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Why are Nitrous Stalls different?

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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 02:58 PM
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Default Why are Nitrous Stalls different?

In my research, I've noticed that stalls are specific to nitrous. Why is this? Additionally, they are stalled lower than a N/A specific stall is. Why?
I ask because I will be restalling my car soon and might be spraying my car at some point.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 03:16 PM
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they chose a lower stall because nitrous pushes the stall's flash higher due to the increased torque
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 05:26 PM
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So even if one isn't spraying off the line, they should still get nitrous stall?
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 11:43 PM
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Yes. Nitrous makes gobs of torque, therefor it would be safer to run a lower stall, unless you want to balloon and cook the convertor. Seen it happen a few times, it sucks.
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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 01:30 AM
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so tech would a 3000 pro torque stall be good for spray (125 wet)
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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 02:04 AM
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protorque were known for not being very efficient on cz28.com with the lt1 guys...id HIGHLY reccomend spending the money on a yank...
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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 03:51 AM
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Originally Posted by daniel6718
protorque were known for not being very efficient on cz28.com with the lt1 guys...id HIGHLY reccomend spending the money on a yank...
car came with a protorque so thats whats in it for now. Car makes decent power and runs some good times for no mods in high da's (12.8 in da's between 3500-3600)
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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 04:53 AM
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Not only do you risk ruining your converter on juice if it's not set up to take it, but you also lose potential power and torque if the converter is too loose. Mine is an ATI 8" 4k stall, and it's too loose. However, the converter can take the nitrous without any problems, but I'm missing out on power. On motor, my dyno sheet has the initial spike from the stall, then a gradual increase in hp (the way it's supposed to be). On nitrous, it has the initial spike, then a gradual decrease in hp. This tells you it's too loose for the juice.
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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 02SS:ZEUS
Not only do you risk ruining your converter on juice if it's not set up to take it, but you also lose potential power and torque if the converter is too loose. Mine is an ATI 8" 4k stall, and it's too loose. However, the converter can take the nitrous without any problems, but I'm missing out on power. On motor, my dyno sheet has the initial spike from the stall, then a gradual increase in hp (the way it's supposed to be). On nitrous, it has the initial spike, then a gradual decrease in hp. This tells you it's too loose for the juice.
Perfect evidence right there.
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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by INDIGO 5.3
Yes. Nitrous makes gobs of torque, therefor it would be safer to run a lower stall, unless you want to balloon and cook the convertor. Seen it happen a few times, it sucks.
The N20 verters come/made with ballooning plates so this does not happen.. Correct?

On my 4K stall, 2.4str verter, it hits like a **** out of the hole at the track.. but, on the street from a 50 mph roll, I can tell it blows thrue the verter with the N20 on though.
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 07:03 PM
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kEEP IT TIGHT!
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 09:28 PM
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Talking with John at Fuddle, he is recommending a 3200 stall for me, so i think that might be the direction i head. He assures me it will handle all the power i can throw at it.
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by MOSTDELUXE
kEEP IT TIGHT!
As in a higher STR or a lower stall?
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 11:51 PM
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To give you an Idea I am running a custom built 3,800 Yank Pro Thruster. She has a 3,800 flash N/A.

On Juice she flashes to to 5,600 and gains a 2-3% lose in efficentcy
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Ruckus46Gt
car came with a protorque so thats whats in it for now. Car makes decent power and runs some good times for no mods in high da's (12.8 in da's between 3500-3600)


I run the same but custom built for my set-up. Mine is a 3200. they are right about flashing. I had a Vig 3600 and it would flash really high. Sucked!!
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