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N/A power loss from timing loss?

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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 11:24 AM
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Default N/A power loss from timing loss?

Here's the deal-e-o.

I go to the track back in late '07 and crack off a shakedown run of 11.17@126 n/a. I had the suspension setup wrong, pushrods too short, flywheel coming loose (causing false knock)etc.

No I have it all fixed, but have 3.73's instead of 4.11's and TR-7's instead of TR-6's.

This weekend I go out N/A running 18 degrees of timing instead of 28 and it does 11.40@123mph, this is WITH all the problems fixed. On a 100 shot the time was 11.12@132 (no 1st gear spray). I figured I would fix the problems and do 11.0@126-7 and 10.70@135 on gas. The track wasn't hooking, which would account for some of the missing ET, but I don't think I should have lost 3mph from timing, especially after fixing the problems with the car.

Assume I make 540rwhp N/A on the motor tune (408 stroker), how much power loss can one expect going from 28 to 18* timing? Can't be 50+rwhp can it?

Last edited by TheBlurLS1; Mar 26, 2008 at 11:31 AM.
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 12:29 PM
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first off dont assume what u r making. way too many variables. and i assume u r talking flywheel as 540 rwhp is very genorous given your combo imo. 2nd 10 degrees less timing is a lot of timing. id say u are prob leaving 25hp on the table n/a. but if u dont have a way of pulling timing on the spray then u have no choice really. and there are several variables with mph loss. its really impossile to compare the runs unless all else was equal which it sounds like it def wasnt. traction can account for all kinds of mph u never thought possible. my old car could vary as much as 6 mph in the same night with a run i had traction vs one that a didnt. i wouldnt be too worried until u get some actual solid runs on the car.
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 12:38 PM
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10* is a ton of timing. I would expect a good size power loss from it. Also, you said you weren't hooking very well that night correct? Well, that is your explanation for the trap speed loss. As far as the original timing issue goes; if you dropped ten degrees of timing and only lost .2 seconds I would be pretty satisfied. Get some could traction on your nitrous runs and you should see into the really high ten second realm.
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 01:16 PM
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Why did you pull 10 degrees of timing on the shot you are running?
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by donkey mule
Why did you pull 10 degrees of timing on the shot you are running?
+1. I would pull less than 3-4 tops for that small of a shot.

I do pull 10 degrees in a 400 shot and I have run on motor just to see what it costs power wise. Same day I ran a 10.72 @ 126 1.5 60' and then with the timing out I ran a 11.01 @ 123 1.55 60'. Everything else was the same. Both were perfect launches with zero wheel spin.
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 02:44 PM
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i think he pulled 10 degrees just because the fact that 28 degrees is alot to begin with. am i right? although id think u could get it up to 20-22 without an issue.
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ls2 bait
first off dont assume what u r making. way too many variables. and i assume u r talking flywheel as 540 rwhp is very genorous given your combo imo.
I'm just throwing that number out there. I trapped 126mph n/a with the above problems and the raceweight is 3900lbs, so I figure it's making pretty good power. If it's not making 540, it's probably gettin' close. Has big headers, 4" exhaust, TEA/Trickflow 225's w/ Jesels, ported FAST 90, a custom cam, UD pulley blah blah blah.

I was having some issues with what I thought was pushing water, which is why I pulled so much timing. I rigged up a coke bottle on the overflow to monitor. It got about 1" of water in the bottom and didn't gain any more the rest of the night, even hot-lapping it, so I'm ruling that out. I plan on running more timing from now on. I am running PUMP gas with 11.5:1 SCR btw.


As for traction problems, I was cutting 1.75's with the pinion set wrong, but only 1.90's this weekend. The car dead freaking hooks on the street. I have sprayed it with a 50 shot (testing stuff) on the street and it hooked in 1st. At the track this weekend the tires would come loose at the top of 1st on motor.


Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
+1. I would pull less than 3-4 tops for that small of a shot.

I do pull 10 degrees in a 400 shot and I have run on motor just to see what it costs power wise. Same day I ran a 10.72 @ 126 1.5 60' and then with the timing out I ran a 11.01 @ 123 1.55 60'. Everything else was the same. Both were perfect launches with zero wheel spin.
That's exactly what I wanted to hear. Seems consistent with my losses.

I think I'm going to try and ramp it up to 20 or so on he 150 hit, which I have in it now. I threw those jets in looking for a 10 second slip and went down to 16* just for safety's sake. First run I had to lift and wasn't worth a ****, same MPH as the 100 hit. Last run on 150 I spun at what I thought was about 5800-6k(on motor), lifted and got back in it but I must have already passed the window. This caused the controller to think it was in 2nd. Then the tires REALLY spun when the spray kicked in (still in 1st) and it hit the limiter. I think this caused the lean shut-down switch to disable the spray for the rest of the pass because it was another 123mph slip.
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Old Mar 27, 2008 | 01:02 PM
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I dynoed my car a couple of weeks ago and by adding 7 degrees of timing I gained 43 rwhp with no other changes. Was set at 15* originally ( for a BIG shot ). Also this was on a mustang dyno with a big stalled TH350.
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Old Mar 27, 2008 | 01:36 PM
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Old Mar 27, 2008 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by youwilllose
I dynoed my car a couple of weeks ago and by adding 7 degrees of timing I gained 43 rwhp with no other changes. Was set at 15* originally ( for a BIG shot ). Also this was on a mustang dyno with a big stalled TH350.
50rwhp could account for a 3-4mph trap loss. I guess this means I just need to run more spray or some 104 octane.


Originally Posted by blaSSt
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 10:49 PM
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On my 408 I lost right at 50rwhp running 18° from normal 27°. I do have dyno printouts of these loses.
Robert
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Old Mar 31, 2008 | 11:17 AM
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On my 408 in my truck I lost 32 rwhp from 24* to 18* for a 200 shot. Then lost another 12 rwhp from goin to tr-7's from tr-6's. No timing and cold *** plugs will kill you n/a.
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Old Mar 31, 2008 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by built408
On my 408 in my truck I lost 32 rwhp from 24* to 18* for a 200 shot. Then lost another 12 rwhp from goin to tr-7's from tr-6's. No timing and cold *** plugs will kill you n/a.
I'm feelin' it now. I also went down to TR-7 plugs. The car got noticeably quieter when I put those plugs in.

Please tell me you picked it all back up plus the 200 on the 200 shot.
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Old Mar 31, 2008 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert56
On my 408 I lost right at 50rwhp running 18° from normal 27°. I do have dyno printouts of these loses.
Robert
Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
I'm feelin' it now. I also went down to TR-7 plugs. The car got noticeably quieter when I put those plugs in.

Please tell me you picked it all back up plus the 200 on the 200 shot.
I made 234rwhp with my 200 dry, and a dyno print out of every step to show the befores , during and afters. The other missing hp is/was lost to the fact that I also had a temp, piece of sh*t, ls1 intake for the nitrous pull. 50 for a nice 250rwhp. though, once my tune is set up the way it should be, the Interface, no n/a HP will be lost at all. My normal n2o tune is like that also, but for the dyno pulls I just re did my n/a tune. Things will be a little different once the DP Dry and interface come together this week, lol.
Robert
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Old Mar 31, 2008 | 09:28 PM
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this is the exact reason why im using efi live this go round so i can run a seperate timing/ fuel table for the n20.
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