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H/C Vette N20 Question...

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Old 07-25-2007 | 05:29 PM
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Question H/C Vette N20 Question...

Alright everyone...my Dad has a 2002 C5...and it's a H/C car, full bolt ons tuned by ECS....now, I was talking to him today and after seeing an NX MAF kit on a 05 GTO he was thinking about spraying his vette....I'll be posting all the specs on his motor soon....but my question now...is how much spray can we run through a H/C car with stock bottom end? I really wanna know, cause the way the car sits, it put down 447 rhwp, and not positive about tq....but I just wanna know how fast can we make this car on spray and how much can we run through it?


BTW...it's auto with a Yank 3200 Stall with a stock 4L60E...
Old 07-25-2007 | 08:52 PM
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550rwhp total for longjevity, and torque no more than low 600's. Now if ya want to push it, and many do, you could go as high as 600/650, but you'll really need to spread the torque out through multi staging and/or progressive.
Robert
Old 07-25-2007 | 10:15 PM
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I agree. 600/650 is about the max the rods will take. It will do this with probably 250 or less shot. I would watch the a/f ratio strongly and make sure there isnt any kr. Just my 2 cents.
Old 07-25-2007 | 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Cam72aro
I agree. 600/650 is about the max the rods will take. It will do this with probably 250 or less shot. I would watch the a/f ratio strongly and make sure there isnt any kr. Just my 2 cents.
I find it interesting that you mentioned the rods as a weak link rather than the pistons. Every meltdown from nitrous I have seen the pistons let go. Are there any reports of rods breaking before the pistons do? I am interested because I am running forged pistons on stock rods (stupid i know but its a tight budget). I also have arp rod bolts.
Old 07-26-2007 | 12:42 AM
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Thanks...so what kind of kit should I tell him to look for? I mean like what do I need to make this work, controllers, A/F gauge? BTW...I know nothing about multiple stages....
Old 07-26-2007 | 01:36 AM
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There are alot of good kits out. I have had great results from the TNT kits. I now have a TNT & a ZEX direct port. The direct port is your better bet more even distribution & a lil bit more tunability also a lil more pricey. In my case we picked up a ton. The Direct port (DP) has a real smooth hit and they look really cool if your into the flashy crap. ZEX, NX, TNT all reputable companies and there are several more out there. You would be surprised what a 100 shot feels like if you don't have much experience with spray. The #'s stated above I agree with 100% I wouldnt push the 600/650 too much but, you never know. My old setup was a 612/62xish H/C stock bottom and it was great. 2 passes on spray went 10.60's 133 then had driveline problems from the hard launches off bottle. Car was doin 1.4 - 1.5 60fts. so stuff was bound to break. thats racing. Good luck pickin out your setup. lotsa good info from SOME of the guys on here.
Old 07-26-2007 | 01:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Zero4488
Thanks...so what kind of kit should I tell him to look for? I mean like what do I need to make this work, controllers, A/F gauge? BTW...I know nothing about multiple stages....
nitro dave window switch, (the zex DP comes with basically the same switch) a good tune, if your sprayin moderate to heavy, a mix of 109 octane fuel and your 93 pump should keep you safe. That should be all you need to go with a good kit. Some people will say more or less i am sure. I prefer to keep it simple.
Old 07-26-2007 | 04:48 AM
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Thanks alot...now time to start shoppin...
Old 07-26-2007 | 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by pist0lpete
I find it interesting that you mentioned the rods as a weak link rather than the pistons. Every meltdown from nitrous I have seen the pistons let go. Are there any reports of rods breaking before the pistons do? I am interested because I am running forged pistons on stock rods (stupid i know but its a tight budget). I also have arp rod bolts.
When cylinder pressures get real high rods tend to bend. The more nitrous, the more cylinder pressure.
Old 07-26-2007 | 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Cam72aro
When cylinder pressures get real high rods tend to bend. The more nitrous, the more cylinder pressure.
True but usually in ls engines the stock pistons go first, usually the rignlands or some get holes in the piston tops.
Old 07-26-2007 | 08:13 AM
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On that car i would hit it with like a 125 shot, no need to overdo it and risk popping the stock internals. Depends on how crazy you want to get with it. You could probably do a dual stage 100/100 shot on it without problems if you have an upgraded fuel pump.

A lot of the problems come from the massive TQ spike when you first hit the spray, now if you reduce that initial spike by progressive controller or dual stage then you reduce you risk greatly.

