Guys with 408s and spray please come in...
#21
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-oxide/853474-my-nitrous-fuel-system-pics-galore.html
There's plenty of pics of my system in the first 2 posts. As for pulling fuel off the rails, I take my AFR on the driver side, the last side to receive fuel, and it runs perfect. So far I've run the 150 kit on it with no problems, probably creeping up on 700rwhp. Runs 10.8:1 for now, I plan on leaning it out a bit, or leaving it alone and put in the 200 pills.
There's plenty of pics of my system in the first 2 posts. As for pulling fuel off the rails, I take my AFR on the driver side, the last side to receive fuel, and it runs perfect. So far I've run the 150 kit on it with no problems, probably creeping up on 700rwhp. Runs 10.8:1 for now, I plan on leaning it out a bit, or leaving it alone and put in the 200 pills.
#22
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I am in the same boat, I have upgraded pump and wire kit, big injectors and high HP big cubes build, I dont like the idea of pulling directly from my stock rail anymore.. looking for alternatives.
#25
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=853474
There's plenty of pics of my system in the first 2 posts. As for pulling fuel off the rails, I take my AFR on the driver side, the last side to receive fuel, and it runs perfect. So far I've run the 150 kit on it with no problems, probably creeping up on 700rwhp. Runs 10.8:1 for now, I plan on leaning it out a bit, or leaving it alone and put in the 200 pills.
There's plenty of pics of my system in the first 2 posts. As for pulling fuel off the rails, I take my AFR on the driver side, the last side to receive fuel, and it runs perfect. So far I've run the 150 kit on it with no problems, probably creeping up on 700rwhp. Runs 10.8:1 for now, I plan on leaning it out a bit, or leaving it alone and put in the 200 pills.
#26
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i like the thought behind that. i myself still like the idea of a standalone though. some 114 in the tank and its $10. where as id have to put 5 or so gallons of 104 in my tank and it will never be the same mixture twice. $50. just seems to me in basic dummy thinking ill get a more consistant mixture with a standalone. although im not putting down your way as i like the simplicity of it
oh ya and i hate pulling from the rail. just seems like it would want to drain one side too rapidly on a decent sized shot.
oh ya and i hate pulling from the rail. just seems like it would want to drain one side too rapidly on a decent sized shot.
Robert
#28
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Gotta remember that i am dry also and the entire system gets the fuel from the rails, though I do have the reg and return at the rails (have successfully supplied a 300rwhp shot). Where the wet hit gets into trouble is when pulling even from dedicate rails, is the DP Wet, just no even distribution, but that's a whole different talk. But anyway, even the standard wet hits have no problem using the rail if the system is up to par. It's the stock systems that give problems. My n/a goals also require a good upgraded fuel system so it was a no brainier for me, kill two birds with one stone. i do have a dry stand alone in the works, for guys like you whom want to go the stand alone route, yep a dry hit with a stand alone, lol.
Robert
Robert
#29
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No I run pump gas 24/7. I've never bought a drop of racegas. I've run it on a 150 shot with 20* of timing so far with no problems. I had some detonation issues, but I'm fairly sure it was due to my TR6 plugs getting to hot. I swapped for TR7's and it runs like a champ. The car does seem to run better when I run Shell 93 though, so I always make sure to fill up there.
Pulling a fuel off of the stock rail, or even with a stock-style fuel system could spell disaster with a 408 and gas. Mine is a true return system, with the regulator located downstream of the rails. If my pressure ever drops, my regulator will slam shut and I will have 2 10awg hotwired Walbro 255's ramming fuel down a dead end line. With a single pump on, I can slam the throttle and watch the fuel pressure gauge dive for a split second. When I have both pumps on, it's so steady the gauge looks broken.
Pulling a fuel off of the stock rail, or even with a stock-style fuel system could spell disaster with a 408 and gas. Mine is a true return system, with the regulator located downstream of the rails. If my pressure ever drops, my regulator will slam shut and I will have 2 10awg hotwired Walbro 255's ramming fuel down a dead end line. With a single pump on, I can slam the throttle and watch the fuel pressure gauge dive for a split second. When I have both pumps on, it's so steady the gauge looks broken.
#31
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No I run pump gas 24/7. I've never bought a drop of racegas. I've run it on a 150 shot with 20* of timing so far with no problems. I had some detonation issues, but I'm fairly sure it was due to my TR6 plugs getting to hot. I swapped for TR7's and it runs like a champ. The car does seem to run better when I run Shell 93 though, so I always make sure to fill up there.
