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Old May 8, 2008 | 12:21 AM
  #1  
BatmobileWS6's Avatar
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Default Best setup

I have searched a little but would like some opinions on what to do with MY setup. I am planning on adding nitrous...
Currently I have an ls1 with:
full bolt-ons
intake manifold
5.3 64cc heads
G5X3 112LSA cam
42# ford green injectors
The car makes 438rwhp and 385rwtq

My questions are as follows:
1.) What is the best type of setup and brand for this? (I'm thinking 150 shot)
2.) What parts do I need?
3.) With a 150 shot, what type of power should I see?
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Old May 8, 2008 | 12:55 AM
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I would go with a wet single fogger from Dynotune.
Get a bottle heater, a purge, and a window switch.
Colder plugs also. Run good gas and you are good to go. What kind of fuel pump do you have? You should see around 150hp, every car is different.
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Old May 8, 2008 | 09:11 AM
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I have plugs but I am on stock fuel pump.
What would be the benefits of wet versus dry or direct?
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Old May 8, 2008 | 09:22 AM
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wet is imo safer some people disagree not many but there are a few
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Old May 8, 2008 | 09:35 AM
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Many options, and no real right or wrong answer, its pretty much up to you. You should research the varies types and pick what suites you. Dry Nozzle, Wet Nozzle, Dry Plate, Wet Plate, Direct Port etc...

I would say a base kit, window switch, heater, purge, and plugs is a good start, as well as possibly a better fuel system (pump, Boosta pump...).

You are set up for a dry shot with your 42's, I would favor a dry kit with the HSW interface (unless you have access to HPT or EFI Live) for tuning.

The which is safer wet or dry is a couple days reading, do a search for everyones opinion in that exclusive LS1tech thread LOL.

Call the vendors to learn about the various system types and get their opinions (they after all have the most expierence with the systems they sell); Dynotune (Dean/Dan), Nitrous Outlet (Chris/Ray/Dave) and Harris Speedworks (Matt), have always answered my questions without pushing a sale.
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Old May 8, 2008 | 12:57 PM
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Okay thats what i need to research is the differences between the setups
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Old May 8, 2008 | 05:37 PM
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Lurking because I am thinking the same thing now. You are definitly going to need a fuel pump, just like I will. Our #'s are close. I'm @ 432rwhp / 403rwtq.
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Old May 8, 2008 | 05:41 PM
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I was thinking
Dynotune wet kit $380
Purge kit $60
Bottle heater $120?
Window switch (MSD digital?) $80?
TR6 plugs $20
Fuel pressure safety switch $?
Walboro fuel pump w/ wiring <$200
Gauges & pillar pod $?

Not sure I want to go that route yet though.
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Old May 8, 2008 | 07:57 PM
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if you want the best, direct port hans down. the cheapest one I know of is the moneymaker, but the nxl kit is the one I like the best. I just got a custom one with the nxl nozzles. dp is awesome.
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Old May 9, 2008 | 02:25 PM
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Why do you say direct port is best hands down?
And also, why does a dry kit favor the 42# injectors?
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Old May 9, 2008 | 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by BatmobileWS6
Why do you say direct port is best hands down?
And also, why does a dry kit favor the 42# injectors?
The direct port will have the best distribution, being that there is a nozzle in each intake runner.

The dry kit uses the factory fuel system to add enrichment fuel. Thus needing larger injectors above a certain point.
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Old May 9, 2008 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by krazy4
The direct port will have the best distribution, being that there is a nozzle in each intake runner.

The dry kit uses the factory fuel system to add enrichment fuel. Thus needing larger injectors above a certain point.
i would honestly say, and this is opinion, the best is as follows:
dp
dry
plate
wet nozzle

direct port has the best distribution of fuel and nitrous per cylinder and when you go to a bigger shot i believe the intake design leaves the #7 cylinder out of wack. again ive never tested this first hand but only read about it. id say since the high end plate systems are 800 bucks and a direct port kit is 1200 spend the extra bones and get something you wont have to replace on down the road. do it once, do it right.
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Old May 9, 2008 | 11:30 PM
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Okay Im leaning toward direct port but how safe is the direct port? What do you mean leaves the #7 cyl out of wack?
I dont want to spend a crazy amount of money but I am willing to spend to do it right.
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