ok so i have some new head for my ls1 the prc's and i just pulled my stock head off and said to myself wow theres not much left to pull out if i want to do an engine swap. (6.0L) i was thinking well i had tought about building one this winter because i can get a block with heads for 400 which is fricken cheap. helps to know someone thats hard up for money lol. so what do u think should i just go for it and build a bad *** 408 or 427 or just put the heads cam lifters and pushrods in? i also noticed just a small amount of cylinder scoring so that made me want to do the swap more. its not horrible but u can feel it. let me know what u guys think about the swap or do u have a better swap i should do if i have access to the parts

 

I would put it back together & keep it running for the summer. If you're building a stroker with a different block, you can build it & have it ready before you pull you're running engine out.

 

if i got it tore down this far i might as well just do it i think. i have other cars to drive i dont car if this sit in the garage it only going to up the value not putting miles on. i only have 700 on this year anyway.

 

or another option would be a 383 stroker i guess

 

All depends on how fast you want to drive your car again. It does look tempting once you've pulled the heads though thats for sure.

Cheapest route is the 347 but since you already have the 6.0 block then the 383 and the 408 are going to cost the same as the internals are the same.(cept for bore size )
block prep should be the same although boring the block .030 over should cost a little bit more than just a cleaning it up .005.. but if those scores are too deep then you've wasted time/money trying to hone them out.

SO......... looking at all that I'd go 408 unless you really really dont want the extra 75#'s on the nose. All your LS1 stuff will swap over

 

i havent bought the block yet thats what im trying to decide befor i buy the block. i can build a 383 & a 396 from my stock block right? or just a 383? whats the biggest i can go with my ls1? (383 i bet) 408 & 427 is from the 6.0L right

 

383 would be a nice setup, but we do a 418 with the 6.0 as well but it would be a n/a build only.

So first I would decide if you plan to use n2o or not. If you are going tro spray the 4" stroke is your best bet (instead of going longer).

The 383 with the right heads would be a very nice setup. All comes down to money and how much you have to spend so I would set a budget and go from there.

 

6-7k and yes i want 2 spray. i need 2 keep in mind 2 save$$ if i need tran or rear end work and im hopen to only have 2 change gears to 410's

 

T t t

 

For spray I would go either 347 or 408 and you will need to save 2500 for a 9" and DS because you have a M6. Your tranny should hold up just fine for now.

 

427 408 and 402 are really common

 

Is that 6-7k with the rear, trans and clutch ?
If so then your looking at a 383


We can get you into a 408 short for about 4600 delivered and that does leave much for the rest of the build if 7k is the budget.

A 383 your looking at around 3300 which give you plenty of money left for the rear and other stuff. If you have a good engine/block you might as well use it. Unless you can sell it for 3-600.

Mamo has hit 540 with his 383 before so its not like you cant make decent power with the 83. I'd say 470-490 with good street manners on a decent set of heads and not even top of the line top end.

 

If I were you, I would put alot of thought into how you're going to use the car before making a large investment into the engine. How you will use it will play a huge factor on how much enjoyment you'll get out of it when it's complete. Is it s street terror or strictly a racecar? Will it do dual-duty and if so, how much street driving do you intend to do? These are questions you'll need to ask yourself before diving into a build like this. The more we know about your intentions, the better we can help you.

Also, (I'm not diggin on you Chris) but have you ever thought about just building the engine yourself? You could build your own shortblock assembly and save a ton of money for other things. A complete forged and balanced rotating assembly can be had for around 2000.00, plus a couple hundred for machine work in the block. If you have some mechanical ability, good tools and a garage you're nearly there. Plus, building the engine yourself is much more satisfying, at least in my opinion. You could really stretch out that 7k if you do alot of the things yourself.

Also, where are you located?

Mike

 

I'm going 2 have around $6,000 to do everything "right now" & I am going to uses it at the strip & drive it around town. I have other vehicles to drive so its not a huge deal if its not 2 street friendly. I'm located in fargo nd. all the work I plan on doing myself. I really want a bigger motor than a 383. I've got a mustang to beat down but its going 2 be reall hard to do that with my budget so I have to live with in reason. if I go with a 6L do I keep all my wiring harness & computer stuff. does it all plug right in from my old engine. I'm about half way done with the tare down now (i think) just tryin 2 figure out what the best way 2 pull it out is going 2 be. I think it will come out the top but not sure.

 

No dig taken at all Mikey , that's actually where I was going with the 383.

He can have the block machined locally. It wouldnt make sense for me to build him a 383 using his block having to ship it and all. I was throwing prices out so he can see what we sell them for and have some comparisons to go by.

I'd lik to compete for the rotating assembly as we have really good prices but I totally agree with you on the saving money.

 

I've taken out the engines from the top and from the bottom. Honestly, if you're going to be replacing the entire engine etc,,, taking it out the bottom is very easy to do. It all comes out as one unit. Just disconnect all the wiring, hoses, steering linkage, driveshaft, exhaust etc.. Then there's 6 bolts holding the Kmember to the chassis and unbolt the top of the front shocks/strut assembly and it practically falls out. Very easy and quick to do. My friend Bobby and I did his in about 4 hours start to finish. The only downfall to this method is that if you need to move the car afterward, you'll have to bolt up the kmember back on.

You can see some pics of the bottom removal that I helped with in this thread, post number seven. https://ls1tech.com/forums/northwest...lsx-alive.html

If you have a 6.0l block already, I'd do a forged 40xci with a 200-250 shot. I'd probably lean toward the smaller cubic inch displacement if you're hitting it with nitrous. That would allow extra cylinder thickness for the added cylinder pressure on the bottle and preserve ring sealing. That setup would have nice street manners and completely wail on the juice.

Mike

 

so I should buy a 6L block & punch it to a 408 instead of a 427 if I'm going 2 throw a 250 or 300 shot at it then?

 

I'm sorry, I thought you already had a 6.0l block to work with. What I meant was, if you already had that block, stay with as small of overbore as possible to maintain good cylinder wall integrity. The bigger you bore it out, the weaker the cylinder walls get. A stock 6.0 block is 4.00" bore, so with a 4" stroke that would equate to a 402 cubic inch. If you bored it out to a 4.030" with a 4" stroke would equate to a 408 cubic inch. If you intend to hit it with a good shot of nitrous, keep the bore size to a minimum.

There are advantages to a larger bore, like being able to use a larger valve size etc, but those advantages are best left to naturally aspirated engines unless you have a block that is strong enough to handle a large hit of the juice. If it were my money, I'd build a 402 with intentions of a 250 shot.

Since you'll need to purchase the block, here is a good thread that has alot of possible bore/stroke combinations: https://ls1tech.com/forums/advanced-...binations.html

Mike

 

thanks man ill check the thread out & yes im thinking of hitting it with a 250 or 300 shot that should move the f*cker lol. i think i am going to buy that block and do i need to use the stock heads from the 6.0 or buy different ones?

 

You "could" use the stock heads, but "The power is in the cylinder heads", as they always say. If you're looking for best bang for the buck, it's hard to overlook a set of L92 heads with a single plane type intake manifold, especially if you're gonna run nitrous. They flow well, and are dirt cheap in comparison to other stock ported type heads. Edelbrock just came out with a nice single plane intake for the L92 heads. I'd talk to some of the vendors on here to get a good idea of cam choice. They'll have plenty of options for the L92 heads with nitrous. Cam choice will ultimately depend on what heads/intake you choose.

Mike