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This is different. If you are spraying in your intake while in a burnout and then your tires hook it will blow the intake apart. I used to do it alot while in the burnout with a button. Gets your tires speed up really quick.
No buttom ends blown out around here from it. There are people around here hitting over 800 into their motors while in neutral. LOL
Thats what i was responding to.....IF u have a backfire u can kiss ur composite intake good buy.
Here's a video of my car:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=SwS65EBPtQs
I spray the kit for 1-2 seconds as it rolls out of the 2nd burnout(actually slowly spinning the tires in vht to coat them). Then I blip it twice when I clear the carb out.
On a street/strip car you really shouldn't need to do this. An open air purge should be just fine because you shouldn't have much nitrous line between the solenoid and the nozzle.
It is hell on bearings too.
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I will always have a "bang button".
Let me ask yall a question, what is the point to have a purge on a nitrous kit?? To bleed out any air that may have got in the line, correct?
You do the SAME thing when you purge it into the motor. When you have a 3ft+ long fuel line that might have some air in it, you want to clean it out before every pass.
Every car is different though....
ps- i have been running my car for over 3 years with nitrous, I purge every time. We went through my motor and the bearing look brand new......
Every car is different though....
ps- i have been running my car for over 3 years with nitrous, I purge every time. We went through my motor and the bearing look brand new......
Maybe some of the mindless lemmings will read this and do it too and run faster than they ever have! Then you can be an internet hero!

PS, a purge solenoid mounts right beside your nitrous noid so that will take care of that and I'm assuming you are running a return style fuel system so you actually have no air in the fuel line nor should you ever have since it is a sealed system......If you are running a deadhead style fuel system then you can put bleeds on the fuel side like a lot of the outlaw guys and Pro Mod guys do so that you don't have to hammer your rod bearings so much. But hey, what do I know.
Last edited by BAKED; Apr 15, 2009 at 07:17 PM.
Maybe some of the mindless lemmings will read this and do it too and run faster than they ever have! Then you can be an internet hero!

PS, a purge solenoid mounts right beside your nitrous noid so that will take care of that and I'm assuming you are running a return style fuel system so you actually have no air in the fuel line nor should you ever have since it is a sealed system......If you are running a deadhead style fuel system then you can put bleeds on the fuel side like a lot of the outlaw guys and Pro Mod guys do so that you don't have to hammer your rod bearings so much. But hey, what do I know.
Sorry, I will take advice from someone who builds Pro-Mods, Limited Street, and Outlaw drag radial cars over you. You have proved nothing to me.
So I will cont. to "hammer my rod bearings" every single pass I make
A few of those guys said that they did it to clean off their plugs but overall it seemed like everyone agreed that it was pointless and caused unnecessary damage to your engine....
I believe Monte Smith tunes as many big dick daddy nitrous cars as anyone and even he said that he never saw any gains from doing it, only damage.
Like I said, I knew I wasn't gonna change your mind about it and I honestly could care less, I just don't want some of the newbies on here thinking that they are gonna go faster if they do this.
I will say that if someone decides that they just have to bang it for some reason the do like CAM72 says, get the RPM's up to at least 3K first, otherwise you'll be picking up parts off the blacktop....
BTW, I'm not saying that the first time you do it your engine is gonna blow, I'm just saying that it causes extra wear on bearings that is unnecessary.








