New NX dry maf results
Al, you really need to crank that bad boy up a bit, lol. Why did you guys decide to go with the 78mm version first? Seems to me the bigger stuff is much more prevalent and the pool increasing everyday. though I do realize they are coming later. If they were out for my car I would certainly throw one on in front of my DP. 
Robert
Robert
Heres the link to the kit....
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/20111.htm
Heres the link to the instructions....BUT they are instructions for just a regular wet maf set up.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Instru...supplement.pdf
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/20111.htm
Heres the link to the instructions....BUT they are instructions for just a regular wet maf set up.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Instru...supplement.pdf
Al, you really need to crank that bad boy up a bit, lol. Why did you guys decide to go with the 78mm version first? Seems to me the bigger stuff is much more prevalent and the pool increasing everyday. though I do realize they are coming later. If they were out for my car I would certainly throw one on in front of my DP.
Robert
Robert
I am headed over to Formatos this weekend to get big maf to start making a design for it.
Ill have to see if I can bring a disc or something to get the file off the computer. I dynoed at Fordspeed.com in Clearwater. Thier dyno is outside and so is the computer...lol. No internet to mail myself the files.
I dont remember the tq off hand since I was mainly concerned with AF. But it kickes like a mule.
Most people say dry kits hit soft...thats BS. Dry kits have taken that hit for several reasons..
1) rarely does a dry kit user install a purge...so the initial hit can be soft when not purged initially.
2) dry kits have routinely been a bit on the lean side and power tends to suffer. When you can get the AF you need...the TQ hit and resulting hp are just a result of nitrous flow...no different than a wet kit.
Dry kicks hard as ANY kit when tuned properly and flowing well.
I dont remember the tq off hand since I was mainly concerned with AF. But it kickes like a mule.
Most people say dry kits hit soft...thats BS. Dry kits have taken that hit for several reasons..
1) rarely does a dry kit user install a purge...so the initial hit can be soft when not purged initially.
2) dry kits have routinely been a bit on the lean side and power tends to suffer. When you can get the AF you need...the TQ hit and resulting hp are just a result of nitrous flow...no different than a wet kit.
Dry kicks hard as ANY kit when tuned properly and flowing well.
Heres the link to the kit....
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/20111.htm
Heres the link to the instructions....BUT they are instructions for just a regular wet maf set up.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Instru...supplement.pdf
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/20111.htm
Heres the link to the instructions....BUT they are instructions for just a regular wet maf set up.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Instru...supplement.pdf
One cool thing about the wet MAF and the DRY MAF...you can use them both TOGETHER if you wanted.
Front half of the MAF housing would be a dry hit...back half would be a wet hit. Hell you could two stage it with a 150 each for a total of 300. That would be cool
Heres the link to the kit....
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/20111.htm
Heres the link to the instructions....BUT they are instructions for just a regular wet maf set up.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Instru...supplement.pdf
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/20111.htm
Heres the link to the instructions....BUT they are instructions for just a regular wet maf set up.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Instru...supplement.pdf
Ill have to see if I can bring a disc or something to get the file off the computer. I dynoed at Fordspeed.com in Clearwater. Thier dyno is outside and so is the computer...lol. No internet to mail myself the files.
I dont remember the tq off hand since I was mainly concerned with AF. But it kickes like a mule.
Most people say dry kits hit soft...thats BS. Dry kits have taken that hit for several reasons..
1) rarely does a dry kit user install a purge...so the initial hit can be soft when not purged initially.
2) dry kits have routinely been a bit on the lean side and power tends to suffer. When you can get the AF you need...the TQ hit and resulting hp are just a result of nitrous flow...no different than a wet kit.
Dry kicks hard as ANY kit when tuned properly and flowing well.
I dont remember the tq off hand since I was mainly concerned with AF. But it kickes like a mule.
Most people say dry kits hit soft...thats BS. Dry kits have taken that hit for several reasons..
1) rarely does a dry kit user install a purge...so the initial hit can be soft when not purged initially.
2) dry kits have routinely been a bit on the lean side and power tends to suffer. When you can get the AF you need...the TQ hit and resulting hp are just a result of nitrous flow...no different than a wet kit.
Dry kicks hard as ANY kit when tuned properly and flowing well.
Robert
Another reason was the now out dated NOS 5177 which was really the beginning of the dry for theses cars, anyway, they rated at the crank, so a 100rwhp was an 80 shot really. Then someone would compare this to another companie's wet that was under rated, a 100 ends up being a 125. So the false old wives tale was started, the dry doesn't hit as hard. Like you said, what BS. Hell, I have made some unreal tq gains with the dry which I will put up against any wet hit in any shape or form. Ok, I'll stop before I get started, lol.
Robert
Robert
Thats not too bad..lol. I was imagining worse.
One cool thing about the wet MAF and the DRY MAF...you can use them both TOGETHER if you wanted.
Front half of the MAF housing would be a dry hit...back half would be a wet hit. Hell you could two stage it with a 150 each for a total of 300. That would be cool
One cool thing about the wet MAF and the DRY MAF...you can use them both TOGETHER if you wanted.
Front half of the MAF housing would be a dry hit...back half would be a wet hit. Hell you could two stage it with a 150 each for a total of 300. That would be cool
I also am interested in the Maf housing only, as I already have the old school NOS 5177 kit. Like stated above the only headach with that kit is the ever changing A/F!! I can't imagine being able to adjust it with the twist of a **** while in the staging lanes between runs!
