less power with bigger shot of nitrous
recently changed my nitrous setup to a stand alone fuel system and put in a nitrous outlet plate. i put a 91 jet in the nitrous and a 82 jet in the fuel and set my regulator at 6.5 psi. i put it on the dyno friday nite and on motor it was the same as last year, i did very little tweaking to get the a/f correct and when i sprayed i set up the fjo progressive to start at 50% and end at 75% with a 2 sec ramp. it then made 436 to the tire(this was on a mustang dyno so the numbers will be lower) i thought that seemed a lil low but went ahead and set it to 100% and only increased to 444 ! (and with my old setup with a nitrous works plate and a 175 shot it made 456hp).thats alot less than the 550 i was hoping for. air fuel was 11.2 to 11.7 all the way through except after 6 grand it went to 10.9. i was running from 3000 rpm to 6000 rpm. and the last pull i went to 6200 rpm thats where it went fat, no biggie since i shift at 5900 anyway.
any ideas on why it would be less power with a bigger shot? this is a 388 lt1 with a 503 cam in and a 4l60e with 3.73 12 bolt, speed density tune. unlocked converter yada yada yada. car has been a best of 10.67 with old setup and went 10.80's saturday with this new setup.
If you are jetted for 300 hp and set the controller to 50%...this is not a 150 shot...it is a 300 shot 50% of the time. The pulse frequency, solenoid coils, bottle and fuel pressure,and voltage will all affect the speed at which the solenoids pulse.
For tuning purpose set the controller to 100% with no ramp....tune A/F ratio....and verify if you have any convertor slippage by comparing wheel speed vs RPM
my old combo had a set of LT1 casting that made 500whp on 150 shot and 525 on a 200 Shot this was on a baseline of 390whp....swapped in a better set of heads and the car made 507 on a 100 shot and 618 on the 200 shot...on a 400hp baseline.
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I run my car at 12.3-12.5 on 300+ of N20 and the plugs look good.
Locking the converter will just give you a number on the dyno, take it to the track and run it that will tell you if its making power. Do you lock it at the track?
Dont lock the converter (sounds like its not an option anyway) your trying to simulate racing and if you dont race that way dont dyno it that way.
you need to upgrade the nitrous side to this....
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...roduct_id=2616
its a 4AN line with a 3AN nut on one end to attach to the plate.
You will also need a new fitting for the solenoid....I am assuming the solenoid has a 1/8npt port...
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...roduct_id=2704

