nahasapeemapetalon

iTrader: (9)

I know. Just have to make more power right?

Danger731

iTrader: (3)

where do you get a 4000 lb trans am !, you got 15 inch subs or after market electronics ?>

ShiznityZ28

iTrader: (11)

Mine was 3500 on the 8.9 pass.

nahasapeemapetalon

iTrader: (9)

The only weight reduction I have done is taken front sway bar out for 3920.

It has a/c, subframe connectors, ford 9", 4l80e and two nitrous bottles in it.
No speakers or anything like that. Everything else is stock.
Thats with me in it so the car is only 3700lbs.

OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

More good knowledge in this paragraph than probably 50% of the posts in this forum..... JMO.....

People are starting to come around to the theory that super fat tunes can destroy motors.... Also people stick to the 2 degrees for 50hp and call it a day but you have to see what YOUR motor likes. My motor made more power at 32 degrees base timing than 34 or 36.... I would have set it at 36 and called it a day if I tuned it... My tuner knew better.... So if I had my timing at 36 and retarded my timing 8 degrees for a 200 shot I'd be at 28 degrees..... Easily enough timing to kill the motor..... I use a 2.7-3.1 degrees for 50hp baseline..... So now my 200 shot with my base 32 degrees becomes more like 21 degrees..... Difference of 7 DEGREES!!!!!! Keep the A/F's in a reasonable zone and NEVER run alot of advance.... I think new guys should be restricted to pulling 3 degrees per 50hp or they can't buy a nitrous kit...

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

My motor tune was set up for a 105 unleaded **** fuel because that's what I tried to run it on initially, so the thing only ever had about 21 degrees of timing in it because of that. I put 116 in it even with the timing down and it picked up .2 and 3 mph, never tried any more timing, but I know it would have taken it.
We took 5 degrees out for the little plate kit, I've had it jetted at 100, 125 and 150 and the plugs don't even start to show any color or anything until I put the 150 jets in it. And it's still way safe, I can run the same plugs all day if I want to because they're not getting any heat.

Starting off safe, with more timing pulled then needed, more octane then needed and a colder plug then needed is never a bad idea. I hate to tell anyone to leave a #6 plug in a car with a 150 shot or more, I know there are people doing it, but I would never take a risk like that, it's just not worth it.

OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

i'm running 110 octane race fuel right now for the 150 and 175 shot..... after that only C16 will go in the tank.

non projected plug, pulling about 3 degrees per 50hp and shooting for about a 12:1 AFR on these small shakedown shots...... I'm keeping the shots low while I get used to the car and making my licensing passes for 9's.... going 10.60 on motor doesn't give me much room for going crazy on jetting while making my NHRA license passes....

vette_c6

i am glad that every body here in an Nitrous expert

well here is my stuff
Wisco Pistons -3.2 Flat Bore 4.005 ( same stock LS2 )
COmpstar Connector the one in speed inc
headers Long tube 1 7/8
FAST 92
With ZEX WET SYSTEM
which is will be inside the FAST

patriot heads
Combustion Chamber: 59cc
Intake Runner: 227cc
Exhaust Runner: 70cc
Intake Valve: 2.055"
Exhaust Valve: 1.57"
Max. Valve Spring Lift: 0.650"
Heavy duty Oil Pump Melling
JP LS2 Single Roller Timing Chain Set
Underdrive Pulley SLP
Haltech intake

but i didnt buy my Camshaft yet ,,
my piston compression will be around 11.7
got any idea how much i can make N/A ?
and how can i orginize my camshaft ?

the other thing is what should my Ring piston space be ? i mean when you take it around the piston i shouldnt make them close to gether in the end ( i guess ) so what should the distance be??
sorry for the language guys ,, i am foreign

jetblast

how much timing did you take out, if any, with the 12.5afr or did you keep the same timing that you had when you ran richer?

ShiznityZ28

iTrader: (11)

You definatly need to pull timming we started with 5 degrees on a 150, 9 on a 225 and get the a/f correct on the plug along with the heat range. then slowly add timing until it starts to slow down while watching the plug. the nice thing is the fast can add .33 deg at a time.

But be carefull timming won't hurt you until the a/f is close then it can hurt parts fast.

Bucktooth

I just got tr7 and tr8 plugs, and they are projected tip plugs. Is this what you guys use? I have heard non projected tip plugs are the way to go over 175???

vette_c6

question about the AFR
do u increase the AFR because you are using Plates for nitrous ? or because you must ?
i am using Direct PORT
which is mean 8 fogers for each piston ,, does that mean i also have to increase the FUEL ? and what should my AFR be ? 12.00 ? 11.5 ?
before when i used to use the magnacharger it was 11.8
what should i put now ?
thanks

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

The nitrous system is going to add fuel when it's on, but I'd aim to get your motor tune around 11.7 give or take as a starting point. That's about where you want to end up anyway with the nitrous.

ShiznityZ28

iTrader: (11)

We have 2 cars a plate car and a DP car(atvracer's) The one were racing right now is the DP.

We run around 12.5 on a 325 hit. but the number means less than the fuel ring on the plug.