Couple dry kit questions
#1
Couple dry kit questions
Ok i read most of the stickys and still need a couple quick answers....I got my dyno-tune dry kit with fpss, purge, lean shut down. Im going to be running a max 75 shot. I have one step colder plus (tr6). My question is am i missing anything else i need to do? Will i need to have the car re-tuned for the nitrous? It currently has a East Side Perfromance tune. And last but not least ive heard something about having to emove the mass air sensor screen for this dry shot...is hat true?...Thanks for any help....
#2
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I heard that with a dry shot you don't need a purge because a purge is to let any air that is in the system out mostly only on a wet shot, and with a dry shot you only have nitrous so it is basically pointless. Then again that is only what I've heard and not what I have done, I to have the same kinda question just bought the NOS 5177 kit a few days ago and going in soon, good luck.
#3
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I heard that with a dry shot you don't need a purge because a purge is to let any air that is in the system out mostly only on a wet shot, and with a dry shot you only have nitrous so it is basically pointless. Then again that is only what I've heard and not what I have done, I to have the same kinda question just bought the NOS 5177 kit a few days ago and going in soon, good luck.
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I'll tell you my experience with this part...I tried to get a good nozzle position with the nozzle before the MAF, but it was never good and the car kept going lean and misfiring. Now my SLP lid looks like swiss cheese.
I bought the Harris Speed Works Interface...now spraying AFTER the MAF and my air/fuel ratio is perfect..my car has never been tuned.
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For a good tune you need to make sure you get the smae good nitrous there every time. now you do not have to have a purge but it will make the car more consistenat.
As for turning it on in the box. You can do that but It could lead to issues or it could be just fine. might be worth the $75 or so for a purge.
But most of the big nitrous guys with carbs have a bang button. I always wanted to put one on but im a wuss. basiclly it bangs 1 or all the kits threw the car at idle with the throttle closed in nutral. Most of them swear by it saying it cleans the plugs and purges the line all in one. But i can't recomend it on a ls1 since i have never tried it.
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I'll tell you my experience with this part...I tried to get a good nozzle position with the nozzle before the MAF, but it was never good and the car kept going lean and misfiring. Now my SLP lid looks like swiss cheese.
I bought the Harris Speed Works Interface...now spraying AFTER the MAF and my air/fuel ratio is perfect..my car has never been tuned.
Last edited by jetlag; 09-27-2008 at 04:12 PM.
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To the original poster, I'm sorry for giving you my experience with nozzle placement...it is obviously wrong and HSW should stop selling the Interface.
Last edited by jetlag; 09-27-2008 at 07:07 PM.
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IMO, if I would have spent a little extra money at first and bought Interface, I wouldn't be spending even more buying a new lid now.
Yeah, spraying before the MAF does work for a lot of people, but it didn't more me..but I wouldn't take the chance again. But drilling random holes in the lid and hoping for a good a/f ratio just seems silly to me.
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I never claimed to be an expert, but you, are acting like a child. Oh, and that part you wrote that I made bold...yeah, swiss cheesing the lid if the A/F isn't right, like I said. So you just proved my point.... if you recommend moving the nozzle location, then that means you'd be having trouble with it!
To the original poster, I'm sorry for giving you my experience with nozzle placement...it is obviously wrong and HSW should stop selling the Interface.
To the original poster, I'm sorry for giving you my experience with nozzle placement...it is obviously wrong and HSW should stop selling the Interface.
#17
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Ha, yeah I know, I was just messing around since the other guy acted like the solution to my problem was wrong.
IMO, if I would have spent a little extra money at first and bought Interface, I wouldn't be spending even more buying a new lid now.
Yeah, spraying before the MAF does work for a lot of people, but it didn't more me..but I wouldn't take the chance again. But drilling random holes in the lid and hoping for a good a/f ratio just seems silly to me.
IMO, if I would have spent a little extra money at first and bought Interface, I wouldn't be spending even more buying a new lid now.
Yeah, spraying before the MAF does work for a lot of people, but it didn't more me..but I wouldn't take the chance again. But drilling random holes in the lid and hoping for a good a/f ratio just seems silly to me.
Hey clown plenty of guys have been 9's with a single nozzle in front dry with no interface. I helped ATV build his....
We never drileld a hole in the lid. just a $8 fram air filter. Ther 2 locations we used were 2" towards the TB from center Air filter and dead center. 1 was if the track was weak and the other was if it was hooking.
Maybe you need to look at the trouble you had and realize you did not know what you were doing and let the guys who have working kits tell him (and you) how to fix it.
I was trying to help him nt tell him to buy an un needed expensive piece of equipment. he wants to spray a 75 shot. it would not be worth the price of the all mighty "edge"
Funny how we have been 9.0 on a wot switch and digital msd window switch and you guys need a super duper fancy unubtanium box to run 11's. LOL
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Many different ways to skin a cat...Neither ways are the "correct" way for everybody. In our opinion we saw many people were having troubles dealing with nozzle placement and getting their a/f dead on so we introduced the interface to help ease those problems. Does that mean that this is the only solution, not at all. In my opinion however, it is the easiest way to get your a/f set. If you have any questions about how it works or what it does, please by all means ask away. In the end, we and all the other forum members are all here to assist one another. Thanks
Nick
Nick
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Many different ways to skin a cat...Neither ways are the "correct" way for everybody. In our opinion we saw many people were having troubles dealing with nozzle placement and getting their a/f dead on so we introduced the interface to help ease those problems. Does that mean that this is the only solution, not at all. In my opinion however, it is the easiest way to get your a/f set. If you have any questions about how it works or what it does, please by all means ask away. In the end, we and all the other forum members are all here to assist one another. Thanks
Nick
Nick
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bringing this thread back to give my experiences on a car we did a few days ago on a 125 shot. with a aggressive n/a a/f mixture we could not get lower than mid 12s afr poking through the air filter. ended up wasting a day at the dyno and we decided to get that hsw interface anyway and another rental of the dyno. all said and done i wouldnt risk blowing a day at the dyno just get the stupid interface for how cheap it is.
i felt this thread was obtaining nozzle placement for optimal af on and off the juice. i was curious if shiznityz28 changed his na tune to get his n20 af.
i felt this thread was obtaining nozzle placement for optimal af on and off the juice. i was curious if shiznityz28 changed his na tune to get his n20 af.