Where in South jerzey you from?
Old 07-26-2007 | 10:19 AM
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I would be more worried about your stock tranny
Old 07-26-2007 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Cam72aro
I agree. 600/650 is about the max the rods will take. It will do this with probably 250 or less shot. I would watch the a/f ratio strongly and make sure there isnt any kr. Just my 2 cents.
what you talkin about willis?? the stock rods are good to well over 600 RWHP. the stock pistons will come apart on the ring lands in the high 500's and anything over that.


rods/crank are fine. might wanna invest in rod bolts to avoid nitrous hits abusing the weak stock bolts.
Old 07-26-2007 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by LostCauseZ06
what you talkin about willis?? the stock rods are good to well over 600 RWHP. the stock pistons will come apart on the ring lands in the high 500's and anything over that.


rods/crank are fine. might wanna invest in rod bolts to avoid nitrous hits abusing the weak stock bolts.
Well over 600? On a powered metal rod? Crazy. I would invest in pistons and rods. I thought that the pistons were a given.
Old 07-26-2007 | 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Cam72aro
Well over 600? On a powered metal rod? Crazy. I would invest in pistons and rods. I thought that the pistons were a given.

obviously you havent read this board much or had much experience in the LSx world....

ever heard of a supra and a 2jz? 1000 RWHp on stock engine components.... yeah.. its like that...




check out the turbo guys running stock cranks and polished rods pushin 1000 RWHP easily. the stock LSX rods are proven to hold good power.




EDIT.. btw im not tryin to be a jerk or make ya feel dumb..... just lettin ya know what ive seen in my experience. LSx rods and crank from what ive seen havent ever been broken but most people get a little leary around the mid/high 600 mark.


pistons are garbage though

Last edited by LostCauseZ06; 07-26-2007 at 01:48 PM.
Old 07-26-2007 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Cam72aro
Well over 600? On a powered metal rod? Crazy. I would invest in pistons and rods. I thought that the pistons were a given.
Here's my buddy's bonestock longblock (Chris Stewart). Check the torque out, and it's curve, this is why it can live at this level 665rwhp/564rwtq. (it's on the dyno overlays below also)

Now check out the overlay(s) below (Thanks Chris S.), see the big nitrous hit, it's only 550rwhp, but look at how much (636rwtq) and how quick the torque comes on. This motor didn't last much longer, when the shot was upped (210 to 285) the 665rwtq killed it.




Stock longblock LS6's, TORQUE

Stock LS6's, HP

Robert

Last edited by Robert56; 07-26-2007 at 06:49 PM.
Old 07-26-2007 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by LostCauseZ06
obviously you havent read this board much or had much experience in the LSx world....
ever heard of a supra and a 2jz? 1000 RWHp on stock engine components.... yeah.. its like that...
check out the turbo guys running stock cranks and polished rods pushin 1000 RWHP easily. the stock LSX rods are proven to hold good power.
EDIT.. btw im not tryin to be a jerk or make ya feel dumb..... just lettin ya know what ive seen in my experience. LSx rods and crank from what ive seen havent ever been broken but most people get a little leary around the mid/high 600 mark.


pistons are garbage though
I have read this board quite a bit. I am not new to the lsx world. I belive that you can go big horsepower on stock rods, but for how long?????? Not very, they will give out before long. I never said the cranks couldnt handle it. There are only a couple of 100hp turbo guys, and there motors didnt last long. If you are trying to make that kind of power, then rods and pistons would be cheap insurance. I understand that you arent being a jerk, but I know a little more than you think I do. I am not a newbie to nitrous. I know what a motor can handle. Thanks, Josh
Old 07-26-2007 | 07:31 PM
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It has been proven over and over with a good tune you can do a very aggresive shot on the stock shortblock.....

Might want to read this whole thread and pick up some very good info....

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...=551332&page=1
Old 07-26-2007 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by stainless40cal
It has been proven over and over with a good tune you can do a very aggresive shot on the stock shortblock.....

Might want to read this whole thread and pick up some very good info....

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...=551332&page=1
I have read that thread and it has some very good info. I think the 600hp range is safe for a while.
Old 07-26-2007 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Cam72aro
I have read this board quite a bit. I am not new to the lsx world. I belive that you can go big horsepower on stock rods, but for how long?????? Not very, they will give out before long. I never said the cranks couldnt handle it. There are only a couple of 100hp turbo guys, and there motors didnt last long. If you are trying to make that kind of power, then rods and pistons would be cheap insurance. I understand that you arent being a jerk, but I know a little more than you think I do. I am not a newbie to nitrous. I know what a motor can handle. Thanks, Josh

can you point me in the general direction to ANY thread where a rod has actually broken??? ive never seen one... always been pistons or a bad tune or something stupid... ive never seen a rod failure due to HP.



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