Props to 383LQ for pushing this into production!
Props to 383LQ for pushing this into production!
I also am interested in the Maf housing only, as I already have the old school NOS 5177 kit. Like stated above the only headach with that kit is the ever changing A/F!! I can't imagine being able to adjust it with the twist of a **** while in the staging lanes between runs!
Props to 383LQ for pushing this into production!
Props to 383LQ for pushing this into production!
Robert
You will be able to get the MAF pice all by itself. I dont know what the cost of that will be yet. We just made some changes so the cost MAY come down a few bucks. No gaurentess yet.
The link on NX website is new I guess...still dont know if you can call and order it. Ill find out monday. I also clicked the install instructions...they are wrong. Those are for the NX wet MAF setup.
But install is pretty much a no brainer.
Ill see if I can get the full details on prices and when they will be spit out.
You guys that are getting one call up NX and bitch at them a bit In a nice way of course.
That will probably get them going.
well...thats the point really. I have had alot of dry kits...and this was the final result of some serious brainstorming and testing.
There are no other dry kits out ther that can adjust AF ratio. Not only does it adjust AF ratio...but you dont have to worry about bottle pressure in the way a wet kit will change AF ratio when bottle pressure is low of high. In the case of this kit..increased bottle pressure just means a slightly larger shot. I used to use that as a way to adjust the power level without changing pills. The difference between 900 psi and 1150 psi with a 125 pill could be as much as 25-35 hp to the tires. And when you bump up pressure you dont have to worry about AF ratio like a wet kit.
Keep in mind...this kit is going to come with the neat little auto-learn TPS. You just hook up the wires...push the button...go WOT twice and BAM! your done. Damn little gadget worked great when I installed mine.
Other thing to consider...it comes with NX's new badass bottle valve. It flows like crazy...but has two extra ports in the neck of the bottle. You can use one for a gauge or gauge sensor..and the other for NANO...or auto bottle heater with pressure switch. There are alot of benifits to being able to plumb your sensors into the neck. Mainly you can see what bottle pressure is and/or control your heater/NANO without the valve being opened.
NANO with htis kit would be awesome!
Most discount nitrous kits have the old school valve and must be upgraded to use NANO or plumb sensors direct into the bottle.
It aint the cheapest kit on the market...but it does quite a bit and comes with good stuff.
The link on NX website is new I guess...still dont know if you can call and order it. Ill find out monday. I also clicked the install instructions...they are wrong. Those are for the NX wet MAF setup.
But install is pretty much a no brainer.
Ill see if I can get the full details on prices and when they will be spit out.
You guys that are getting one call up NX and bitch at them a bit
In a nice way of course.That will probably get them going.
I can't imagine being able to adjust it with the twist of a **** while in the staging lanes between runs!
well...thats the point really. I have had alot of dry kits...and this was the final result of some serious brainstorming and testing.
There are no other dry kits out ther that can adjust AF ratio. Not only does it adjust AF ratio...but you dont have to worry about bottle pressure in the way a wet kit will change AF ratio when bottle pressure is low of high. In the case of this kit..increased bottle pressure just means a slightly larger shot. I used to use that as a way to adjust the power level without changing pills. The difference between 900 psi and 1150 psi with a 125 pill could be as much as 25-35 hp to the tires. And when you bump up pressure you dont have to worry about AF ratio like a wet kit.
Keep in mind...this kit is going to come with the neat little auto-learn TPS. You just hook up the wires...push the button...go WOT twice and BAM! your done. Damn little gadget worked great when I installed mine.
Other thing to consider...it comes with NX's new badass bottle valve. It flows like crazy...but has two extra ports in the neck of the bottle. You can use one for a gauge or gauge sensor..and the other for NANO...or auto bottle heater with pressure switch. There are alot of benifits to being able to plumb your sensors into the neck. Mainly you can see what bottle pressure is and/or control your heater/NANO without the valve being opened.
NANO with htis kit would be awesome!
Most discount nitrous kits have the old school valve and must be upgraded to use NANO or plumb sensors direct into the bottle.
It aint the cheapest kit on the market...but it does quite a bit and comes with good stuff.
Al, does the new NX bottle allow for the gauge to be mounted on top, like the NOS bottles. That's the main reason I stick with the NOS bottles, you can take a peek in the back window and actually see the psi in the bottle. The vast majority of bottles have the gauge on the side, which really makes no sense what so ever to me. NX got it right for sure with this kit though, and if the gauge location is the only issue, oh well. Pm sent.
Robert
Robert
Robert is your bottle like the Superhighflow valve that comes with the 5177? I believe the NX locations are the same.
As far as the gauges...you can get any gauge you want. I recomend you guys go to a hydraulic supply place for your gauges. I got a 2.5 inch glycerin filled 0-1500 psi gauge that is wayyy more accurate than any little NOS or typical nitrous gauge. It was $24. Ill take some pics later.
They have bottom fitting style or rear fitting style. I gte the bottom out...so you can rotate it up to rear it from the rear hatch.
As far as the gauges...you can get any gauge you want. I recomend you guys go to a hydraulic supply place for your gauges. I got a 2.5 inch glycerin filled 0-1500 psi gauge that is wayyy more accurate than any little NOS or typical nitrous gauge. It was $24. Ill take some pics later.
They have bottom fitting style or rear fitting style. I gte the bottom out...so you can rotate it up to rear it from the rear hatch.