Getting a instant hit off the line
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 291
Likes: 0
From: Vegas
If the max value the WOT switch sees it 4.6 set it to 4.3 seems like I have to do this once a year or so not sure why.
I had the same problem you can have a friend sit in the pas seat and watch the display is it the 3 digit?
this one?
If so watch for 1 1 0 if one of the 1's flickers to 0 then thats the problem.
Dont forget to raise the window back up b4 you test it.
Last edited by SY732; May 14, 2008 at 03:34 PM.
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 291
Likes: 0
From: Vegas
Sometimes they are a touch slow yes. BUddy of mine's car has this problem, he has a 3500 converter and the nitrous wasn't coming on until probably 3800 or so. He had a 3000 rpm chip in the car, msd window switch.
We pulled the chip out so it would come on as soon as the wot engaged, no rpm range, figuring that if the converter flashes to 3500 it would be o.k.,a nd it worked, took .2 off his times doing it.
If you have a loose converter in the car/truck, stop somewhere and just floor it, see what the RPM shoots up to, if it's over 3000 rpm, then try turning the rpm the nitrous turns on at lower.
This is probably something that can be done safly with 100 to 125 shots, any more then that it's probably not a good idea. Nitrous creates alot of cyl pressure, and that's what kills parts, engage it too soon adnd the pressures that are created at low rpm (more time for more nitrous to get in) can be distructive.
We pulled the chip out so it would come on as soon as the wot engaged, no rpm range, figuring that if the converter flashes to 3500 it would be o.k.,a nd it worked, took .2 off his times doing it.
If you have a loose converter in the car/truck, stop somewhere and just floor it, see what the RPM shoots up to, if it's over 3000 rpm, then try turning the rpm the nitrous turns on at lower.
This is probably something that can be done safly with 100 to 125 shots, any more then that it's probably not a good idea. Nitrous creates alot of cyl pressure, and that's what kills parts, engage it too soon adnd the pressures that are created at low rpm (more time for more nitrous to get in) can be distructive.
Use a real WOT switch and no minimum on the window switch.
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Sorry I just measured and there 24" lines.
I am running a Dynotune window switch (its digital).
Think maybe lowering the activation rpm to 0 would fix it?? Maybe its just a electronic delay making sure its above 1500rpm??
Its not going rich or lean theres just a delay. When it hits its hits nice and hard with no bog at all.
I am running a Dynotune window switch (its digital).
Think maybe lowering the activation rpm to 0 would fix it?? Maybe its just a electronic delay making sure its above 1500rpm??
Its not going rich or lean theres just a delay. When it hits its hits nice and hard with no bog at all.
A nozzle as your supply choice for diagnostics should have no change in what is happening, as they both work basically the same. Check out HSW's sight for a video of how their plate actually sprays, you will be amazed at how the 360° pattern works to put the spray into the intake. It's really the best method concerning any plate or nozzles coming in from the throat area. I think your problem lies else where, and many gave some ideas to check. You'll get it, just keep at it and good luck. Make sure you let us know what finally is the culprit.
Robert
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Yep thats the same window switch im using.
It has a built in WOT switch so thats what ive been using for my activation, are you saying that is what is causing the delay??
I wasnt thinking it was the plates problem since it does seem to have the best distribution into the intake, just throwing out ideas.
The window switch RPM matches the rpm the truck is running at.
For the WOT setup you just open the throttle to 100% and it sets the voltage for me, I think it is the 4.6 that you said, do you suggest not going all the way to 100%?? Thats the only way I can lower the voltage.
Ill mess with it tomorrow when there isnt a tornado outside haha.
Ill turn the activation RPM to 0 and see what it will do.
It has a built in WOT switch so thats what ive been using for my activation, are you saying that is what is causing the delay??
I wasnt thinking it was the plates problem since it does seem to have the best distribution into the intake, just throwing out ideas.
The window switch RPM matches the rpm the truck is running at.
