Bent pushrod?
#21
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so its looking like im gonna need to take the heads off?? also, im gonna need to pull the cam out to find out what it is so that i can replace lifters and springs? This is starting to sound pretty expensive... I doubt i will be able to fix it for a few months at the $1500 its looking like i will have to spend according to you guys. its my dd, honestly i dont have the money to just throw at the car to replace parts that are working fine. as far as im concerned, i dont drive it hard, havent sprayed it yet, and besides the bent pushrods the engine seems to run fine. Im really starting to doubt that the car even has a built motor. i mean, who would port ls6 heads and pay for a custom solid cam and then put the stock fuel rails and coils back on? I think dude was full of ****. I got got, he prob only did cam, nitrous, tb, exhaust and googled a local corvette shop and said they did all the work.
so either way its not a fix i can do in one day if i do springs and lifters and need to measure everything and take the heads off and blah blah blah so im gonna take up actual shop space at that point.. smokinponcho, you ok with my car being there for a couple days once i get the funds together to fix it or will i need to be done and out in a day?
realistically guys, if the springs and lifters are in good shape, whats the downfall to just replacing the pushrods? what would make them fail faster than before i bent the pushrod or does having the bent pushrod mean they are more than likely damaged too?
Im going to go ahead and assume that its just a small cam and not a solid. i will risk it based on other parts used on build. honestly, i have seen salvages car run and i will take his word for it and go for the ls7's especially if they are good quality and cheaper.. I will not buy top of the line anything, just throwing that out there. I dont plan on keeping this motor past 100k miles regardless so im just looking to get another 20k out of it and 2 years, then im gonna go with a sc383 build or ls7 build.. right now, i need it to run like it was, i dont plan on racing every weekend or even every month. its my dd, I will upgrade a little but im not into name brand but I wont buy junk either.. i dont need to be the fastest.
thanks for all the advise and help so far. sorry if im being difficult but i have to be very careful how i spend money right now with my wife being prego and me wanting to keep the vette.. probably cheaper to buy a pos dd and store the vette till i can afford afr's.. might have to do that if I do end up having to replace everything..
so either way its not a fix i can do in one day if i do springs and lifters and need to measure everything and take the heads off and blah blah blah so im gonna take up actual shop space at that point.. smokinponcho, you ok with my car being there for a couple days once i get the funds together to fix it or will i need to be done and out in a day?
realistically guys, if the springs and lifters are in good shape, whats the downfall to just replacing the pushrods? what would make them fail faster than before i bent the pushrod or does having the bent pushrod mean they are more than likely damaged too?
Im going to go ahead and assume that its just a small cam and not a solid. i will risk it based on other parts used on build. honestly, i have seen salvages car run and i will take his word for it and go for the ls7's especially if they are good quality and cheaper.. I will not buy top of the line anything, just throwing that out there. I dont plan on keeping this motor past 100k miles regardless so im just looking to get another 20k out of it and 2 years, then im gonna go with a sc383 build or ls7 build.. right now, i need it to run like it was, i dont plan on racing every weekend or even every month. its my dd, I will upgrade a little but im not into name brand but I wont buy junk either.. i dont need to be the fastest.
thanks for all the advise and help so far. sorry if im being difficult but i have to be very careful how i spend money right now with my wife being prego and me wanting to keep the vette.. probably cheaper to buy a pos dd and store the vette till i can afford afr's.. might have to do that if I do end up having to replace everything..
They just "don't" bend on their own. A typical reason would be if the piston smacks the valve while its open, that in turn shoves the valve back up against the rocker arm and in turn it tries to shove the push rod back against the lifter and so on. Well obviously if the lifter is up and the cam lobe and the valve pushes back the weakest point is going to be the push rod so it bends. 99.9% of the time a push rod bends because of some mechanical interference, such as when a timing chain breaks and the engine continues to rotate a couple revs due to inertia, pistons come up and hit the open valves, bending valves and sometimes push rods.
Good to see some of you are having good luck with them. I know a couple local guys that have had them fail more than once running mild cams. It's hit or miss from what I have heard from local friends and guys online. Nobody is saying you have to spend top dollar on lifters. We are just simply passing along information and feedback.
I'm just saying that I have been using the LS7 lifters since 06 and have not had a single failure of any one of them that I have sold. **** happens and things break, especially in cars that are beat on. I don't care what kind of parts you use, things do break from time to time. I have seen $600 morels break, so even they are not fool proof. From what I have seen, the GM LS7 lifters have a proven track record for me. As I mentioned earlier I have several Z06 customers running their cars on the road course for 30 minutes at a time going as fast as they can, and to date have not had one failure other than the ones I mentioned and they weren't LS7 lifters.
