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found the limit of my 408 :(

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Old Aug 3, 2008 | 05:33 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Loudmouth LS1
OMG I know, those things are the biggest pain in the *** ever!!!!!
Wire locks = the best thing ever.
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Old Aug 3, 2008 | 06:04 PM
  #42  
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untill one flies off and nearly misses your eye on its way to disappearing
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Old Aug 3, 2008 | 09:35 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 1dirtyZ
so i assemble the shortblock , and in the process i noticed that the crank doesn't spin freely ( as i'm used to have them), thinking its just a rough spot and it would go away i carry on.
so when i'm done the crank is very very hard to turn , i'm still thinking at that time its a rough spot ( didn't have any sleep the last few days, so as you can tell my judgement is impaired )

so on the way back from the garage , i was discussing this with a friend, and he told me that running the engine like that would result in an overheatd or welded bearing ( no why didn't i think of that )

which brings me to my question : are all the main bearings for lsx engines the same dimetion throughout the years ( mainly 2000 to 2004 ) ?? cause i'm starting to think that i got main bearings that are a bit tighter than whet was in there originally . keep in mind no machining was done to the crank.
You didn't check any clearances when you put it together with a plastigauge or anything?
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 12:54 AM
  #44  
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no, i was so tired i rationalized skipping that step by thinking: the crank is worn, and i don't know where the plastiguage is ; thus the clearances will be ok if not on the loose side

i'll be taking it appart today and see what i find.

back to the question though, are there different standard main bearing sizes throughout the years of lsx production , and do the 6.0 mains and the 5.7 mains differ in size?
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 10:34 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by 1dirtyZ
untill one flies off and nearly misses your eye on its way to disappearing
Who needs eyes?... (I've never used that one before, but find it applicable.)
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 03:35 AM
  #46  
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looool, where did you get that smiley from!!??

well i found out what cas causing the engine not to turn smoothly ,

as i was pulling the pistons out i found that the second one i put in had the lower oil ring fold into the skirt , and was scraping the wall

so a quick hone later , and a "new" (read canabalized ) lower oil ring from the other pistons and the piston was fixed ..... well untill one of the other pistons fell out of the bore as i was removing it and chipped the brand new 2nd compression ring ,,,,, so out came the old piston to the rescue with the old 2nd ring

i'm happy to say that the crank spins freely now, and the rotating assembly no longer requires a 5 ft prybar to turn

here is the piston i was talking about :



and here is the chipped ring:


now i just need to get the cam back from the machine shop ( fix the dowel thingy that broke) and i can button up engine.
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 09:06 PM
  #47  
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That sucks about dropping the piston. I dropped my brand new electric fuel pressure gauge on the road in front of my house and dented it not two minutes after taking it out of the box. Did you use a ring compressor to install the pistons?
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 01:51 AM
  #48  
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the sad part is i am using a ring compressor
i guess next time i'll just re bevel the edge of the cylinder bore after honing it .
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 06:29 AM
  #49  
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well i finally got it all together and in the car , only part left now is the flex plate ( i don't want to reuse the stock one, so i got a huges sfi unit . while i wait for it to show up i'll have the tranny freshened up .

and here's a question for you guys, i never built an engine with standard tension oil rings, but will using them make the rotating assembly just a bit harder to spin when compared to low tension oil rings?
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 08:27 AM
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I just don't see anythign good comming of this build the way you didn't check anything or have anything machines/cleaned/squared.....

