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2 questions. timing and bottle pressure

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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 12:34 PM
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Default 2 questions. timing and bottle pressure

On a dedicated fuel cell with 2 stages 100 1st stage and 150 2nd spraying thru nozzles in front of the throttle body. and running 116 in the dedicated with a tr8 plug gapped at 33 what timming would you start out with? And do you guys run a pressure switch in the line I have a nx one that runs to the bottle blanket. So is that what you guys do to maintain bottle pressure. And before someone spreaks up im going to get a NANO soon $$. thanks
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 02:27 PM
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I just don't really understand the need for the Nano system.. I would love for someone that really knows what they are talking about to explain why its needed and justify the cost..
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 08:07 PM
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I was wondering the same thing. I just bought the same setup you have-the pressure switch going to the bottle warmer. I was told it was the best way to go other than the NANO. Would also like to hear comments from anybody using the same setup. Didn't look like too many stepping up to answer your question. This will get it back to the top anyway.
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Old Mar 8, 2008 | 07:53 PM
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hey anyone. I read the article in the G.M. high-tech about the study they did on nano and said on a 300 shot it gained like 40hp or something like that.
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Old Mar 8, 2008 | 08:52 PM
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When you heat the bottle, even with a pressure switch to control the heater, you still have a pressure drop when it starts spraying. So, you can start at 1050psi, but be at only 900psi at the end of the run. With the NANO, you start at 1000psi and you maintain 1000psi because the NANO pushes at a constant 1000psi.

The HPA or nitrogen is stored in the NANO bottle at 4500psi and stays a gas. It then has a pressure regulated pressure reduction valve that opens at 1000psi. As soon as it drops below 1000psi, it allows the gaseous HPA or nitrogen into the top of your N2O bottle, keeping it at a steady 1000psi. Keeping your N2O as a liquid at the bottom of your bottle to get pushed through the siphon tube.

You can only get so much consistency with the heater on a temperature switch, and only a little more on a pressure switch, then a ridiculous amount more with a NANO.
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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 12:53 AM
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Well said. Much better than if I tried to explain it.
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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 01:49 AM
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To the OP, what timing are you starting with on your N/A tune?
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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by dnkynrbk
On a dedicated fuel cell with 2 stages 100 1st stage and 150 2nd spraying thru nozzles in front of the throttle body. and running 116 in the dedicated with a tr8 plug gapped at 33 what timming would you start out with? And do you guys run a pressure switch in the line I have a nx one that runs to the bottle blanket. So is that what you guys do to maintain bottle pressure. And before someone spreaks up im going to get a NANO soon $$. thanks
Remember, the octane is going to be watered down mixing with your pump gas, so 116 will not be 116. Timing on a 250 shot can vary, meaning depends on a few things, compression, octane, exhaust system... Anyways, I would start at about 14/16° and work from there reading your plugs. Giving an absolute timing number for your combo would be a guesstimate at best.

Now on the push systems. I have gone dual 15lb'ers to combat the pressure drop per run, and usually only drop 50psi or less depending on size of hit. My way is really based upon volume, and also has the benefit of not having to change a bottle out all weekend long. On the transducer (press SW), I have tried them all and they aren't close enough in keeping pressure where I like it. So, I chose to run with no auto control. Once we are done with a run I can flip my SW and the pressure is back up before I get back to staging lanes, then clicked off. Running a dry hit, we also use this method for changing hit size and maintaining a correct a/f, just up the pressure and bingo a bigger hit. That won't work very well with a wet hit though, as no way to change/correct a/f ratio. Now don't get me wrong, the push system is a great idea, but until some more companies offer this product (that will cause price to come down), I'll stick with what I have as the $$ can be used elsewhere. By the way, the 40hp gain that was claimed in the mag article, well a $5 jet can also add that supposedly missing 40hp, though the push system is more efficient at getting the most hp out of a given hit size. Something to think about for allof us, lets say we run brand Q kit and we get 150rwhp out of their 150rwhp jettin, now e add a push system and get an additional 40hp, whoa, a 150 now becomes a 190 hit? Wonder if the n2o companies have thought this one out?
Robert
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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert56
Remember, the octane is going to be watered down mixing with your pump gas, so 116 will not be 116. Timing on a 250 shot can vary, meaning depends on a few things, compression, octane, exhaust system... Anyways, I would start at about 14/16° and work from there reading your plugs. Giving an absolute timing number for your combo would be a guesstimate at best.

Now on the push systems. I have gone dual 15lb'ers to combat the pressure drop per run, and usually only drop 50psi or less depending on size of hit. My way is really based upon volume, and also has the benefit of not having to change a bottle out all weekend long. On the transducer (press SW), I have tried them all and they aren't close enough in keeping pressure where I like it. So, I chose to run with no auto control. Once we are done with a run I can flip my SW and the pressure is back up before I get back to staging lanes, then clicked off. Running a dry hit, we also use this method for changing hit size and maintaining a correct a/f, just up the pressure and bingo a bigger hit. That won't work very well with a wet hit though, as no way to change/correct a/f ratio. Now don't get me wrong, the push system is a great idea, but until some more companies offer this product (that will cause price to come down), I'll stick with what I have as the $$ can be used elsewhere. By the way, the 40hp gain that was claimed in the mag article, well a $5 jet can also add that supposedly missing 40hp, though the push system is more efficient at getting the most hp out of a given hit size. Something to think about for allof us, lets say we run brand Q kit and we get 150rwhp out of their 150rwhp jettin, now e add a push system and get an additional 40hp, whoa, a 150 now becomes a 190 hit? Wonder if the n2o companies have thought this one out?
Robert
Rob, i started to think what you wrote but then i know a NX kit should be at1050psi. . A 150 shot is only a TRUE 150 shot if bottle is at 1050psi, right? Your 2 bottles are a great way , then swaping full bottles are good , but NANO is the best imo. Why because it gives you a true 150 shot or 250 shot (2stages) at 1050psi the whole run. and as long as you got nos in the bottle.

with 2 stages or a 250 shot , I would put 116 in the tank also . just a little insurance.imo

last , Timing sorry i'm not a tuner. but a 250 shot you should be pulling some.Plugs i uuse8's and gap to 25
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