Some have used the GM Cadillac race lifters, they fail as well. I know of two customers that replaced them with LS7 replacements. I used them in my engine and lost oil pressure on start up. Replaced the lifters with LS7 units and my oil pressure returned to normal. This happened in 07 after a head and cam swap in my personal Z06, tore my hair out trying to figure out where the oil pressure went.
On another note, if you think aftermarket rockers are the **** to use, don't count on it, I have three sets of yella terras on these track LS6 cars that has broke over the years. I tell the customers to stay away from them. Stock LS rockers are tough, I have never seen one break other than the 07 LS7 rockers spitting bearings out. Aside from four actual failures of these in LS7 engines only, those were the only GM rockers to have failed in my area that I know of.
If you want higher quality rockers step up to Crower or Jessel shaft rockers, however even those have broke. I don't even use trunnion kits, that was a hot seller when the issue with the LS7 rockers came about, I just replace them with new GM LS7 rockers. katech uses stock GM LS7 rockers in their track, and street attack engines all the time. If you were to buy a Katech track attack engine it would cost you $25K. Thats gotta tell you something if Katech is using GM rockers in their engines.
#22
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My pushrods cost less then 200$ if I remember correctly.. They were all custom due to the differnt lengths...you should be well under 1k if your rockers are good.
... Just hope it all comes out ok and it just be a pushrod and it's not that bad... When mine were bent it fluterd really bad at about 5k..but drive normal and sounded normal when just driving it..k let me know.
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so if its not a bent pushrod, what else would it be?
Every once and a while when i coast in nuetral off the hwy and slow it has a hard time catching the idle and drops to like 300rpm and then shoots back up and idles normal.. if i turn the ac on while driving and not at a stop, the idle will surge when stopped from 300rpm to 1200rpm. never died but sometimes it worries me.. i was thinking it just needed a new tune.. with the present cam it has a 900rpm idle, not much lope but enough for me.. just some info i thought might help.
im ready to get this torn down and figure ish out
Every once and a while when i coast in nuetral off the hwy and slow it has a hard time catching the idle and drops to like 300rpm and then shoots back up and idles normal.. if i turn the ac on while driving and not at a stop, the idle will surge when stopped from 300rpm to 1200rpm. never died but sometimes it worries me.. i was thinking it just needed a new tune.. with the present cam it has a 900rpm idle, not much lope but enough for me.. just some info i thought might help.
im ready to get this torn down and figure ish out
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just got a text from last owner.. he said he doesnt even know what a solid cam is. the shop just told him they changed the cam and ported the heads after the rebuild.. should be a roller cam then right?
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So we got to ripping into the vette today. Looks like the rocker arms are mushrooming some of the valve stems. Not sure If it was caused by improper pushrod length or something to do with it having nitrous or what. We did however find out he has hardened push rods at stock length and stock heads and an ls6 intake. Overall though, I would say it was a good day of bs'ing and wrenching though.
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dude, your the best! thank you for all your help so far brandon!
so im looing for some assembled heads but not too sure what im looking for. I want afr's but i cant afford them so they are out of the question..
the spark plug showed that they were running hot, gapped .062? I cant remember, gonna be looking into that later today when i get back from the river.
I have found a few sets of 241's, 243's and 799's.. but i dont know the difference between them and what I would need to change on them once i get them... will my bbk lt's bolt right up to them also? I will be putting the nitrous back on the car, maybe even going up to a 150 shot..
now if I pull the cam, how do i get the specs on it? should it be stamped somewhere on it? Then it seems that I will need to have custom length pushrods made (like tyler already said). will i also need different springs?
Soo, im looking into finding some heads that will come fully assembled fresh condition but if i need to switch springs then would i save money buying them bare?. I was looking at the comp cam gold roller rocker set just for fun, im not sure if i need to change rr's?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Comp-Cams-Ul...-/380664385231
heres some of the heads i found quick on ebay, any of them look like a good deal or fit?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111113970437...84.m1438.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290723245360...84.m1438.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271116803799...84.m1438.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/heads-alm-ls-1-799-castings-new-same-as-243-Z-06-CORVETTE-/200938348372?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec8dbdf54&vxp=mtr
so im looing for some assembled heads but not too sure what im looking for. I want afr's but i cant afford them so they are out of the question..
the spark plug showed that they were running hot, gapped .062? I cant remember, gonna be looking into that later today when i get back from the river.