Good luck though i hope im wrong.
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 06:56 PM
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loool , i know i sound like a hack, but i did go back and check the mains, if i remeber correctly they came in at about 20 thou. ( don't quote me on this, i have it scribbled down some where , i'll have to check), as for cleaning , i think two boxes of brake cleaner should do the job

and whats wrong with rebearing it without machining it - thats what i did to this engine when i pulled it off the camaro and it ran fine till i roasted the pistons
( the phrase " if it ain't broke, why fix it " comes to mind )

i know i should have had the block machined , but if i did so , it would need to go to 60 over, and then the pistons i have would not work . so , untill i get 60 over pistons, all this block is seeing is a hone job
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 12:12 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by 1QuickT-A
Since we are on this subject.. What kind of timing and plugs for 300 shot on 408 with just under 12:1 compression? I was thinking TR8's gapped around .035 and something like 12*-15* of timing with C16 fuel.. I need some opinions from all you pros!
350 SHOT ON A FOGGER
34 NOS JET, 32 FUEL JET
NGK #9 PLUGS
.35 GAP
16* TIMING
C16 FUEL
414CI IRON 6.0
THIS IS MY SETUP, EVERY CAR IS DIFF THOUGH.

Last edited by blown69ls1; Aug 11, 2008 at 12:20 AM.
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 12:19 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by 1dirtyZ
loool , i know i sound like a hack, but i did go back and check the mains, if i remeber correctly they came in at about 20 thou. ( don't quote me on this, i have it scribbled down some where , i'll have to check), as for cleaning , i think two boxes of brake cleaner should do the job

and whats wrong with rebearing it without machining it - thats what i did to this engine when i pulled it off the camaro and it ran fine till i roasted the pistons
( the phrase " if it ain't broke, why fix it " comes to mind )

i know i should have had the block machined , but if i did so , it would need to go to 60 over, and then the pistons i have would not work . so , untill i get 60 over pistons, all this block is seeing is a hone job
HOW MUCH WHERE YOU SRAYING BEFORE THE MOTOR LET GO? WHEN I HAD THE 408 I WAS AT 350 ON A FOGGER. WHAT BLOCK ARE YOU USING?
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 01:53 AM
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i was spraying 400 on the fogger ( progressive) and there was a 100 shot on stand by ( don't think it worked cause i never felt anything when ever used it )

the motor never "let go " per-say, it was running great ; i only noticed the knocking when i put the exhaust back on . and when i took the plugs to check wether i had a coolant leak because of a gasket problem i was surprised to find the plugs like they were !
i still can't belive how smooth the thing idled and how strong it pulled ( i drove it a bit just before i pulled the plugs) with the plugs being like they were.
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 08:23 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by blown69ls1
350 SHOT ON A FOGGER
34 NOS JET, 32 FUEL JET
NGK #9 PLUGS
.35 GAP
16* TIMING
C16 FUEL
414CI IRON 6.0
THIS IS MY SETUP, EVERY CAR IS DIFF THOUGH.
What does it run?

I would use a colder plug, tighter gap and less timing.

What heads are you running?
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 05:36 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by ATVracr
What does it run?

I would use a colder plug, tighter gap and less timing.

What heads are you running?

It tried to run 10's, but no luck. The car ran the best on the dyno with this plug/gap and i have it on a safe tune. Trick Flow 225 CNC heads, LMR and LME done the work. Car ran a best of 8.81 @ 154
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Old Aug 13, 2008 | 09:32 AM
  #57  
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The dyno is not the track. Your probably getting away with the plug and the gap since its to rich. most experts will tell you 2 spread is not enough even at 5 psi. what do the plugs look like?

8.81 is a good run but id bet theres more in it when you nail the tune

Last edited by ShiznityZ28; Aug 13, 2008 at 09:52 AM.
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Old Aug 13, 2008 | 02:46 PM
  #58  
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There is still some room left. Car has a pretty safe tune in it right now. The plugs after one pass looks perfact. Im not even leaning on it really yet. Car can go lean still. I have the stand alone system set at 6 1/8 psi with the NX flow guage. Pending on weather. If i really want to lean on the car it should go high 8.50
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Old Aug 13, 2008 | 02:49 PM
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Steven Faraday and Josh @ LMR did a awsome job with the car.
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Old Aug 13, 2008 | 04:57 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by ATVracr
Most times you will do less damage when its lean and has to much timing.

To rich and very little timing will tear some **** up !!
Could you explain this a bit? I thought too rich will not do any harm (unless you run 9:1), and retarded timing is not too bad too
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