How can I avoid a "nitrous hiccup"?
I'm partial to wet systems. Typically, the worse that can happen is your car will fall flat on it's face when they system starts up due to a rich condition. That is typically easily tuned out with jetting and/or feed line length.
Hope this helps,
BS
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Robert
I run wet kits because I'm in a bind when it come to dyno availability. If I had my choice, I would run a DP Dry. There will always be a risk of backfire, but wet kits cause fires in addition to the backfire.
Don't sweat the backfires. Just set your window switch to 3K and hook up to a WOT
You've just gotta stay on top of your tune. If the temperature drops, be prepared to pull a little timing and add a little fuel to compensate. Check your plugs often(at least), and run a wideband if possible.
I also don't like wet kits on LS1s unless it's a plate or fogger on a 4150 style intake. After seeing all the badass dry direct ports and other badass dry kits, I'd rather just stay with those and add fuel through the ecu.

Robert
Robert
I run wet kits because I'm in a bind when it come to dyno availability. If I had my choice, I would run a DP Dry. There will always be a risk of backfire, but wet kits cause fires in addition to the backfire.
Don't sweat the backfires. Just set your window switch to 3K and hook up to a WOT
I didn't want to start a wet vs dry argument.What I have is a TNT wet system,so that what I'm going with.I just wanted some info on how to avoid blowing up my car.I appreciate the advice,Thanks.I already purchased an MSD digtal window switch.I'll be getting tr6 plugs.And I won't try the N20 until I feel confident in my tune.Thanks again

Robert
Last edited by algws6; Apr 3, 2008 at 08:21 AM.



