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Who else has had a nitrous backfire?

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Old Aug 31, 2007 | 08:24 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Empatho
good thing nothing broke but the lid, is it dry or wet?
It was a wet kit. And my first nitrous run ever. When my car backfired I thought all of my nitrous fears came true.
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Old Sep 1, 2007 | 03:10 PM
  #42  
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Well I figured out what was the problem. It was self induced and not a problem with the dry hit/kit or set-up.

Here goes, a copy from the NW section, I hope it makes sense (it does to me lol)?

I now know exactly what happened, damn. Well on my 2nd stage, I was using a rpm activation switch, not a full WS, and was fine for my smaller hits normally run in 2nd gear and on and 2nd stage (other full WS was on the blink). So a couple weeks ago at the track I was getting some surging. With Ellis's help we decided it was a MAF reading problem (later found the 1st stage 90* nozzle was knocked out of wack). So I switched jets from the 1st stage to 2nd stage after trying 2nd stage by itself (worked fine). So, to make a even longer staory shorter, I had a single jet (80/90 hp shot) in one nozzle for the 1st stage, with a full WS. Then the 2nd stage had my bigger hit in it, which was somewhere in the range of 175/190rwhp, and only the rpm activation sw, no way to limit spray at high rpm. So now when hitting the limiter, which I did, the fuel was cut in the PCM, now we have a 190rwhp shot still spraying with NO FUEL, and thus the lean high rpm back fire. We'll be back (Arnold's voice).
Robert
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Old Sep 2, 2007 | 02:42 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Empatho
those 6 can take a beating, should of done a 300+ shot that would take care of it
it took 10lbs of open long line into the intake and still ran. I posted a thread about the abuse they can take and still run. a new maf, cat and muffler and it would have been perfect.
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Old Sep 3, 2007 | 06:24 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Matt@HSW
They usually don't react fast enough for a true back fire, there have been a few guys running them that still poped the intake.

Matt
what about one or two of these

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Old Sep 3, 2007 | 09:52 PM
  #45  
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Those might be better than the FAST ones. The key is additional surface area...along with a quick release due to low "activation pressure". A burst disc is kind of...not the best way. I like the idea of spring pressure...progressive spring pressure. Use just enough spring pressure to make the car run without a vacum leak NA.

Shiz???what the hell is going on with your voltage? I used a stock vette alternator and reved it to 7800 many times and used anywhere from 5-7 noids.

Are you getting alternator belt slip? Do you have a Katech tensioner? Any black belt dust around your alternator pulley. I have seen several cars have major issues when the alternator slips. Massive surging on juice.
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Old Sep 3, 2007 | 10:16 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
Those might be better than the FAST ones. The key is additional surface area...along with a quick release due to low "activation pressure". A burst disc is kind of...not the best way. I like the idea of spring pressure...progressive spring pressure. Use just enough spring pressure to make the car run without a vacum leak NA.

Shiz???what the hell is going on with your voltage? I used a stock vette alternator and reved it to 7800 many times and used anywhere from 5-7 noids.

Are you getting alternator belt slip? Do you have a Katech tensioner? Any black belt dust around your alternator pulley. I have seen several cars have major issues when the alternator slips. Massive surging on juice.

Its not Shiz's car its my junker.

Thats another thing for us to try I guess. I'll have the car on the dyno again this week to see if the stuff we changed this weekend worked.
Keeping my fingers crossed because there isnt much we have'nt tried.
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Old Sep 3, 2007 | 10:28 PM
  #47  
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Man, I hope i dont have a backfire. I finally got my kit working but i havent sprayed it yet. I just tested it with the lines off of the plate. Now i just need to change the plugs and setup a tune so i can spray it. This thread makes me kind of nervous but i've known about the backfire since day one. BTW...i have a wet kit.
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 01:20 AM
  #48  
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you should jump the noids and find a amp meter to test what they are drawling...along with other large electrical thing and see what it all sums up to...then you can see how much battery/alternator power you really need and if anything is drawling too much
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 01:47 AM
  #49  
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damn, had a backfire lastnightat the track, it was not pretty, lol! dont know what is up with the car but i know i broke the ls6 intake, lid, maf and the radiator support where the filter goes! hit it with a 100 shot, and turned it on in second, as soon as i flipped the switch it went boom! i got scared and turned off the car and went coasting i pulled the car home and pulled the plugs and they look good, i turn on the car and it turn off after like 30 seconds, what do u think it is? sorry for the long story and thanks in advance!

p.s. i dont have a window switch if that helps!
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 07:17 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by 4yall2nv
damn, had a backfire lastnightat the track, it was not pretty, lol! dont know what is up with the car but i know i broke the ls6 intake, lid, maf and the radiator support where the filter goes! hit it with a 100 shot, and turned it on in second, as soon as i flipped the switch it went boom! i got scared and turned off the car and went coasting i pulled the car home and pulled the plugs and they look good, i turn on the car and it turn off after like 30 seconds, what do u think it is? sorry for the long story and thanks in advance!

p.s. i dont have a window switch if that helps!
You likely through a bunch of codes. Prob went past limp mod and shuts down to save the engine. Time for some new parts and clear all your codes.
Robert
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 12:35 AM
  #51  
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yea man. i will put the computer tommorow and check it out, cause whn i turn on the car it like stays on for seconds and then turn off instantly, what do u think is causing this, sorry for the newb questions!
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 10:46 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by 4yall2nv
yea man. i will put the computer tommorow and check it out, cause whn i turn on the car it like stays on for seconds and then turn off instantly, what do u think is causing this, sorry for the newb questions!
Yep that's what mine was doing at first. then when it decided to run it would go full throttle. The backfire toasted the TB, meaning pushed the blades past where they were supposed to be, and now doesn't read the throttle positon correctly. Just check your codes, it'll tell ya more than us second guessing, but I had a couple diff TB codes and MAF codes amongest others.
Robert
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Old Sep 15, 2007 | 10:45 AM
  #53  
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A very PAINFUL mishap . And costly.
Attached Thumbnails Who else has had a nitrous backfire?-fuel-rails.jpg   Who else has had a nitrous backfire?-picture4.jpg   Who else has had a nitrous backfire?-picture5.jpg   Who else has had a nitrous backfire?-picture9.jpg   Who else has had a nitrous backfire?-picture3.jpg  

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Old Sep 15, 2007 | 01:20 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by crb99ws6
A very PAINFUL mishap . And costly.
OUCH!
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Old Sep 15, 2007 | 01:55 PM
  #55  
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Crb, that's freaking crazy, sorry to see this happen.
Robert
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Old Sep 15, 2007 | 02:31 PM
  #56  
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damn man, thats sucks! sorry for ur loss!!
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Old Sep 15, 2007 | 03:21 PM
  #57  
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Holy Crap!! That makes my LT1 fire look like a match. What the hell happened?
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Old Sep 15, 2007 | 03:41 PM
  #58  
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best backfire pic i ever saw was this one
Attached Thumbnails Who else has had a nitrous backfire?-big-mike001.jpg  
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Old Sep 16, 2007 | 12:46 AM
  #59  
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Brand new 2 stage (150\150) plate kit never used. First time to the track it was closed. Bottle was open and on the drive home im assuming a solenoid leaked somehow the backfire split the intake in half and knocked the stand alone fuel line off full of c16 and no fire extiguisher (doh!!!) and the rest is history. Really have no other explanation, other than just my shitty luck.
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