yea, that's what I am doing, a DP Dry, though mine will be on display. Already have some ideas and plans for a dual stage DP Dry, hehe.
Robert

 

im still trying to decide what i want to do. as in what kit. single nozzle w/o interface or with. or the dry plate with interface.

100-150 shot for the track (once a month) or a race that was set up in advance.

i would like to spend as little as possible but i dont want to srat off wrong from the get go

 

I Thnk Efi Live Cos 5 Is The Best Solution..

I May Go With The Interface Since Im Already Comfortable With Hp Tuners But Boy Do I Wish They Would Follow Suit With A Cos 5 Of Their Own

 

Yes, COS 5 is pretty trick, though many will not be looking to put out that kind of $$ for a tuner program. Also, like you, I run HP Tuner and love it. For most of the street/strip guys on this site, the Interface is all that's needed for setting up your nitrous kit. Remember though, which ever route we take, Interface by itself or with a tuner program, we need to log parameters and dial in the tune; meaning, nothing better than seeing your mapped a/f ratio and timing pull graphed out.
Robert

 

My Expirence With The Interface Has Been Tat It Will Occasionally Throw Codes For Maf And Iat Voltage

Also I've Found That Atleast In My Case That My Maf Picks Up The N20 Fairly Easy With The Nitro Dave Halo

 

As Of Now I Have No Need For Fueling Adjustments And Im Looking Into Just Removing The Timeing From My Tune As It Dosent Seem That Big Of A Deal

 

Also Make Dam Sure To Soider The Iat Grounding Wire The Interface Gave Me Nothing But Problems When I Tiried To Tap Into My Stock Wires Without Soidering

 

I addressed your running rich thread before seeing this. Take note that I did not rec the Interface as your cure. The Halo is kinda on it's own and trying to use the Interface for your varying a/f curve is not a fix. A more stable a/f curve is needed first, so that must be corrected. The only product that can do part time a/f (read, a/f per rpm) without affecting the n/a tune is the EFI Live COS 5, but even that is a band-aid fix. So, getting a stable a/f is paramount, whether it's lean or rich, before additional tuning can be effective. If you could post your a/f curve, we may be able to pin point a fix, but like I said in the other thread, I think it's the fixed position spray bar to far from the MAF on initial hit, then overwhelms the MAF and goes rich, but not so bad as to cause a safety concern. This is why I always have suggested a close mount for our nozzles, then you would start with the same a/f at the begining of the run and maintain same through out the run, and then it's very tunable. There is a chance that your fuel system takes a minute to catch up, and thus the request for a printout or a/f graph.
Robert

 

Come on now, lets be fair. The Interface had nothing to do with the way YOU tapped a wire as you stated, geeez.
Robert

 

Long Story Short That Wire Comed Even The Slightest Bit Loose And Your Motor Is Fucked ...

 

Also A Soidering Gun Can Be Had For $5 At Radioshack

Personally I Think Hsw Sholud Have Built The Harness For The Device To Allow Plug N Play Of This Wire...

In My Future Mods I Plan On Removing The Iat Sensor And Just Rewireing This Whole Dam Thing To Run With A 5 Wire Truck Maf\iat Combo When I Do That Ill Just Build The Iat Sensor Wore On The Interface Into My Harness...

 

You are assuming the nitrous would still be activated, in which case you are wrong. If the interface is not functioning correctly, it will not allow the kit to activate.

 

Not In My Case... The Wire Was Slightly Loose So My Iat Temps Would Bounce Arround While The Relay Was Still Active..

Its Good If You Desgined A Safety To Shut Down The N20 In Case Of The Wire Breaking But Still Soidering That Dam Wire Should Be An Absolute Must

 

And i see that you took it upon yourself to do that, so whats the problem? Every nitrous kit from any company comes with electrical connectors, but you are always welcome not to use them. unfortunatly we cant provide a soldering gun with all of our kits, which is why we provide connectors. I use connectors on certain parts of my own car and have never had a problem. This actually includes the Interface which controls my dry direct port.

 

I HAVE NO PROBLEM.. MY POINT WAS SIMPLY THAT ITS DANGEROUS TO USE A CRIMP ON CONNECTOR ON A WIRE THAT IF THE SLIGHTEST BIT LOOSE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS PROBLEMS...

BEING THIS UNIT IS DESGINED TO BE "PLUG AND PLAY" OR FOR THE PEROSN WHO DOES NOT WANT TO GET INTO MORE DIFFICULT INSTALLS(AND COLUD NOT VERIFY THAT THE TIMEING IS EVEN BEING PULLED WITHOUT A SCAN TOOL) IT SEEMS SMART TO USE SOME SORT OF BETTER CONNECTION LIKE A PINNED CONNECTOR OR SOIDERING NOT A CHEEP *** TAP IN


simply put my point was 2 fold

1: this wire is too important and senstive to rely on tapin connectors

2: it would be a better desgin if hsw took the time to add a connector to their harness that would allow for this unit ot be plug n play for ls1 cars (like it infers in the marketing)

 

Unfortunately the costs associated with manufacturing a custom plug for the IAT on the F-Body are not possible on a product that costs the end user $149.99, sorry. For the Y-Body and GTO users the IAT is integrated into the MAF so that connection is plug and play, but you still need to make the trigger and output connections.

Matt

 

also i noticed the interface has a tendacy to occasionally throw codes for maf voltages can you explain why the interface would do so

btw: it only happens when you select a higher number jet setting :ie 160 shot

 

Tech support can help you if you are experiencing an issue. Make sure you list the SES codes you are seeing:

http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/support

Matt

 

LOL....easy guys.

The Interface is a new product and bound to have a few issues on start. The Taps can be intermittant. I would recomend anyone to avoid using them if possible.
But thats really the only part that a manufacturer can send with for an easy hookup without cutting wires.

The recomendation to solder is a good one...or to cut the wire and use a quality butt splice with one side having two wires and the other side one wire and then shrink wrap(this is how I do it when no soldering iron is avalaiable). That really goes for any product or even the main kit.


Guys dont get all bent out of shape. This type of information and discussion is exactly the reason for this website. when a discussion like this is done in an informational manner it helps everyone....buyer...vender...and user.

 

well said