I have found a few sets of 241's, 243's and 799's.. but i dont know the difference between them and what I would need to change on them once i get them... will my bbk lt's bolt right up to them also? I will be putting the nitrous back on the car, maybe even going up to a 150 shot..
now if I pull the cam, how do i get the specs on it? should it be stamped somewhere on it? Then it seems that I will need to have custom length pushrods made (like tyler already said). will i also need different springs?
Soo, im looking into finding some heads that will come fully assembled fresh condition but if i need to switch springs then would i save money buying them bare?. I was looking at the comp cam gold roller rocker set just for fun, im not sure if i need to change rr's?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Comp-Cams-Ul...-/380664385231
heres some of the heads i found quick on ebay, any of them look like a good deal or fit?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111113970437...84.m1438.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290723245360...84.m1438.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271116803799...84.m1438.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/heads-alm-ls-1-799-castings-new-same-as-243-Z-06-CORVETTE-/200938348372?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec8dbdf54&vxp=mtr
Last edited by dcam503; 07-07-2013 at 11:15 AM.
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The plugs are tr55 and had a gap of .062". I meant to text that to you just so you could have it on hand but it looks like you remembered it. I would personally go with a 243 or 799. I am kinda glad we found your noise being a valvetrain issue and nothing with the rotating assembly.
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yeah me too. I was getting pretty sick to my stomach till you noticed it.. Im just hoping that the pushrods caused it and theres nothing hidden once we get them off.. if i cant find any heads cheap and fast enough i might just buy new valves and springs and have some pushrods made and throw it all back together.
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So we got to ripping into the vette today. Looks like the rocker arms are mushrooming some of the valve stems. Not sure If it was caused by improper pushrod length or something to do with it having nitrous or what. We did however find out he has hardened push rods at stock length and stock heads and an ls6 intake. Overall though, I would say it was a good day of bs'ing and wrenching though.
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it was happening to both exhaust and intake but was more severe on the intake and driverside head. we we're thinking a few things, my aggressive cam needing different length pushrods and/or springs werent correct lift or both? im learning so sorry if im way off.. gonna try to get back over there in the next couple days to finish pulling heads and cam. i was told most companies stamp specs on back of cam.
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A VERY BASIC rundown is as follows;
Using a dial indicator on a mounting fixture....bolted to the head; Basically, you're wanting to measure the total travel of the valve (from closed, to open) to where the coils of the valve spring are compressed to their limit, then subtract ROUGHLY .060 (depending on max lift) as your target at full valve lift.
Again, this is a very GENERAL rundown....but if you're tighter than .050 at max lift, then it is something that needs to be more closely scrutinized.
Since your valves are mushrooming anyway, probably best to take the heads to a REPUTABLE machine shop...as they are obviously going to have to be gone through again. They can verify this measurement for you, and you can make a more educated assessment once you know for certain what the lobe lift/rocker ratio is.
Using a dial indicator on a mounting fixture....bolted to the head; Basically, you're wanting to measure the total travel of the valve (from closed, to open) to where the coils of the valve spring are compressed to their limit, then subtract ROUGHLY .060 (depending on max lift) as your target at full valve lift.
Again, this is a very GENERAL rundown....but if you're tighter than .050 at max lift, then it is something that needs to be more closely scrutinized.
Since your valves are mushrooming anyway, probably best to take the heads to a REPUTABLE machine shop...as they are obviously going to have to be gone through again. They can verify this measurement for you, and you can make a more educated assessment once you know for certain what the lobe lift/rocker ratio is.
Last edited by salemetro; 07-08-2013 at 04:09 PM.
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thanks for the run down, im actually not planning on using the same heads, springs, rods or lifters so should i still check that or find the cam specs and get springs, valves and rods that are compatible for the cam? im looking for 243's or 799's right now, hopefully some fresh rebuilt and assembled.. once i get the cam out, i should be able to see the specs stamped on it, then i figured i would be able to just buy springs and rods that will work with it..
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Being that this is such a screwed-up occurrence, I'd want to get to the bottom of the issue....just to make sure to avoid it next time. Nothing worse than having to go back....yet again...to get it right. Then again, you could just make damned sure (as you should anyway) that the entire valve train is set up correctly this time. Personally, I'm the curious type, so I like to KNOW what caused the issue to begin with.
Last edited by salemetro; 07-08-2013 at 06:15 PM.