will also fatigue your main caps. Eventually stock caps let-go, and crank ends up somewhere below where it is supposed to be. Ask me how I know.

How much base power are you making?

 

I'm shooting for 375 rwhp N/A. So would it be wise to upgrade the main caps then? Does this solve some of the wobble and bearing issues? I was hoping with the progressive that it wouldn't pound on it so bad, but it sounds like your telling me it will have the issue in the higher rpms then?

This motor isn't in the car yet, its sitting on a engine stand in my garage, and I'm in no hurry to get it in the car. Just thinking of things to worry about before its in the car......

Thanks for the reply. -Corey

 

I need more opinions on this....... Could I run the stock crank if I upgraded the caps and studded them? I'm really curious, cause I know what I want to do, need to know what to worry about.

 

If your feeling lucky, then just put it together and try it. It dosen't happen right away, and your oil pressure is your tell-tale sign that things are going away.
When mine was at 600rwhp or so, I ran it for a while then noticed my oil pressure was getting lower. It was at the end of the race season here so I decided to try to run it out, and it ended up breaking 3 caps, smeared the main bearings, and threw chunks of metal all over including out the oil pan. It wiped outy the entire motor.
But if I had stopped when I noticed that the pressure was getting lower, I could have gone to billet caps, and better crank, then instead of needing a new motor.

 

Thanks. So I guess my question is then, with billet caps will it be enough to support the stock crank then? Ahhhhh I didn't really want to put a crank in it, what will one cost that will support 600rwhp? Its just a 350, it hasn't been bored or stroked.

 

I've seen this exact problem on a forced induction LS1 with a stock crank. It wobbled enough to cause bearing wear. Not fun. Buy the 4340

 

I think you'll be happy with a 150 shot wet kit with your mods I am happy with my built LT4 on it. Plus it will be a lil safer on your motor.

 

I probably could be happy on a 150 shot. Just knowing that there is a jet higher sitting around though....... I think I really do want the 200 shot. It honestly wouldn't be on the bottle too often, I don't have to be at the track every other week or anything, and there sure as hell isn't anything really exciting to run against around town.
What crank would be recommended for what I want then? Do the crank and the caps? What about bolts, ARP? Its getting more expensive all the time, but I guess I better do it right the first time.

 

I've heard recommendations for scat and eagle, any lt1s running these on their nitrous motors? What are people using? I don't need some $1200+ crank, I know that.

 

Now I'm a little worried about the eagle rods that are in this motor:
SIR I-beam rods are forged from 5140 steel. Good for engines producing up to 500 horsepower. SB-Chevy features 2.100” crank pin. 8/pkg.

Can anyone confirm this? Is that number accurate, or does eagle print a number that is lower than what it can really hack??? Oh man.....

 

Anybody? I beam rods probably a bad idea for the power I want to make?

Would I be ok if I ran used H beam rods? I really want to get the motor in the car, but don't know about spending $430 for new rods....... If anyone has a good used forged crank and h beam rods let me know. -Corey

 

stock crank here with splayed mains and upgraded caps with eagle h beam rods and wiseco pistons. I did 520rwhp on the 150 shot with an opti issue, now I'm about 30rwhp more on motor so should be around 550rwhp on the 150 shot. 200 jets go in soon with a dedicated fuel system.

I say if you want to keep the stock crank, keep the rpm's down on the spray!