Pulling a fuel off of the stock rail, or even with a stock-style fuel system could spell disaster with a 408 and gas. Mine is a true return system, with the regulator located downstream of the rails. If my pressure ever drops, my regulator will slam shut and I will have 2 10awg hotwired Walbro 255's ramming fuel down a dead end line. With a single pump on, I can slam the throttle and watch the fuel pressure gauge dive for a split second. When I have both pumps on, it's so steady the gauge looks broken.
Pulling a fuel off of the stock rail, or even with a stock-style fuel system could spell disaster with a 408 and gas. Mine is a true return system, with the regulator located downstream of the rails. If my pressure ever drops, my regulator will slam shut and I will have 2 10awg hotwired Walbro 255's ramming fuel down a dead end line. With a single pump on, I can slam the throttle and watch the fuel pressure gauge dive for a split second. When I have both pumps on, it's so steady the gauge looks broken.
#33
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Pulling a fuel off of the stock rail, or even with a stock-style fuel system could spell disaster with a 408 and gas. Mine is a true return system, with the regulator located downstream of the rails. If my pressure ever drops, my regulator will slam shut and I will have 2 10awg hotwired Walbro 255's ramming fuel down a dead end line. With a single pump on, I can slam the throttle and watch the fuel pressure gauge dive for a split second. When I have both pumps on, it's so steady the gauge looks broken.
Robert
#34
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nope. all stock set up. walbro 255lph intank pump with factory lines and regulator in tank. stays at 48psi. tune, i'm still working on. according to my plx wideband, when i'm on the juice i go under 10:1. it just says RCH. i think i'm a bit on the rich side on the bottle.
Last edited by mrr23; 04-30-2008 at 08:27 PM.
#35
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Yea I agree, and we will continue to see more and more guys updating/modding there stock systems to handle all the 408, 413, 427 and 454s going in our cars and the 500 plus rwhp n/a. The stock non return systems, I agree will/can spell disaster in a matter of seconds. So, my opinion on this is to upgrade to the point that it can handle your spray shot also, just makes sense to me. Mine also is rock hard steady with both pumps on, not even a flicker of a lean spike with a 300rwhp shot. Though, lots of options out there on which way to do this, as mine is different than Blurs, but close to the same idea of two pumps, with one coming on with spray only.
Robert
Robert
300 shot! What are you rings gapped to and what head gaskets did you use?
#36
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I like Blur's setup and I would like to go that route. That's what I wanted to do I just didn't want to run race gas as I have to go to far to get to get it. I would rather just load up and go race.
300 shot! What are you rings gapped to and what head gaskets did you use?
300 shot! What are you rings gapped to and what head gaskets did you use?
Robert
#37
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28 top and 22 second and GM MLS, also L19 head studs. We can all run pump gas if we tune for such, however, the race gas and increased octane is just a safety belt in case something goes wrong we have a little cushion, but cushion can be had elsewhere in the tune.
Robert
Robert
Man I have really got so good info out of this thread!
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Thanks for the good info guys.
#39
That's what she said...
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How much timing are you running N/A? Well running pump gas may not be so bad I just didn't want to run race fuel in my tank all the time. That's why I wanted to get a stand alone for the race gas. I have TR6s now and I'm probably only going to spray a 200 shot max. If you don't mind I may hit you up with a few questions when I get ready to do the fuel system if I can't fins an answer in your thread.
On 16* of timing and 3900lb raceweight, I went a measily 123mph. On a 100 shot I picked up 9mph, only spraying 2-4th, and my car goes over 50mph in 1st lol. I started a thread about timing loss + N/A runs and have come to the conclusion that I was loosing over 50rwhp dropping 12* of timing.
I believe if your tune is good and leaning on the rich side, you could run a 200 shot on pump gas easily. My AFR is 11.2-11.0:1 depending on bottle pressure. Just make sure you use colder plugs than TR6's. If you're realling leaning toward pump gas, and want a little extra insurance, have them throw in a bit bigger cam and run the compression no more than 11:1. I have a relatively small cam (242/246), quite a bit of compression (11.5:1), and get away with it.
Last edited by TheBlurLS1; 05-02-2008 at 08:43 AM.
#40
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28 top and 22 second and GM MLS, also L19 head studs. We can all run pump gas if we tune for such, however, the race gas and increased octane is just a safety belt in case something goes wrong we have a little cushion, but cushion can be had elsewhere in the tune.
Robert
Robert