tonight at the track my car started to sputter bad on the bottle. It felt like the the bottle had air pockets in the line? its hard to explain. Even when i purge, the nitrous will come out in spurts of nitrous then air and vise versa. it feels like i have the traction control on while trying to race. My car is a 99SS with patriot heads and F13 cam with a 2 stage dry hit from harris speedworks. Any ideas.

 

Check connections, was your bottle straight up and down or was it angled correctly? the pickup tube inside the bottle needs to actually be sucking up the liquid nitrous for the spray to actually work, lol.

Also- if you checked all of this and its fine, go to autozone and have your alternator checked out. Could be dropping voltage. If so- take it off the car and have it checked one more time (on the bench they have inside and make sure you have a competent individual doing it). If all else fails- look for a new alternator. It is important to also check battery, grounds, etc if the alternator tests good.

 

the battery is a month old , bottle was freshly filled today and voltage seems ok on the efilve logs. A/F was good but it did feel like the ignition is cutting out or the noid is pulsing. it happens on the launch at the track of in the upper rpms on the freeway runs

 

You need to know the voltage drop. Check before you hit and after you hit/while you hit.

 

i think it might be a bad ground becaues i had to find a new ground for my wideband that was on the same place as the noids

 

Both noids should be grounded to different locations on the chassis. Check those and then report back. Grounds /ground differently when the car is running because more current is actually flowing.

 

EDIT: Just noticed car was dry

 

Yep, i finally figured out what the surging issue is on the dry hits, or at least the most likely cause if everything seems to check out.

Need info on your set-up, what nozzles 90*'s? how many? how far away? what size hit for each stage.

Get this info and I have ya covered I believe. Just fixed this exact issue, and most have been chasing there tails when it comes to surging and the dry hit. Really simple and nozzle/MAF related, if I am correct.

Robert

 

hey there robert i was hoping you would pop in and help out. Its a two stage dry with 70 degree stainless nozzels from harris speed. each nozzel has it own noid (big ones with bottom exit) The kit seems to work fine at times but it seems to be getting worse. Its a two stage with each stage being a 75 rwhp totaling a 150 shot. both nozzels are located in the neck of the lid just after the iat sensor facing directly at the maf wires.(descreened) It has maxed out the maf frequency 12000hz a couple of times at the track. even on the logs when the car sputtered the arf was 11.2-11.7.

 

Try rotating one nozzle back into the air stream, rather than directly at the MAF wires.

If this doesn't do it, for testing purposes, turn both nozzles back into the air stream. You may get a lean spike doing this, but nothing to worry about cause we won't be leaving it this way.

Can you give the distance in inches nozzles are from the MAF wires?

It's just an adjustment issue i am sure. You won't hurt anything when it's sputtering.

Robert

 

if it is indeed an adjustment issue why does it happen intermittenly. I think my power and ground leads are to long creating a voltage drop.
i will check the distance in a bit. i did turn the nozzels and it ran good
but it was lean the entire run. from 13.5-16.0

 

You turned your nozzles and it ran ok? If so, then your on the right track. Then your leads have nothing to do with it. Air Dynamics is the answer in short. now you must tell me exactly what you did, turn both nozzles, single nozzle, all the way back into stream, just a tad and so on. Also, i need the distance from nozzle to MAF wire. All the info you can give is needed if I am going to be able to do diagnostics over the web. A picture can be worth a 1000 words.
Robert

 

i will try to post pics tommorrow and thanks for your help

 

sorry i took so long to get the pics up but i couldnt find my camera. Here are the pics and let me know what you think. The weird thing is thart when i use the purge noid the stream of nitrous has air pockets in it, what i mean is its not constant nitrous. http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...ter/car011.jpg http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...ter/car010.jpg http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...r/car009-1.jpg
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...r/car008-1.jpg

 

WAYYYYYYYYY too close to your maf.


Move them out about 2.5-3.5" and I guarantee you will see mucho better results!

 

You still need to answer the 1uestions I have asked a couple times, what style nozzles ie: 90*, straights or ? also what id the measurement from maf wire to nozzle, looks pretty close ot me.
However, you may have just answered your own question, your bottle, either you have a bad fill, and/or it/s about empty, or the bottle is postioned so the pick up tube is not submereged. All signs of surging. Fix that first, and you'll know wheb it's good, you'll have a steady stream when purging.
Robert

 

well the bottle was filled the day i went racing. Buy there all the time. I thought i had already said dual 70* stainless nozzels from HSW,sorry. the bottle position hasnt changed since i installed it and it worked fine at first but then sputtered a few times on the street and also had some trouble with the first stage activating. Thought if was a low bottle so i refilled and went to the track. 1st run was fine but went lean cause i had move them cause i had caused a maf code a few weeks back at the track. 2nd run i pointed them at the maf wires , the car bogged once then left fine and the AFR was 11.2-11.6. 3rd run car bogged, then began to sputter hard like if the traction control was on (lol) so i turned off the nitrous and got back in it and it ran fine. The AFR was fine on the log even during the sputter. sorry if this got a little long but the car ran fine for a year on the old n.o.s kit then i bought a whole kit ,two stage fron HSW and it worked good for a month and know this so i really wanna fix to get back to the races

 

ooops i forgot to measure the distance. i think 2-2.5 inches but i will measure in a bit,need a flash light.ha.ha

 

ok guys sorry it took so long to get back to you but works been crazy. I checked the measurement and its 2 3/4 on the driverside(1st stage) and 2 7/8 ont the passenger side(2nd stage). i checked today and i do get a constant stream on n20 on both stages with the car running(car was idleing with ac and lights on to create voltage load) i unhooked the lines from the nossels and when they activated nothing but n20 came out, no burst of air or anything. So any thing else i can do to help you help me?

 

the mesurements are from the nozzel to the actual maf wires.