i am looking at doing a big cube forged everything turbo set up but will have to build it up over time. going to put together a good fuel system first, impeadance converter, maf 1/2 set up, big injectors, fuel lines/pump......

once i get the fuel system in place is there any reason why i couldn't run a really big dry set up to hold me over till i got the turbo set up going, thinking like a 300+dry.

 

The MAF will only register so much load. I believe you could get around this with the right programming, but you better know what you're doing.

And then there's the obvious fuel (you're going to need HUGE injectors and major overkill on the rest of the fuel system), plug, and ignition timing requirments...but you already know that.

 

i want to push 1000rwhp some day and plan on building a fuel system for that. big rails, BIG pump, big lines, some 100lb injectors. that part is prety easy.

i am reading about ways to double the maf capasity to 120+lb/min by halfing the signal some how, i dont really understand how they are doing it but it seems like it would work.

i guess my real question is does the maf read nitrous acurately just like it would a butt load of boost?

 

That's a very good question. I think it would be best answered on a dyno with a wideband O2 sensor. Have Autotap recording everything related to the ignition and fueling. Start with a normal amount of N2O and work your way up incrementally.

 

One problem to consider with a fuel system that large is injector pulse time. You will have a fuel system that is capable of delivering so much fuel that it will have a hard time running the motor at low rpm. Basically, the injector pulse time becomes so short that the injector spends more time opening and closing (it virtually has no "open" time) at idle and low rpm that the motor will have very inconsistent fuel delivery which can cause plugs to load up and unstable idle/driving characteristics. It would be easier (in my opinion) to use auxillary fuel to handle the extra load (wet shot), but it would be interesting to see what the dyno says.


Just my thoughts....

Kevin

 

i am not argueing that a big wet system would be easier and make more sence but i am building a fuel system for a future high hp turbo set up, i will have low impeadance injectors that i have been told react very quickly for such a large injector but i see your point, my injector pulse width at idle could be under 1ms and it might not be able to do that.

my order of mods is driveline, fuel sys, built motor, turbo set up. the turbo set up will be by far the most dificult and time consuming since they dont make a kit and i think i will just try and see how it reacts to a large dry shot.

i have a nx shark nozle kit, anyone know how big of nitrous jet they make for that set up or how much it would flow with no jet at all(running it as a dry set up). i suppose i could get a y off the solonoid and run 2 shark nozles, then i would have a prety good idea how much it was flowing. with the -4an line i would still be limited to about 300hp i think but that would be a prety good test.

talk about stealth, i could hide a BIG dry kit easy, the only obvious thing would be some big fuel rails, would that be obvious?

 

a 300 shot dry setup has already been done. i saw this on a LT1 car before. ofcourse it had huge injectors and a very good tune. his reason for doing it was that N2O flows well through the LS1 intake without fuel. once you add fuel through the intake you will start haveing problems above a 175 shot but the N2O by itself will be fine as long as you can get the required fuel from the injectors.

 

well im sure that anything's possible, but if you're allready spending the money and willing to drive around on a crappy tune all the time for the dry shot, go for it, i'd love to see somone else do this.

the only real reason you couldnt, as colonel mentioned, is that you'll run out of MAF. it does compensate for the A/F. how much and how accurate? you'd need good instrumentation to determine that. be a pioneer

 

Ive been running a 300 dry for some time now. You can take advantage of LS1 edit tuning using a dry shot this way. Make it two stages 150/150. Just find someone good that can tune for your injectors...apparently its all in how you scale the MAF. I have run atleast 7-8 big bottles through the new system in excess of 700 rwhp and with the new tuning have yet to even overheat a plug...on ANY cylinder. Dry can be very reliable if set up correctly.

 

Hey 383, I just got a dry kit Friday and dont know much about NOS exept it gave my truck a big pair of *****. Right now Im running a 63 jet, but I have a 86 jet Im going to install for the track. Any Idea what kind of HP these jets are good for? With the 63 the air fuel dips slightly when you first spray but quickly peggs the green agian. Will the fuel system even support an 86 jet? Thanks ahead for any info.

 

 

i will be seting up the maf to read double, seems that this is posiable from some other threads going on out there so 120lb+ of air per minute, i will be running some BIG injectors, probably some ~100lb/hr units, impedance converter, king sumo pump, big lines and rails. trick the IAT to pull timing when spraying, got a wideband, ls1edit and atap. i guess the only real question i have would be >> will the maf read and compensate for the nitrous acurately just like it was a bunch of boost?

see how much the stock motor can take and then build a strong one when it dies and go for the 300+shot till i can afford all the turbo stuff.

 

it's going to really be time more than anything. i've done very little research on the dual maf stuff, so smell what your steppin in, but will it compensate corectly? or semi correctly? im sure there's a table in edit somewhere to correct the fuel per temp, RPM and Maf flow rates. basically what im getting at is that, (apparently it does work to some extent,) but if it dosent compensate enough, you should be able to tune it to where you want it. i.e. Maf flow rates VS RPM VS fuel. i dont think 100# injectors will be necissicary, but if you're shooting overkill for a 1000RWHP setup, might as well learn how to make them work beforehand. but it's not going to be easy tuning a 422 or a whatever sized motor with low impedence injectors of that # there's not as much precision involved, basically a hit or miss. ya might just save for those later and tune on some 50's. those would be more than adequate for a large dry shot, with a good fuel system.

like i mentioned initially, if you've got the time, and the tools to pull it off, go for it. but it's going to be a feat, to say the least. mad props to ya if you decide to go this route.

 

i have heard coments about huge low impeadance injecotrs being easier to tune than BIG high impeadance one's. i am going to start a thread on that one in the fueling forum and see what others think.

and it isn't a duel maf set up but rather some way to electronicaly cut the signal in 1/2 there by giving you twice the max limit.

i think i will try it and see what happens.