Morrison Roll Cage
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From: Marysville, WA
Morrison Roll Cage I've been corresponding with Don @ ArtMorrison.com and they have an NHRA legal 8 pt mild steel weld-in roll bar for our cars for $195 (+ 90 more for 2 swing out bars, or 390 for chromoly). And if I wanted a cage (windshield hoop) it would be 260. I think I'll place my order soon. Now all I need to do is find a place to get it powder coated.
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From: Kent WA
Does that include the jig notching? If so, that is a damn good deal... I'd really like a 5 point, though, since that is the minimum for NHRA legal and I don't have to inconvenience anyone that rides in the car with me on the street.
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From: norfolk va
Mark, that is a good deal, on the 8 point. I think it would be a good idea for you to go ahead and get one. And i would get the swing out door bars too, i wish i would have done them on my cage, i still might.
How close does it fit the body lines? If you need a hand putting it in let me know.
How close does it fit the body lines? If you need a hand putting it in let me know.
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From: Bellingham/Edmonds, WA
Mark you may also want to check out S&W roll bars. They are the ones that Spohn sells I am 99% sure. www.swracecars.com There was a group purchase on these over on cz28 a few months ago. $125 + $30 per side for swing out doors. Not sure if it ever went through but it is something to look into:
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=300530
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=300530
Don't get the Morrison Swingouts. Get the ones that Ellis and Jim bought. I think they were alston chassisworks swing outs that they installed on the morrison cage. The Morrison swingout SUCKS! It is a weak design and has too much pipe on the floor when the door bars are out. The other design has a small bump on the floor and is very rigid with the door bar installed.
Cory
Cory
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From: Marysville, WA
Not sure if that includes jig notching Jason1.
These Morrisons come highly recommended Eric.
I'll let you know if I need help Jason2.
And thanks for the heads up Cory!
These Morrisons come highly recommended Eric.
I'll let you know if I need help Jason2.
And thanks for the heads up Cory!
I'm sure you all know this, but its not the bent pipe that comparitively matters/costs...
It's the install.
If you know a *good, reliable, and reasonably priced* chassis welder, please by all means let us all know.
It's the install.
If you know a *good, reliable, and reasonably priced* chassis welder, please by all means let us all know.
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Morrison bars are nice, they do not come jig notched. It is all about the install. The morrison stuff is all in the "kit"form. all the bars are made long so that the installer has plenty to work with.
Ryan
Ryan
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Addict
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From: Bellingham/Edmonds, WA
So what is the typical cost of a good roll bar installation? I'm talking if the whole car was stripped and brought to wherever the install was going to take place with everything out except for the driver's seat. Anybody have a ballpark estimate for this one?
Ive spent 300 on Chrome-moly roll bar, and 700 on install/powdercoat, but the car wasnt stripped. Years back, I stripped a 97 TA and a fellow installed a bar for $300. It was a good deal because he did a fantastic job building the boxes up so that the bar was a *high* as possible. I hate looking in the rear-view mirror and seeing the roll-bar.
Install prices will vary considerably. Great installers are rare enough in this part of the world that for the most part you just have to pay whatever the guy is asking. Its good to find out what that will be prior to buying the bar.
Install prices will vary considerably. Great installers are rare enough in this part of the world that for the most part you just have to pay whatever the guy is asking. Its good to find out what that will be prior to buying the bar.
Also, a roll bar should be heavily considered in the first place in a car that spends alot of time on the street. You have to pad the roll bar alot, and its still a serious head-injury risk in an accident. Roll bars work well on race tracks when the driver/passenger is wearing a helmet and is harnessed in a proper seat. They can become seriously dangerous in a street collision when a unhelmeted driver/passenger is wearing a normal seatbelt. An un-padded rollbar is even more dangerous.
Depending on your insurance company... if they see a rollbar... you are likely to get cancelled, and in some cases they may rule a claim denied.
You can now go 11.50 without a rollbar. In my opinion, you either have a 11.50+ daily driver, or a <11.50 race car/track car.
Depending on your insurance company... if they see a rollbar... you are likely to get cancelled, and in some cases they may rule a claim denied.
You can now go 11.50 without a rollbar. In my opinion, you either have a 11.50+ daily driver, or a <11.50 race car/track car.
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From: Kent WA
Originally Posted by Visceral
Also, a roll bar should be heavily considered in the first place in a car that spends alot of time on the street. You have to pad the roll bar alot, and its still a serious head-injury risk in an accident. Roll bars work well on race tracks when the driver/passenger is wearing a helmet and is harnessed in a proper seat. They can become seriously dangerous in a street collision when a unhelmeted driver/passenger is wearing a normal seatbelt. An un-padded rollbar is even more dangerous.
Depending on your insurance company... if they see a rollbar... you are likely to get cancelled, and in some cases they may rule a claim denied.
You can now go 11.50 without a rollbar. In my opinion, you either have a 11.50+ daily driver, or a <11.50 race car/track car.
Depending on your insurance company... if they see a rollbar... you are likely to get cancelled, and in some cases they may rule a claim denied.
You can now go 11.50 without a rollbar. In my opinion, you either have a 11.50+ daily driver, or a <11.50 race car/track car.
I certainly can't afford to have my insurance cancelled, nor can I afford to have a claim declined... I also don't want to have my wife or someone else smack their head on the roll bar in a collision and get hurt because of it... I don't really care about me, I'll take that risk. But it something else to ask another person to take that same risk...
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From: Marysville, WA
Good points! I do have someone in mind that has installed Morrisons before. He volunteered to do it, and knows about the cut to fit part. And his car looks very good & the hoop is right up against the headliner so hitting it would be unlikely.
If I wasn't running an open road race this year, I likely would not have one installed, since I won't hit 11.5. But this all does make me think more about the bolt-in Wolfes....
If I wasn't running an open road race this year, I likely would not have one installed, since I won't hit 11.5. But this all does make me think more about the bolt-in Wolfes....
Mark,
One thing to keep in mind if you ever plan on running in the ORR events with a 165mph tech speed. Some of the cages that are NHRA legal ARE NOT legal for ORR. Just make sure you check the rules prior to purchase.
One thing to keep in mind if you ever plan on running in the ORR events with a 165mph tech speed. Some of the cages that are NHRA legal ARE NOT legal for ORR. Just make sure you check the rules prior to purchase.
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From: Marysville, WA
Yet another good point Boyce. At this time I only plan to run in the GT class, & cages are optional there. Tho I could end up in the GS class at some point where they are required. And I see ORR suggests using mild steel because of the difficulty welding chromoly.
Both Morrison & Wolfe are 1.75x.134" tubing, which meets the requirement.
Both Morrison & Wolfe are 1.75x.134" tubing, which meets the requirement.
