Nitrous noob....what caused this?
10-02-2008, 10:48 AM
#121
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If this is true, and you're as great as you think you are.... WHY ARE YOU STILL HERE
What did you want to know? We have done a few Vic. Jr. swaps.
Again what do you need answered?
10-02-2008, 11:00 AM
#122
SPLATT you need to pull some timing out of it woudl be the easiest thing. TR6s are fine on a stock chamber with 150 shot with the right tune. With real gas weve hit it with almost 100 more on TR6s, although its better to err on the colder side of plugs for nitrous use, and less timing.
ATVs car likes really cold plugs NA to begin with, plug location, its heat retention and chamber design have alot to do with it. Stock castings dont need an 8 on a 150 shot, it wont hurt on the nitrous but it might not like it on the motor, and might be more prone to fouling plugs. Turn the timing back to around 18 degrees get the a/f right and then take a little away and put a little in, let the motor tell you what it wants
.... I'll give you the same info you gave me .....
10-02-2008, 12:02 PM
#126
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so get new tr-6s and pull more timing and use at least 93+ octane and make sure the a/f is good (make a pass and read the plugs)
my 150 shot is a dry shot, but i have a torquer 2 and my total timing on spray is 22* i pulled 5*
my 150 shot is a dry shot, but i have a torquer 2 and my total timing on spray is 22* i pulled 5*
Last edited by bad6as; 10-02-2008 at 12:10 PM.
10-03-2008, 08:56 AM
#129
My cams, stock PCM cars, results on my dyno mainly. Not that it matters this thread is dumb
SPLATT you need to pull some timing out of it woudl be the easiest thing. TR6s are fine on a stock chamber with 150 shot with the right tune. With real gas weve hit it with almost 100 more on TR6s, although its better to err on the colder side of plugs for nitrous use, and less timing.
ATVs car likes really cold plugs NA to begin with, plug location, its heat retention and chamber design have alot to do with it. Stock castings dont need an 8 on a 150 shot, it wont hurt on the nitrous but it might not like it on the motor, and might be more prone to fouling plugs. Turn the timing back to around 18 degrees get the a/f right and then take a little away and put a little in, let the motor tell you what it wants
SPLATT you need to pull some timing out of it woudl be the easiest thing. TR6s are fine on a stock chamber with 150 shot with the right tune. With real gas weve hit it with almost 100 more on TR6s, although its better to err on the colder side of plugs for nitrous use, and less timing.
ATVs car likes really cold plugs NA to begin with, plug location, its heat retention and chamber design have alot to do with it. Stock castings dont need an 8 on a 150 shot, it wont hurt on the nitrous but it might not like it on the motor, and might be more prone to fouling plugs. Turn the timing back to around 18 degrees get the a/f right and then take a little away and put a little in, let the motor tell you what it wants
__________________
2013 Corvette Grand Sport A6 LME forged 416, Greg Good ported TFS 255 LS3 heads, 222/242 .629"/.604" 121LSA Pat G blower cam, ARH 1 7/8" headers, ESC Novi 1500 Supercharger w/8 rib direct drive conversion, 747rwhp/709rwtq on 93 octane, 801rwhp/735rwtq on race fuel, 10.1 @ 147.25mph 1/4 mile, 174.7mph Half Mile.
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2013 Corvette Grand Sport A6 LME forged 416, Greg Good ported TFS 255 LS3 heads, 222/242 .629"/.604" 121LSA Pat G blower cam, ARH 1 7/8" headers, ESC Novi 1500 Supercharger w/8 rib direct drive conversion, 747rwhp/709rwtq on 93 octane, 801rwhp/735rwtq on race fuel, 10.1 @ 147.25mph 1/4 mile, 174.7mph Half Mile.
2016 Corvette Z51 M7 Magnuson Heartbeat 2300 supercharger, TSP LT headers, Pat G tuned, 667rwhp, 662rwtq, 191mph TX Mile.
2009.5 Pontiac G8 GT 6.0L, A6, AFR 230v2 heads. 506rwhp/442rwtq. 11.413 @ 121.29mph 1/4 mile, 168.7mph TX Mile
2000 Pewter Ram Air Trans Am M6 heads/cam 508 rwhp/445 rwtq SAE, 183.092 TX Mile
2022 Cadillac Escalade 6.2L A10 S&B CAI, Corsa catback.
2023 Corvette 3LT Z51 soon to be modified.
Custom LSX tuning in person or via email press here.
10-03-2008, 11:00 AM
#130
WTF is wrog with you people????
What if you are wrong and this guy needs a colder plug? next time when he has a little more timming out and its a little better a/f if the plugs are wrong its gona eat some ****.
Why wouldn't you tell him to error on the side of caution?
I would put some 7's or 8's in it, take 3 degrees out. get some good gas and make it threw to the 1/4 then work back up. Worse case my way it runs slow. worse case your way it eats his pistons!
As for the dyno expert in here..... Atv and I have over 200 runs on our own cars on dyno's ( mostly on Grannys dyno). We helped jeff dyno hundreds of cars. He might not want to admit it but its true.
But hey what do either of us know about nitrous. LOL
What if you are wrong and this guy needs a colder plug? next time when he has a little more timming out and its a little better a/f if the plugs are wrong its gona eat some ****.
Why wouldn't you tell him to error on the side of caution?
I would put some 7's or 8's in it, take 3 degrees out. get some good gas and make it threw to the 1/4 then work back up. Worse case my way it runs slow. worse case your way it eats his pistons!
As for the dyno expert in here..... Atv and I have over 200 runs on our own cars on dyno's ( mostly on Grannys dyno). We helped jeff dyno hundreds of cars. He might not want to admit it but its true.
