Ok what else do I need?????????
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From: Yelm, Wa
Ok what else do I need????????? Ok Other then the parts I know I am going to need.
Bearings (all of them)
Crank shaft
Connecting rods
pistons
Pushrods
& full engine gasket set
What else Am I going to need?
other then heads Ellis lol
Bearings (all of them)
Crank shaft
Connecting rods
pistons
Pushrods
& full engine gasket set
What else Am I going to need?
other then heads Ellis lol Rings, new head bolts, new harmonic balancer bolt, and new rod bolts,
Off the top of my head, there is more stuff, why do you need new pushrods? did yo ubend them? if so did you hurt your old lifters?
What exactly are you trying to do?
Off the top of my head, there is more stuff, why do you need new pushrods? did yo ubend them? if so did you hurt your old lifters?
What exactly are you trying to do?
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From: Yelm, Wa
The shop spun a main bearing. So we know we have to do the bottom end. At the same time we are going to freshen up the rest of the engine because it leaks oil & other stuff.
We are also going to have the heads rebuilt & the block cleaned before starting the rebuild.
We are also going to have the heads rebuilt & the block cleaned before starting the rebuild.
You SHOULD AT LEAST buy a good Used LT1! For a street rod stock with an small block I see no reason NOT to do that at least. You can find complete setups for 1200 bucks which is probably cheaper then the rebuild. Add a T56 in there and that is trick 3rd gen. I've been thinking about getting one for a DD!!! Truck is a little more versital.
If your going to do the rebuild just get a summit rebuild kit they have decent deals on mild bare necessities to Forged setups with everything....
Or there is that powerplace or whatever that has kits CHEAP look in HotRod or similar they have ads speciallize in the "budget" 383 or whatever....
If your going to do the rebuild just get a summit rebuild kit they have decent deals on mild bare necessities to Forged setups with everything....
Or there is that powerplace or whatever that has kits CHEAP look in HotRod or similar they have ads speciallize in the "budget" 383 or whatever....
might be able to get the crank turned and the rods resized, depending on how bad you spun the bearing. i'd go with bobby's suggestion of using a summit kit. i've done a few motors with them and they are pretty complete. then use the money you save from reusing your rods and crank for a big cam and a matching stall
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From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
I would buy a Hard core 427 SBC and be done with it. If you are tring to come in on a budget it is hard to beat some of the crate motors out there. A Summit 383 Short block can be had ready to go for under $3,000.
Some of your best options are going to be GM motors. Just Quick look in Summit shows a ZZ4 can be had for $3,886. Slap you EFI system on it and you should have a screamer that is good for nice updates in the future. The only factor to be careful of is what intake bolt pattern you have.
As far as putting a LT1 in I would not waste my time. every thing is a PITA and you can make as much and more with a SBC GEN-I with the right heads.
The LS serise is the new main stay but from where you are at I could not see jumping in. Cost over all will be twice as high and many parts will be custom. IF you had a 4th gen and were in your spot my answer would be different. With a 3rd Gen you just have more options
From where you are I see you spending right at $4,000 for the budget install. Machine work is going to be around $2,000 If you want 4 bolt caps. The Machine work and assembly on the 396 I just had built was $2,200 with bearings, rings,gaskets, re-balance, and assembly. This did not include the $2,500 for the Head and intake work or all the new valve train parts.
Then again you could try and find a good Wrecking yard motor.....Good luck on that and they will still want more then you think
IF "I" were in your position I would figure out what I wanted to do with the car and buy a GM crate motor to match. There is a large dealer in Oregon (Sallee) that stocks most if not all GM Crate motors and will even modify them to your liking if you wish.
Good luck!
http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Crat...rformance.html
Some of your best options are going to be GM motors. Just Quick look in Summit shows a ZZ4 can be had for $3,886. Slap you EFI system on it and you should have a screamer that is good for nice updates in the future. The only factor to be careful of is what intake bolt pattern you have.
As far as putting a LT1 in I would not waste my time. every thing is a PITA and you can make as much and more with a SBC GEN-I with the right heads.
The LS serise is the new main stay but from where you are at I could not see jumping in. Cost over all will be twice as high and many parts will be custom. IF you had a 4th gen and were in your spot my answer would be different. With a 3rd Gen you just have more options
From where you are I see you spending right at $4,000 for the budget install. Machine work is going to be around $2,000 If you want 4 bolt caps. The Machine work and assembly on the 396 I just had built was $2,200 with bearings, rings,gaskets, re-balance, and assembly. This did not include the $2,500 for the Head and intake work or all the new valve train parts.
Then again you could try and find a good Wrecking yard motor.....Good luck on that and they will still want more then you think
IF "I" were in your position I would figure out what I wanted to do with the car and buy a GM crate motor to match. There is a large dealer in Oregon (Sallee) that stocks most if not all GM Crate motors and will even modify them to your liking if you wish.
Good luck!
http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Crat...rformance.html
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From: Yelm, Wa
Thanks guys, Heres a few things, We have little or no money now that we had to pay so much to get the car from Bloods.So buying a crate motor is out of the question.
The stock motor was putting out 201.7HP at the rear wheels when this went.(that means with the right set up the car would out run My husbands LT1 all day long lol)
I want this car to go back the way it ran before we started doing the engine mods but with the mods in it (if that sounds right)
The Heads, the Crank & the Block are all going down to a local place to get cleaned & the heads get rebuilt.
Oh before my car gets a new motor my husbands 67 C-10 is going a newer one with a t56. & My husband has to deal with an LT1 already & doesnt what to deal with another one.
The stock motor was putting out 201.7HP at the rear wheels when this went.(that means with the right set up the car would out run My husbands LT1 all day long lol)
I want this car to go back the way it ran before we started doing the engine mods but with the mods in it (if that sounds right)
The Heads, the Crank & the Block are all going down to a local place to get cleaned & the heads get rebuilt.
