The K came in BTW.

Matt

 

It didnt hurt my intake just blew the gasket out from between the top and bottom.
Killed the MAF and the lid though.


Dynoed it last night the motor is fine and the speed density tune went smooth BUT ...

I borrowed a 275amp alternator from someone and from what I hear now they dont like high RPM's well I'm shifting at 7400 rpms so needless to say it killed it.

We tried my old alternator with the main power feed to the Direct port wired right to the battery. Well it didnt work turned on the DP only and the voltage dropped to 8-9 right away.
This is REALLY starting to **** me off!
Its going to roll out once we get this gremlin figured out

Anyone know of a high output alternator that can take some RPM.


.

 

I have a 145 amp alternator someone did local thats fine to 7300rpm.

If you are having voltage issues stick a voltblaster on there, at WOT it ups the voltage to 15-16 volts. Helps keep the ignition and fuel pumps going. Been running the 145 amp plus the voltblaster for a year with no problems. My car had a crapload of voltage drop when everything is running and after two or three passes with the stock alternator the car was at 10 volts WOT, sucks when the car is drawing more then the stock alternator puts out.

 

Thanks a bunch KP!

What voltblaster are you using?

 

Robert,

Told you back fires happen with dry nitrous systems as well. Its just that wet systems are usualy for violant do to the added fuel vapors in the intake.

However wet or dry if the system or tune up is not right backfires can happen.

Glad everything checked out ok.
Dave

 

So what can ultimately prevent nitrous backfires? Regularly checking the plugs (after how many bottles)? Not hitting the rev limiter or spraying off the line?

This has got me a little jumpy.

 

Correct tune up, Window switch and the car being machanicaly correct will normaly prevent nitrous back fires.
Dave

 

The one from casper electronics, speed inc sells them too. Costs 80.00 and takes 5 minutes to install, helped me out a bunch especially since the BS3 does not like low voltage at high rpm.

 

I see it.

Thanks again

 

Yea, I allways agreed, except to say very rare, and yea I am sure glad I didn't have the fuel vapors in the intake or it may have been like TnT's. the problem I have been having is surging rpms, and this time it went to the moon. Backfired and kept on running. Man it was so lowd my buddies in the pits heard it and said ****. I haven't even looked at the logs yet, not totally sure what's up. But I am going to have Ellis help out I think. We had some surging the other day and found some issues, we thought, but something is still up. I guess if it was easy pushing the envelope everyone would be doing it. This was a 260rwhp shot.
Robert

 

One of my WS may have went on the blink and let it spray past cut off rpm. I speculate this cause I have been having problems shifting cause of what appears to be tach lag, currently shifting at 6000rpm and it still hits the limiter at 7000rpm. So if WS is acting up, and the combo of hitting the limiter, and then the pcm killing the fuel, and still spraying the big half, well a recipe for a high rpm lean backfire. Damn this gets expensive, hehehe.
Robert

 

thats why Im going with a dry kit, becasue If I get a backfire chances are that it wont be that bad.

 

**** this car !!!

Tried the voltage booster and Shiz's 160amp truck alternator and it helped but not enough.

I guess we are going to try switching from a 4 noid set up to a 2 noid.
Or I'm going to put a motor converter in it, take the DP off and drive it around.

Talk about frustrating! I may not be bringing the car to Memphis.

 

are you sure its not a bad noid...have you tried putting two batteries in parallel (to keep them at 12 volts) to see if the extra capacity prevents the drop? maybe up to a larger gauge wire to prevent voltage drop?

 

you sound like me.

 

I'm not sure but they are brand new.

When we tested the kit (off the car to check the spray pattern) they worked fine and that was off a 1/2 dead jump box.

**** doesnt make sense Steve is firing 4 noids with no problems and everything I have is an upgrade from what he is running (alternator, battery, feed wire)

 

I'm ready to go back to racing 4wheelers! whats a few broken bones

 

I had just installed a zex kit in my 98A4 jetted for a 75 shot. Now, at this time I had never used nitrous before so I was very nervous. To make a long story short, I did my burnout in first, activated the arming switch, staged and took off. I all ways race in 3rd NEVER manually and I was so nervous that I left the bitch in first after my burnout and never put it in 3rd. The car hit the rev limiter hard, backfired and turned off. Nothing blew up but my lid broke.

 

good thing nothing broke but the lid, is it dry or wet?

 

Check all your grounds and/or make jumpers directly to batt for testing. Sounds like maybe a bad connection which is acting like a resistor. I know grounds on our cars can cause all sorts of issues. I see ya stated you have a new batt? That was the reason mine was dropping voltage (bad cell), and mine works fine with stock alt with dual heaters running, both fans, lights and dual to quad noids? Hope ya get it sorted soon.
Robert