For the WOT setup you just open the throttle to 100% and it sets the voltage for me, I think it is the 4.6 that you said, do you suggest not going all the way to 100%?? Thats the only way I can lower the voltage.
Ill mess with it tomorrow when there isnt a tornado outside haha.
Ill turn the activation RPM to 0 and see what it will do.
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 291
Likes: 0
From: Vegas
Yep thats the same window switch im using.
It has a built in WOT switch so thats what ive been using for my activation, are you saying that is what is causing the delay??
I wasnt thinking it was the plates problem since it does seem to have the best distribution into the intake, just throwing out ideas.
The window switch RPM matches the rpm the truck is running at.
For the WOT setup you just open the throttle to 100% and it sets the voltage for me, I think it is the 4.6 that you said, do you suggest not going all the way to 100%?? Thats the only way I can lower the voltage.
Ill mess with it tomorrow when there isnt a tornado outside haha.
Ill turn the activation RPM to 0 and see what it will do.
It has a built in WOT switch so thats what ive been using for my activation, are you saying that is what is causing the delay??
I wasnt thinking it was the plates problem since it does seem to have the best distribution into the intake, just throwing out ideas.
The window switch RPM matches the rpm the truck is running at.
For the WOT setup you just open the throttle to 100% and it sets the voltage for me, I think it is the 4.6 that you said, do you suggest not going all the way to 100%?? Thats the only way I can lower the voltage.
Ill mess with it tomorrow when there isnt a tornado outside haha.
Ill turn the activation RPM to 0 and see what it will do.
You are still going to put your foot to the floor every time you spray just set it at 4.4 and drive the same.
No dont lower the rpm you have already proved that does not work try the tests or change the WOT voltage a bit.
Mine would hit, then hesitate, then hit and all good...
I did not know what was up with at first and let it sit all winter till now. My 1st project was to put in ARP head studs as I was pushing water. N/A I was fine but on the spray it would disappear.
So, last weekend I tore the motor apart and found this.
and I found I had a leaky injector as an o-ring was pinched.....
The broken rocker pedastool relates to the dart heads and stock GM's pedastools dont line up unless you notch it, witch i did not know to do so it was sitting up off the head until it broke...
So, after I fixed that and put new 0-rings in and got her all back togther (along with new plugs) I sprayed it with the 100 shot shortly later and it was all good to go. No more hesitation at all...
Im not sure what it had to do with the N20 or even at all for that matter. Alls I know is those are the problems I had and fixed that and now the N20 is fine..
If it makes any difference I have my WS set up to come on at 3500, and I have a 4K stall.
I did not know what was up with at first and let it sit all winter till now. My 1st project was to put in ARP head studs as I was pushing water. N/A I was fine but on the spray it would disappear.
So, last weekend I tore the motor apart and found this.
and I found I had a leaky injector as an o-ring was pinched.....
The broken rocker pedastool relates to the dart heads and stock GM's pedastools dont line up unless you notch it, witch i did not know to do so it was sitting up off the head until it broke...
So, after I fixed that and put new 0-rings in and got her all back togther (along with new plugs) I sprayed it with the 100 shot shortly later and it was all good to go. No more hesitation at all...
Im not sure what it had to do with the N20 or even at all for that matter. Alls I know is those are the problems I had and fixed that and now the N20 is fine..
If it makes any difference I have my WS set up to come on at 3500, and I have a 4K stall.
Yea after watching your video again you can hear it activate then cut off then hit again. Mine doesnt do that, just launch then hit. But the delay is about the same.
I had some problems with the nitrous not coming in as soon as I wanted it to and then it would come on and off a couple of times down the track. I bypassed the mechanical wot switch and the problem has not come back yet.
mine works fine... id expect a small delay but just back up the rpm that its suppose to fire at(if its causing issues) i spray at 4000 but my convrter flashes past 4000 so my hit seems almost instant to me
01ws6 you saw my log you can see the msd aint really reacting that slow (.1-.25 sec)
01ws6 you saw my log you can see the msd aint really reacting that slow (.1-.25 sec)