But hey what do either of us know about nitrous. LOL
Last edited by ShiznityZ28; 10-04-2008 at 07:58 AM.
10-03-2008, 04:03 PM
#131
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WTF is wrog with you people????
What if you atre wrong and this guy needs a colder plug? next time when he has a little motre timming out and its a little better a/f if the plugs are wrong its gona eat some ****.
Why wouldn't you tell him to error on the side of caution?
I would put some 7's or 8's in it, take 3 degrees out. get some good gas and make it like to the 1/4 then work back up. Worse case my way it runs slow. worse ase your way it eats his pistons!
As for the dyno expert in here..... Atv and I have over 200 runs on our own cars on dyno's ( mostly on Grannys dyno). We helped jeff dyno hundreds of cars. He might not want to admit it but its true.
But hey what do either of us know about nitrous. LOL
What if you atre wrong and this guy needs a colder plug? next time when he has a little motre timming out and its a little better a/f if the plugs are wrong its gona eat some ****.
Why wouldn't you tell him to error on the side of caution?
I would put some 7's or 8's in it, take 3 degrees out. get some good gas and make it like to the 1/4 then work back up. Worse case my way it runs slow. worse ase your way it eats his pistons!
As for the dyno expert in here..... Atv and I have over 200 runs on our own cars on dyno's ( mostly on Grannys dyno). We helped jeff dyno hundreds of cars. He might not want to admit it but its true.
But hey what do either of us know about nitrous. LOL
i thought you ment go to a colder plug and pull more. and then keep going colder and less timing, never thought you ment work your way back up. duh
10-03-2008, 04:07 PM
#132
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Really, I feel sorry for this guy........
Boy I love guys who can type and spell that well, really turns me on. What really gets me all revved up is the lack of understanding of how the world works but CLAIMS that he does. Who wants to tell him that overlap and DCR are connected to different ends of the intake valve's travels?
Later guys I gotta get back to work on a real PhD.
how is it dumb???so you are saying a cam with more overlap doesnt increase DCR....which raises cylinder pressures???please elaborate on why every statementin this thread is wrong besides yours is wrong???do you even understand how the internal combustion engine functions....by my understanding you are saying an engine with a dcr of 8.5 would use the same plug as an engine with a dcr of 8.0.....on nitrous of course....
you need to do some research you are an idiot......
dcr
you need to do some research you are an idiot......
dcr
Later guys I gotta get back to work on a real PhD.
10-03-2008, 11:17 PM
#133
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Jessica, if that turned you on, you should read what he posted before he deleted most of it. After he did some teaching in this thread
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...522&highlight=
post 17 is awesome.
overlap cam experts LMAO
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...522&highlight=
post 17 is awesome.
overlap cam experts LMAO
10-04-2008, 01:01 AM
#134
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Im running a 255 intank, and 94 octane pump gas. Im not sure how to describe the tune, my wideband was reading 12.0 all the way up the rpm range when I sprayed it. What plugs are people running? I thought the tr6 was the coldest you wanted to go? Could I just put a bigger fuel jet in and better gas to remedy this problem, or would the timing still eat those plugs up?
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
The stoichometric ratio of gasoline and N20 is 7 to 1.
What is your power on the motor?
What are you commanding for fuel? 12.0 to 1 seems a little lean by the limited information in this thread.
If you are not commanding 12.0, then you have an airflow / jetting inaccuarcy with either the MAF and or MAP table(s) and or N20 jets.
Your commanded timing does not seem to be out of order if your airflow / jetting calculations are in order.
The best solution would be a razor sharp tune with a custom operating system that allows you to pull timing and add fuel on the fly. EFI Live in the hands of a competent tuner / shop can give you a max motor tune and with the push of a button safe N20 operation on the fly. No pulling over to swap tunes. Just maximum enjoyment of your hard earned effort.
10-04-2008, 08:03 AM
#135
The stoichometric ratio of gasoline and N20 is 7 to 1.
What is your power on the motor?
What are you commanding for fuel? 12.0 to 1 seems a little lean by the limited information in this thread.
If you are not commanding 12.0, then you have an airflow / jetting inaccuarcy with either the MAF and or MAP table(s) and or N20 jets.
Your commanded timing does not seem to be out of order if your airflow / jetting calculations are in order.
The best solution would be a razor sharp tune with a custom operating system that allows you to pull timing and add fuel on the fly. EFI Live in the hands of a competent tuner / shop can give you a max motor tune and with the push of a button safe N20 operation on the fly. No pulling over to swap tunes. Just maximum enjoyment of your hard earned effort.
What is your power on the motor?
What are you commanding for fuel? 12.0 to 1 seems a little lean by the limited information in this thread.
If you are not commanding 12.0, then you have an airflow / jetting inaccuarcy with either the MAF and or MAP table(s) and or N20 jets.
Your commanded timing does not seem to be out of order if your airflow / jetting calculations are in order.
The best solution would be a razor sharp tune with a custom operating system that allows you to pull timing and add fuel on the fly. EFI Live in the hands of a competent tuner / shop can give you a max motor tune and with the push of a button safe N20 operation on the fly. No pulling over to swap tunes. Just maximum enjoyment of your hard earned effort.
7.1 in a nitrous and gas only environment but for the avg guy here with a 550 fwhp car on a 150 shot. 12.0 is about right.
On the 400 shot on waynes car we run it 11.8-12.2. But you have to go by what the plugs tell you and what the car wants. Your 7.1 statement will confuse alot of guys here.
Even though it is correct we always have used a 9.1 it will get you close on the calculations for a start a/f. 