Oh before my car gets a new motor my husbands 67 C-10 is going a newer one with a t56. & My husband has to deal with an LT1 already & doesnt what to deal with another one.
Then just get a rering kit from summit, reuse your pistons and rods (assuming you don't need any boring. Until you get the block back from the machine shop its hard to know what you need.
But you can get a summit rebuild kit pretty damn cheap....shoot there are local compaines that sell prebuilt shortblocks cheap. Isn't RAM engines up there? I bet you could get a rebuilt shortblock from a machine\engine shop for 450-650...
This is a bad forum to ask advise on, I'm thinking LT1 bang for buck reliability and driveability. Ellis is thinking all out bad *** street machine...lets put it this way if I spun a bearing in my Vette the shortblock would not be stock when it went back in, even if I had to take out a second mortgage
**** Ellis's motor got tired and he's been building a new one for two years!
But you can get a summit rebuild kit pretty damn cheap....shoot there are local compaines that sell prebuilt shortblocks cheap. Isn't RAM engines up there? I bet you could get a rebuilt shortblock from a machine\engine shop for 450-650...
This is a bad forum to ask advise on, I'm thinking LT1 bang for buck reliability and driveability. Ellis is thinking all out bad *** street machine...lets put it this way if I spun a bearing in my Vette the shortblock would not be stock when it went back in, even if I had to take out a second mortgage
**** Ellis's motor got tired and he's been building a new one for two years! Thread Starter
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From: Yelm, Wa
Originally Posted by 93TAWicked1
Then just get a rering kit from summit, reuse your pistons and rods (assuming you don't need any boring. Until you get the block back from the machine shop its hard to know what you need.
But you can get a summit rebuild kit pretty damn cheap....shoot there are local compaines that sell prebuilt shortblocks cheap. Isn't RAM engines up there? I bet you could get a rebuilt shortblock from a machine\engine shop for 450-650...
This is a bad forum to ask advise on, I'm thinking LT1 bang for buck reliability and driveability. Ellis is thinking all out bad *** street machine...lets put it this way if I spun a bearing in my Vette the shortblock would not be stock when it went back in, even if I had to take out a second mortgage **** Ellis's motor got tired and he's been building a new one for two years!
But you can get a summit rebuild kit pretty damn cheap....shoot there are local compaines that sell prebuilt shortblocks cheap. Isn't RAM engines up there? I bet you could get a rebuilt shortblock from a machine\engine shop for 450-650...
This is a bad forum to ask advise on, I'm thinking LT1 bang for buck reliability and driveability. Ellis is thinking all out bad *** street machine...lets put it this way if I spun a bearing in my Vette the shortblock would not be stock when it went back in, even if I had to take out a second mortgage
**** Ellis's motor got tired and he's been building a new one for two years!Now my husband is talking about getting a 383 Crate motor (THANKS GUYS).
Still I will NOT put a roll gage in my car aint no way. The car is a daily driver & goes to the horse farm with me during the summer months. He is already not going to put the AC back in the car
man Thank god I dont take the car to reno Joined: Nov 2001
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From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
Actually I posted some decent options A motor with that many miles is going to need a bore and once all that starts adding up a crate motor usually wins. heck I got a crate motor in my Cab! GM Goodwrench motor with under 10K miles. Picked it up in a car for $100! They list for $1,200 new and this one was running in a car
YES the 427 would be expensive but still cheaper then building one. I have priced MANY options this year. The ONLY reason I still have a LT1 is it was the cheapest option at the moment. a forged LT1 is still going to run me $3,000 or so by the time it is in the car.
I am still about $7,000 away from the 427...and I already have the top end 
A motor with that many miles is going to need a bore and once all that starts adding up a crate motor usually wins. heck I got a crate motor in my Cab! GM Goodwrench motor with under 10K miles. Picked it up in a car for $100! They list for $1,200 new and this one was running in a car YES the 427 would be expensive but still cheaper then building one. I have priced MANY options this year. The ONLY reason I still have a LT1 is it was the cheapest option at the moment. a forged LT1 is still going to run me $3,000 or so by the time it is in the car.
I am still about $7,000 away from the 427
...and I already have the top end Thread Starter
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From: Yelm, Wa
THanks guys for the ideas, He priced out a couple Crate motors & Its looking more & More like thats going to happen.
The car had a 138k miles on the engine when this all went down & still ran mid 14s.
Even running a 14.66 Stock.
Sorry guys for doing this but the last 20days have been stressfull for me not having my car to drive & it went worse when I got the phone call on my birthday (yesterday) telling me a bearing spun. 
. I mean I broke down in to tears after I got the phone call. 
The engine is all but out, he has only a few more things to unbolt & then we take it out, so it should be out tomorrow.
The car had a 138k miles on the engine when this all went down & still ran mid 14s.
Even running a 14.66 Stock.Sorry guys for doing this but the last 20days have been stressfull for me not having my car to drive & it went worse when I got the phone call on my birthday (yesterday) telling me a bearing spun.
. I mean I broke down in to tears after I got the phone call. The engine is all but out, he has only a few more things to unbolt & then we take it out, so it should be out tomorrow.
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From: Yelm, Wa
Well part of the Hard part is done, Engine & tranny are both out of the car. Since my husband & I dont know what we were doing we did run in to some problems *like the drivers side header was getting stuck* we got it off & the engine slid out right purtty. Still have to find a place to get the long bolts so we can slap that big boy on the engine stand.
ellis would ya give Dan a price if you come out today on rebuilding a badass 700R4 for us please??????????? 
ellis would ya give Dan a price if you come out today on rebuilding a badass 700R4 for us please???????????