How can I avoid a "nitrous hiccup"?
#1
How can I avoid a "nitrous hiccup"?
I'm going to be putting a TNT kit on my car this year.A couple of years ago I saw a guy in a Z06 blow the hood off his car and start it on fire.I was told that it was a nitrous hiccup.This is my biggest fear with running nitrous.What could have caused that, and what is the best way to make sure it doesn't happen to me?
#2
Just make damn shore your timing is right and the right spark plugs , right Jets and fuel mixture, nitrous pressure ,And dont engage it below 3000 rpms, Or go dry shot. I like the fogger because it spray directly in the cylinder . Spraying thew the throttle body is good but, just watch for fuel puddling that were the explosion come from
#3
Good advice above. I'd add that logging EVERY run with a WB is a good indicator of what is going on during your runs. Dry systems rely on your existing fuel system and MAF to keep up with fuel demand so, when you start spraying over 150 shot, it gets kinda hairy relying on your MAF to keep up with demand.
I'm partial to wet systems. Typically, the worse that can happen is your car will fall flat on it's face when they system starts up due to a rich condition. That is typically easily tuned out with jetting and/or feed line length.
Hope this helps,
BS
I'm partial to wet systems. Typically, the worse that can happen is your car will fall flat on it's face when they system starts up due to a rich condition. That is typically easily tuned out with jetting and/or feed line length.
Hope this helps,
BS
#7
definitely a WB, If you run a wet kit make shore you use a purge ,so keep from have a rich spike, And put the purge solenoid as close as you can to the nitrous solenoid .This get the gases out of the line and get the liquid to the solenoid.
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#10
Just make damn shore your timing is right and the right spark plugs , right Jets and fuel mixture, nitrous pressure ,And dont engage it below 3000 rpms, Or go dry shot. I like the fogger because it spray directly in the cylinder . Spraying thew the throttle body is good but, just watch for fuel puddling that were the explosion come from
Robert
#11
I think the hiccup as you put it is due to a bog.
I run wet kits because I'm in a bind when it come to dyno availability. If I had my choice, I would run a DP Dry. There will always be a risk of backfire, but wet kits cause fires in addition to the backfire.
Don't sweat the backfires. Just set your window switch to 3K and hook up to a WOT
I run wet kits because I'm in a bind when it come to dyno availability. If I had my choice, I would run a DP Dry. There will always be a risk of backfire, but wet kits cause fires in addition to the backfire.
Don't sweat the backfires. Just set your window switch to 3K and hook up to a WOT
#12
robert, i think you need to realize not everyone likes dry kits. there have been numerous people (including yourself) that have had a dry backfire, and just like a wet backfire it is usually because of user error. everyone on this site knows your opinion so just let it go. different strokes.
#13
My car backfired twice(and set the carb on fire for a few second) when going into 2nd. Pulled another degree of timing and bumped up the plate's fuel pressure, and it was mint.
You've just gotta stay on top of your tune. If the temperature drops, be prepared to pull a little timing and add a little fuel to compensate. Check your plugs often(at least), and run a wideband if possible.
I also don't like wet kits on LS1s unless it's a plate or fogger on a 4150 style intake. After seeing all the badass dry direct ports and other badass dry kits, I'd rather just stay with those and add fuel through the ecu.
You've just gotta stay on top of your tune. If the temperature drops, be prepared to pull a little timing and add a little fuel to compensate. Check your plugs often(at least), and run a wideband if possible.
I also don't like wet kits on LS1s unless it's a plate or fogger on a 4150 style intake. After seeing all the badass dry direct ports and other badass dry kits, I'd rather just stay with those and add fuel through the ecu.
#14
I run both, N.O.S Pro fogger and a shark nozzle dry. ,Ive been running nitrous for about 20 years and i just don't like spraying fuel horizontal threw the intake. The fuel just don't have time to evaporate ,heat make fuel evaporate but with nitrous witch is very very cold slow down the evaporation and the fuel is heavy and will lay down in the intake and if there is any kind of misfire on any cylinder will cause a violent explosion when oxygen enriched fuel over the whole intake, Now with the dry kit, Nitrous is not flammable it adds oxygen to the fuel witch make it more volatile ,With EFI like the LS1 style engines the injectors spray directly in the runner witch similar to a direct port were the fuel and nitrous is spray in the runner witch is contained to the specific cylinder. YOU must treat nitrous with respect if you don't it will bite you in the *** or billfold either way it hearts. Dont get me wrong Ive run plate systems in the past on carb. style engines and had my share of hiccup and back fire, But To me dry and direct port is a lot safer. but thats just me.
#15
robert, i think you need to realize not everyone likes dry kits. there have been numerous people (including yourself) that have had a dry backfire, and just like a wet backfire it is usually because of user error. everyone on this site knows your opinion so just let it go. different strokes.
Robert
#16
Good insight, and covers things in a nut shell. Our problem with the plastic intakes and backfire is the fact that the fuel rails and injectors become dislodged and big fires can occur. The wet backfire can be pretty violent, and a dry to a lesser extent, but still no burn downs known in the n2o world from a dry backfire. It's really not a gigantic problem, but it is there none the less. I have now even gone as far as choosing a Vic Jr intake for the added strenght of the aluminum and the center inlet (the front inlet is another area that effects the backfire being more violent).
Robert
Robert
I think the hiccup as you put it is due to a bog.
I run wet kits because I'm in a bind when it come to dyno availability. If I had my choice, I would run a DP Dry. There will always be a risk of backfire, but wet kits cause fires in addition to the backfire.
Don't sweat the backfires. Just set your window switch to 3K and hook up to a WOT
I run wet kits because I'm in a bind when it come to dyno availability. If I had my choice, I would run a DP Dry. There will always be a risk of backfire, but wet kits cause fires in addition to the backfire.
Don't sweat the backfires. Just set your window switch to 3K and hook up to a WOT
#18
I didn't want to start a wet vs dry argument.What I have is a TNT wet system,so that what I'm going with.I just wanted some info on how to avoid blowing up my car.I appreciate the advice,Thanks.I already purchased an MSD digtal window switch.I'll be getting tr6 plugs.And I won't try the N20 until I feel confident in my tune.Thanks again
#19
True, most of the regulars Know about the dry hits; however, if you see all the threads like I do, you'd see exactly how many get the dry thing totally wrong. I mean daily the old wive's tales fly concerning the dry hits, and I corrected some bull sh*t today. So please realize that I am not trying to convert guys like you, but when many thousands read a thread, and only, for the most part, the regulars respond, how many are picking up new info because of die hard guys like myself. Things would never change on any front if we didn't put all the correct info out at every chance. Once again, you imply that dry back fires are common, OK, my challenge to you is to prove this, find someone besides me that has had one. You won't, it's been an open challenge for many years. Mine was due to pushing my package to the absolute brink of disaster. So anyway, because you like wet, I could say the same thing to you, like, drop your insight and opinions because I know what you like. Hope this isn't taken as an insult, just letting you and others reading along know where I am coming from. By the way, you should see my pms and e-mails on the dry info sought, esp the new DP Dry systems, many think it can't be done, so we will be hitting this topic a lot, sorry.
Robert
Robert
Last edited by algws6; 04-03-2008 at 08:21 AM.
#20
I also saw the backfire at rsd and it was when he bogged off the line. There was also another black vette that was on the street that blew up like 10 ft from me.It was the 2nd race and he launched and bogged and it blew the fast intake up and lit the pieces on fire. he was lucky that someone had a fire extinguisher to put it out.